wil440

Wouldn't that be an experience Triple rollover on the lotto needed 👍

Yes I plan on less in the winter and a bit more in the better weather I can't wait. I have lots to be getting on with just not the time to fit it all in at the moment

I did look at 5th wheel flat bed but way too much money here, could have a utility box on the front and still room for stuff on the bed I'm hoping just enough work to keep the lights on without running around like a madman 😁

Well after thinking about retiring for some time now I finally did it. I have to work a months notice which is up on the 6th December, not actually retiring but working for myself, got a large box trailer for tools, welder, compressor etc and I now stand at 11 sites to look after which is all the Mobile plant on the 11 sites. I have quite a bit of work to do on the trailer and truck before the 6th to get it where I need it to be. I also just bought OHW Jaltest diagnostic kit and from what I've seen so far it does what Cat ET and the Volvo diag does, just have to test it on the other manufacturer's kit. Roll on the 6th

There was someone on the here a few weeks ago that had got one without the small hole. I commented that my truck has a small hole and it does return fuel all the time regardless of the pressure or at least pressure below 14psi and I recommended that he got the correct overflow valve

That may well be the case. To test your theory on my truck I could check return with a overflow with the little hole and then check with a overflow without the hole. As you know I've tested mine and I have a lot of fuel returning to tank at 8 to 10

Not a lot to stick in the overflow valve as it is ball and spring. I suppose it could have been replaced with one without the small hole which does actually flow a lot of fuel back to tank below this 14psi figure. For once that valve is cheaper in the UK. Paid £6 for genuine which made no difference whatsoever to my PSI

That is a really useful video. Going to have to do my trans at some point so good to watch this

I've tested the return line on my truck with a length of tubing on the Tee at the back of the head and it then sitting in the filler neck and I can say for certain that on my truck I get a lot of fuel returning to tank at a idle FP of around 10 psi. I have a mechanical pump and FP builds very fast after idle also

I have done quite a bit of testing on the fuel system on my truck and one thing I noticed is that my idle fuel pressure is around 8 psi with mechanical pump and Cat filters, it does rise rather fast with rpm, anyway I did restrict the return a little to check what would happen to the fuel pressure, it went very high very fast so thats one reason not to put any restriction in the return line, the other is return fuel cools the vp so restrictions wouldn't be good, the other reason not to do it is fuel returning should be very clean if your fuel filters are doing their job, only debris that will ever be in the return line is if the vp or injectors are making metal and you'd know about that rather fast I'd say. One thing I will add, I have a lot of fuel returning back to tank in the return line even at 8psi

Are you anywhere near a Cat dealer. Cat do cooling system flush fluid. Bought my heater back from the dead. I have a tub at home if you need the part number. I just added to coolant, ran it for 1/2 hour then back flushed heater and engine and then fitted a 190 Stat

Injector lines need all factory clamps fitted. Pressure pulses breaks the tubing otherwise

Bed side shipped to the UK would be more than the cost of a replacement truck the 2 panels I ordered wrong were the inner wheel well panels (gen 3) I needed the outer wheel well panels, these cost near £200 to my door, luckily here gen 3 rams seem to dissolve faster than a sugar cube so these will sell on, the short bed side repair panels were around £250 to my door and the place I got them from off of ebay charge way more now to ship to the uk so they must have got burned on the shipping. I spent 3 hours today looking for my lead loading kit which I bought 20 years ago for a Plymouth Roadrunner I had but never used it in the end as the car got wrote off in a flood, couldn't find it.... ordered another bet I find it next week while looking for something else

Be no different if you wanted stuff for say a Landover though... Companies over there charge a fortune for imported land rovers But the question begs why would you want one of those pieces of junk ?.. It is a lot better than it used to be ebays Global Shipping Program is great plus a lot of sellers now add the tax to the bill so no phone call from our tax office for payment before they release the items

