LiveOak

I read those posts. The 2000 - 2002 24V engines require a different fuel heater element and thermostat. I called Hoeslie Diesel and they are ordering some for me. They are $50 each but I wanted to shop around and find out what prices are and who carries them. Nothing so far. :biggrin:

I am trying to find an OEM replacement kit for the fuel heater element on the fuel filter cannister for my and my wife's truck. I am getting reading that these are getting very difficult to get and are no longer in production??? Is this true??? :confused: Anyone know where they can be purchased? I understand they are a Cummins Filtration item and the part number is: 3928013-S Can anyone verify this or provide the correct part number? Thanks.

I'm a Celox man myself.

You could use it on this valve adjustment and sell it to someone else who is going to do theirs.

I would suggest plugging in the block heater a few hours prior to use or plug the block heater into a timer to pre-heat the engine. Then the grid heaters won't come on or be needed for initial cold starts. This is what I do on both of our trucks. It saves many years of battery life as well as wear and tare on your alternator. The engine is MUCH happier starting up on an initial cold start after being plugged in too. :thumbsup:

I have the BF Goodrich 295/75R-16 Trail TA Ko tires I purchase at Walmart and got their road hazard warranty on. They have been absolutely FANTASTIC tires. Easy to balance, ride VERY quiet just like OEM tires, bumped up the fuel mpgs a bit, and give great off road performance and pretty decent in mud but not great. They fit on the truck just fine BUT will rub the lower axle track bar just a bit on very sharp turns. They look great on the truck and give very good longevity compared to the last Walmart cheapie Liberator tires. :thumbsup:

My batteries in the 2002 are the OEM original batteries when I bought the truck new. I recently replaced the batteries in the wife's truck with the Walmart batteries. They are about the best deal going around my area. Just be sure to pick out the batteries with the most recent production date off of the rack.

So does that mean we can start posting porn and our favorite nuddie pics???

I get an ugly page that says I am not allowed to access this page when I click on the link. Do we need secret encoder rings to get in???

If you are feeling all by the book and don't mind spending a few bucks. http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=TOOL_3824591

My suspicion is that the VP-44 is dead and this may be the reason why the ECM is not delivering proper voltage to the lift pump. Wow! After reading your truck profile, I am amazed that the VP-44 lasted as long as it did. The OEM lift pump is NOT up to much more than stock application and even then barely capable. The P0216 code is not going to reset. http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/injectionpumpfailures.html P0216 = Fuel Injection Pump Timing Failure You are VERY likely going to have to replace the injection pump. It may run for a long time in this condition with degraded and irradic performance but eventually it will fail altogether and leave you stranded. With mods such as what you have installed, you need the Airdog or FASS pump and as already mentioned the Vulcan 1/2 big line kit. The stock OEM Carter pumps are junk. The Airtex pumps are substantially better, especially if they are relocated to the frame below the tank but they are not up to any type of major mod or boxes. If the engine will run now and does not sound like it will, you may be able to squeeze a bit more life out of the crippled VP-44 if you install an Airdog or FASS. Once these pumps start to go, they typically gradually get worse until they crap out altogether. I would suggest you still verify the system voltage coming from your batteries. One of both of the batteries may be weak or bad. This could draw the voltage down far below specified. In addition to this, the heater grids cycle below about 60 degrees on ignition activation and will draw the system voltage down even worse. This may be a cause for such low voltage to your lift pump as well. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

I believe Big Brother has legislated the 3.5 gallon flushers out of the market. You might try looking for some older style toilets from a house being renovated or torn down. The toilets in my house flush maybe a gallon or so but I have learned that if you hold the flush handle down during the entire flush and let the entire tank drain into the flush, this is enough to push those stubborn "spuds" to their destination. I had the same problem as you until I started flushing in this manner. You might give it a try and see if it works for you.

Your local diesel shop is uninformed or perhaps blowin' some smoke up your tail gate. http://www.pdrdiesel.com/products/Bosch_275_RV_40HP_Injectors_1998_5_02_Dodge_Cummins-949-148.html

Some bigger injectors and either a Smarty or an Edge Comp. The setup on my truck makes enough power to easily slip the stock clutch. You should add a South Bend clutch to your list. Eventually I will install one in mine. For now, I only have about 64,000 miles on my truck and I am NOT gonna replace a perfectly good clutch just yet. I just have to be real easy on the power when pulling a load or carrying any amount of weight. Running empty, the clutch holds good.

