wil440

That needs a little more clarification to be fair, The WT mod relocates what the WT mod relocates, this is not all grounds and someone reading this could think WT done.... I'm good..... not so, there are more and depending on the problem as to where one needs to be looking. The WT mod does take care of some very poor Dodge electrical design connected to very important systems but 12 years parked anything could be corroded

Most vehicles here in the UK are manuals...... BUT when I was looking for a Ram and the first one was in 2004 I could only afford a 3500 4x4 5.9 Gas auto, 2nd one 3 or 4 years ago, managed a diesel 2500 4x4 auto but the same truck manual here is either a lot of $$$ or 2wd. Nothing to do with sissies or snowflakes..... come down to cost and availability and one other thing...... most people here buy American vehicles as a hobby and the perception is auto so that's what gets imported, yes I imported my 3500 myself but couldn't stretch to a manual at the time and if truth be told I probably couldn't now

And that is why being here is worth it..... who would have thought Dodge weighted the centre seat latch to stop it flopping forward in heavy braking, should have just used a normal hinge and spent the $$$ on wiring/electrics, but hey a glued joint isn't going to catapult your kid into the middle heater vent

Good luck with the truck you came to the right place to get it all sorted out As @Dieselfuture says... WT mod, check alternator for noise Have you a scanner that can see live data or borrow one, check data on when running ok against when not starting, is there any fault codes.... preferrably scanned As the truck has sat for so long I'd be checking every ground on it certainly if sat outside, there is 3 grounds at and below the drivers battery, more than likely nothing to do with your problem but worth making good, I had a wiper/ turn signal problem a month or so ago, signal left and the wipers came on and stayed on until the turn was cancelled, I actually removed the holding nut and checked it out on the back of someone on here (thanks) and it looked ok so bolted it back up, after checking everything else I went back to that ground G100 in the schematic and dug into it, one wire in the middle of the bunch down to ONE strand and urinal blue corrosion all around it in the middle of the bunch. Also do the PCM charge fuse that @Mopar1973Man figured out They are great trucks but very electrically challenged, I don't even lift the hood (bonnet here in the UK) in the rain rather unfortunate really as we do get a lot of rain

sorry all I see there is a snake trying to eat a rabbit ear

I assume that's his reply ? Does he not realise you need to replace a factory fob ? I've never seen a box under there with a button on it I wonder if he's talking about aftermarket stuff that he's seen fitted to a truck with the base CTM to give it power locks ? and possibly an alarm Come to think of it my keyring for my truck has a unknown fob on it and I think there might be an aftermarket alarm or something on my truck, when I turn it off there are a couple of chirps that come from somewhere, i've never found a box or any wires anywhere but my 3500 does not chirp when that's turned off. I have never operated the unknown fob, it is not Dodge that's for sure. I use my keys every single day and only just remembered there is another fob on there

Valet button ! and what would that be for I wonder, I didn't find any buttons on mine

There were no buttons on my module as I remember and I'd have thought if it was on the module there would be some reference on where to look, I wonder if he means the panic button on the remote

I wasn't ripping your suggestion to peices I assumed someone had already swapped to the later and was sort of talking out loud about the dash warning on the 98.5 and hopefully someone was going to chime in (squse the pun) oh yeah you just ~~~+++*** to fix that. You are right though it is a pants system and needs the bin, I for one really don't need a tiny little box deciding if my truck goes turtle I'm trussed and hung up like a dead cow, although with me being in the UK a project to figure it out is a no no as I have zero access to parts except from the USA and shipping is that expensive I'd need to know 100% the parts would work and swapping in seats is a no chance. Mine are working as they should at the moment and I have the same deal in my 3500 but I would take a 98.5 left and a right belt retractor if anyone knows of any for sale Sorry Hi jack over

IIRC the light on the dash for a 98.5 is a warning that there is a problem not that the belt is actually buckled or not, I never fasten my belt and there is no light to tell me or chimes for that matter. I also can't remember whether my belt locked when I had the problem....... poor memory or what !