I took the UK government deal of 6 months grace for MOT test due to covid over 6 months ago, it is now well overdue, MOT is our yearly check or test for vehicles. Right hand side bed wheel arch is rusty with holes, this here is a no pass, truck has wheel arch extenders but I had to remove the rears to get the liners out to get to fit the 5th wheel hitch and decided to sort the rust before putting the spats back on. I got both bed sides from rockauto a while ago so once I'd cut the rust out I could see it needed inner wheel well panels, I couldn't find any for a 1998 truck so ordered for a gen 3 BUT I ordered the wrong panels DOH!!! I order the inner panels wheel well panels not the outer wheel well panels so I got sheet steel and set about making what I needed. I should have just bought panels, got it to be close enough as it will be covered by a new outer bed side repair panel anyway, 4 different curves/bends to deal with in one piece, just waiting for the rust convertor to dry then trim the new outer to fit and paint the wheel well and bed side inner with weld through primer and then weld on the new outer, got the left side to do then

Thing is I'm not in desperate need as such. But I'm in the UK and if either one decided not to play I'd be in big trouble, it would be nice to have spares

Sorry.... I got to ask..... are you selling the auto ecm and pcm by any chance

I looked at a lot of pictures of the valve a few months ago when I replaced mine (nothing wrong with old one ) and most had no bleed, I got the same Bosch valve as original and it had a bleed. I have done extensive testing on my truck with the fuel return sitting in the filler neck so I can see whats going on, my truck idles at 8psi, the overflow valve is brand new Bosch, the little bleed hole sends a substantial amount of fuel back to tank even at 8psi My pressures are 8psi idle, 1000rpm 12 to 14psi, 2k rpm 25psi. My main fuel pressure regulator is open at 25psi. My fuel temp never goes over 120f If I restrict my return line slightly fuel pressure would take the face off the gauge by 1000rpm

Don't use it if it doesn't have a weep hole. I have tested my truck with the return line extended into the filler neck and it returns a substantial amount of fuel back to tank even at idle. Genuine Cummins valve is £6.95 here in the UK BTW both old and new were the same

All I can say is I've done a lot of testing on my truck over a period of weeks and my FP at idle is 8 to 9 psi rising to 25 psi at 2k. I removed the return from the basket to check for return flow, I expected none but found a good substantial amount and I found If I restricted this return a little FP rose high enough to blow the face off of my FP gauge. My fuel temperature never goes over 120f and it takes forever to get there. I must add my fuel system has nothing stock now except the vp I have replaced the overflow at the vp with no difference Doing more testing and reading the vp manual to figure out what is going on

I'd be trying another Totally off topic here.. my wife bought a new microwave last weekend, made in china.... the 4 feet it sat on ... not one was level with any of the others, put something in it and turn it on and it turned into a breakdancing R2D2

Thats close..." Ayup mi duck" is a endearing hello to a woman. And " us just gan t pub" is I'm just going to the pub.... us in the north east means "I" not sure what they say for a group probably ussess or somat martian ?

Here lets say we're 700 ish miles top to bottom... give or take.. from the top to the bottom it may as well be here to Mars the spoken word is that different, with the North East being the hardest. Anyone tell me what this means Ayup mi duck...... us jus gan t pub ?

You won't hurt my feelings mate ......The rust is down to the huge amount of salt that the councils put on the roads here in winter and the amount of rain we get the rest of the year, anything that's threaded I do smother with copperslip but the rest can just rust. Truck is 1998 and for 22 years old and here it's doing ok...... most other stuff is bean tins around 10... friend of mine has a gen 3 5.7 hemi and thats rusting bad, he has just spend hours patching the frame (which is a chassis here ), doors, sills (sorry rocker panels ) wings (fenders) You are right there is a bit of a difference in wording Catches me out when looking for parts say on Rockauto, or the like

I renewed both sway bar links complete about 18 months ago, now both sets of bushes are split again and it's MOT time. I had a set of Landrover 90/110 rear lower shock absorber polybushes and they are just right for the sway bar link bushes, the ones I have are a flat bush but you can get bushes with a cone shape on one side which would sit in the sway bar better. Could probably do with a thin tube spacer in the sway bay just to centralize it but I didn't have a piece of tube the right size Probably not much use to you guys in the USA but here in the UK and Europe landrover stuff is everywhere, cheapest on Ebay is £3.85 for the set