Think of it as free undercarriage rust and corrosion protection and prevention. :O)

What pump did you put on? What???????? No pictures or video???????? :nono I know the feeliing......sometimes it just comes down to gitRdone and working up the gumption to make it happen. LOL Glad everything turned out well and no dropped injector pump shaft keys. :thumbsup

I think they are the way to go in my opinion. The draw straw can be installed in the OEM fuel pickup/sending unit assembly but some surgery is required.

P1693 = DTC Detected In ECM Or PCM P0122 = Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Signal Voltage Too Low It would appear the APPS is out of calibration or gone bad. You my luck out and do a recalibaration on it and it this eliminates the miss. If the recal. does not work. You may have to replace the APPS. I suspect the miss may be due to a bad spot on the APPS potentiometer. You might try working the accelerator pedal all the way done and up (similar to pumping the gas pedal on a big gasser engine during a cold start. This may help clean up the conneciton on the APPS potentimeter. It is not a fix but may help eliminate the miss for awhile until the bad connection recurrs. Replacing the APPS may be the final solution. Did you replace the APPS with a new or used part? You may have a gotten a bad APPS. 21.5 psi is borderline too high. I suspect the fuel return valve in the IP that vents excess fuel back the tank may be sticking. The fuel pressure I seriously doubt is the miss problem.

Dave, I strongly recommend you get rid of all of the banjo fittings. The are obsolete, a pain in the butt, and don't flow anywhere near the amount AN fittings will. It is also MUCH easier to tap into the fuel line for gauge pressure. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-S ... ps9804.htm You can also call and ask Eric to send you just the fittings/items that you need instead of the entire pump relocation kit.

The gauge pod mount that goes over the steering column is way easy to install compared to the A pillar mount. A friend and I installed the steering column mount for the fuel pressure gauge in my wife's truck and it was real easy running the lines and hooking up the fuel isolator. Her truck is pretty much stock so that is all she needed. We install the 3 gauge A pillar mount in my truck and it was a lot more work routing the lines and mounting the gauge mount.

Hey Mike, I realize this is a bit of an old post but I have about 35 gallons of waste motor oil and am wonder what if any new information has been brought out on the subject of burning the WMO in diesel fuel. If there is a safe and user friendly way to filter and burn it, I would be very interested in what others are doing to accomplish this. For guys like me with just 2 cummins diesels that are not used for commercial operation, the Cummins Sentinal would not be cost effective.

Try looking here: http://www.vulcanperformance.com/category-s/131.htm I have never used an electric fuel gauge before so I really cannot comment. I have the ISSPRO fuel pressure gauge routed thought a fuel pressure isolator in to the cab gauge cluster on the A pillar.

P0370 = Fuel Injection Pump Speed/Position Sensor Signal LostYou might try cleaning up the cannon plug on both sides with some cannon plug cleaner or CRC brake cleaner and ensure all the pins are straight. Some silcone dielectric grease may help ensure a good sealed connection. If this does not fix the problem, you may be looking at a bad injection pump.

In addition to what has been mentioned above, I would suggest adding a Mag-Hytec Double Deep #727-DD transmission oil pan and add the largest fan cooled second auxiliary transmission oil cooler in line with what you have on the system currently. http://www.mag-hytec.com/store/index.ph ... c424c21f97 You will also need a trans. filter with a deeper pickup neck on it. http://www.mag-hytec.com/store/index.ph ... c424c21f97 I would also add the Mag-Hytec differential covers which will double your differential oil capacity in addition to the cooling fin's added cooling on the aluminum covers. They look REAL nice too. http://www.mag-hytec.com/store/index.ph ... c424c21f97 http://www.mag-hytec.com/store/index.ph ... c424c21f97 They will make a HUGE difference in the operating temps of your axles and transmission. Be sure to verify which Dana axle you have so you get the correct diff. cover.

Same here. I installed the Vulcan 1/2 Big Line kit to include 1/2 inch draw straw up to the OEM filter cannist and a 1/2 Big line from the cannister the IP. Works like a champ. Can't hardly get the fuel pressure gauge to budge under full throttle.