So does the later belt retractor fit the seat ? and what happens to the light on the dash as any warning lights on the dash here is a straight MOT fail

what's it shift like into all gears from a stop ? If it is clutch related which it could well be I'd expect certainly 1st to be a problem and all gears ought to not feel right, thing is though once a gear is got (stopped) you may well find it will actually go into all the others a little better so skews the test, me I'd be testing all gears sort of seperate, as in test 1st, do something with it and then test 2nd tomorrow and so on Is there anything in the oil ? as in metal flake, is it time for an oil change ? Is the rear crank seal leaking (this can swell clutch material, usually slips though) Also as Mike says if the slave is leaking...... if it's going onto clutch this could cause drag have you tried double clutching ?? which is pump pedal and grab your problem gear/gears Shame there is no inspection plate/bung/bolt hole

Don't forget brake/clutch fluid will not cause or encourage rust really and if pumping the pedal and then going for the gear straight away with the pedal STILL down after the last pump then you're pretty safe to say hydraulics are ok,, only other test I could think of for hyds is driving and do the same thing, couple of quick pumps and then shift maybe another test is drain the box and fill with something thicker, this may change how the syncros grab but just a test, drain original oil out and save it if it's ok, I only say this as I have lots of different oils around and I was a Caterpillar field service engineer until a couple of years ago...... test, test, check, check and again and again big deal on first fix every time, sorry but it's engrained

I really don't see the point throwing a master cyl and slave cyl on until proven thats the problem hence pumping the clutch up to test, if it does pump up then consider a master and slave, if it doesn't make the slightest difference then it's something else As tractorman said it could be the pilot bearing, also bad syncros or even worn bearings or a bad dragging clutch I don't have a manual truck but I've built enough 12 and 16 speed Gardner, Fuller and Volvo boxes

I had a problem with the drivers side on my truck 98.5. Seatbelt light would not go off IIRC. Well here that is a MOT safety check fail. I replaced the whole peice in the seat back, easy to do as the seatback cover is not too bad to get off, problem was actually finding one, luckily a member on here pulled one from a yard and shipped it to me here in the UK which I was most grateful for, I've had a ebay search going since for the same part and no luck. I did get quite into it to try and figure out the problem but I can't now remember much of how it all works, what I do remember is it is all a bit mickey mouse and not up to a great deal, something in mine had broken but can't remember what

Quickly pump the clutch up then see what it goes into gear like, 2 or 3 quick pumps, hold pedal down and try and put it in gear, if it's air in the system it will be compressed and it should make a difference on how it goes into gear, pedal will also come up a bit and be harder just the same as brakes

I'll bet that plug rotted from the outside in, it's a mild steel plug not stainless, now going to check mine and spray it with rust converter and then grease it As for changing coolant... I run Cat ELC premix in every vehicle I have ever owned, if coming up to winter the freeze numbers are low I add neat which you can get per litre here, I sample at every service and never once has the lab recommended a coolant change because it's worn out I also service and repair Cat and Volvo big earthmoving equipment, coolant sampled every 500hrs along with every other fluid compartment, I've changed coolant a few times in a long time on the lab results for mainly 5 reasons. 1. The stupid link between the seat and the steering wheel has used an oil jug to top up the coolant 2. Trans cooler leaking, although this is usually sudden death to a trans as the fluids always goes both ways 3. Engine oil cooler leaking 4. Nox cooler leaking 5. Aftertreatment ARD combustion head leaking The number one cause is actually number 1..... the on board stupid, Cat ELC is red and goes dull when it's cream crackered

My original fob from my 3500 has a panic button but both fobs for my 2500 don't

I guess it depends on how much $ you can find a hi-line CTM with a working fob for, can 1 working fob be used to program a new one ?? I paid $200 total for a used CTM, 2 new fobs and the guys time to sort it all out plus shipping to the UK, I was well happy with that bearing in mind my pass door wouldn't unlock

Wrote on a peice of paper, will try it tomorrow ....thanks

Yes that's it, he told me that a little more testing and he'd be selling them, I said I'd take one as soon as but as you say he disappeared Why not keep looking for a used CTM that comes with a working fob and take 01's offer up of 2 new fobs, mine works fine but the only thing I don't like is the doors lock once the truck is moving, bugs me to death when I stop and go to the pass door and it's locked, I asked the guy to disable pretty much everything on the CTM as less is more to me guess auto lock just sneaked in, not complaining at all though. IIRC my original CTM wouldn't unlock the doors or the passenger door at least, I tested it by swapping a ctm out of my 3500 which worked fine

I have one and the biggest benefit I can see is mine is waterproof..... water just balls on it instead of soaking the filter, I never get water on it anyway but better to be safe that sorry Dodge electrics and water I don't think so

Guy on here did it for me, (Not sure if I should say who) maybe he will see this and say yeah that was me, he found a replacement Hi Line box (for want of a better word) It's Just above your right foot behind the kick panel, then found 2 new fobs, programmed the fobs to the box AND then shipped it all to the UK. But the box might have come with a fob I don't know, it was not a DRB3 When I bought my truck there was no fobs and the box had a problem anyway

your welcome....

Mine is also held together with zip ties as my tabs broke off