wil440

Do you know anyone with a diagnostics box with a scope like the new snap on ones. I have a SO Modis Ultra and testing 3 wire sensors is easy using the scope as you spoon into the signal wire but a DMM won't read pulse width signals unless it has a scope

Mine did not lock/unlock it just felt like the LU was slipping/grabbing VERY fast, this caused what I can only describe as driving over a cattle grid at 100mph or rubbing a credit card across the bars of a parrot cage very fast, if I backed off then back on it but slow and easy it would be fine, BUT backing of causes the LU to actually unlock then it locks again as you accelerate so my thoughts were it is actually being turned back on after the backoff unlock. I might have done it straight away or it might not have done it for miles it was so unpredictable.... all I know is WT mod and it's never done it since and I'm making more power now with the quad, yes I know not a huge amount more as the last thing I need is a trashed trans but I have briefly got on it in LU to test to see if it has gone and it is now really smooth and no prob, do the AC test and check, if you have a multimeter it is cost free

Have you done the WT mod ? My truck used to shudder in 4th LU . Did the mod and it's not done it since. I fitted a quad later on and it still holds fine in 4th LU . I've got a tow tune on it and trucks feels really nice in LU but I'm only on lvl3 out of 11 I think due to stock trans

Have you checked the one at the back of cyl head

overflow valve sticking would do it but you should see a drop in fp I'd have thought. Do you know anyone with a new snap on scanner as it is possible your scanner can't read whatever is throwing the 1693, just a thought as I got a S-O Modis Ultra and that reads everything including abs

Is the stumble in any way related to fuel level by any chance, not necessarily empty tank but split/crack/hole in suction tube in the tank ??

If that was mine I'd be looking for air getting in on pump suction side first, can you put a peice of clear hose into the line at the vp to check for air ? Air getting in will not necessarily mean a reduction in fuel pressure certainly if it's not much and the fuel pump is good/ fast enough to pressurize it, it just becomes a 15psi air bubble or whatever fp is but when that bubble gets to injectors then engine is off until fuel is present again My truck had a stumble last year, that was fuel starvation, truck had a direct replacement Fass..... needless to say it does not have an electric f pump now

Auto Computer Specialists..... listed in the vendors section.

The import duty and vat on top of cost is the killer, wasn't too bad when exchange rate was over $1.80 to the £ but now its really bad. Vat is charged on parts + shipping+ import duty × 20%

I've just fitted a Standard Motor Products AS334 from Rockauto it was £60 which is about $75, best bit was Made In The USA on the box not china Of course it was about £130 before it got to me due to import duty and VAT

K&N not the best air filter, better of with a BHAF, just do a search on here cheap as chips and much better than K&N

Don't forget, there's a good chance the shoe surface isn't fully contacting the drum yet until fully bed in, may only be contacting the drum at the cylinder end of the shoes for a while, a couple of re adjusts should sort that out, also friction material won't be at its best yet

can you not just loosen the clamp and clock the housing or am I missing something ?? just looked again at your pictures the first pic, the steel ring with what looks like 4 or maybe 6 bolts ( can't tell) might have to make or bend another canister arm/rod though

I checked my map voltages with a snap on modis ultra this morning key on engine off 0.6v engine running, idle 0.6v engine running at 2000rpm 0.8v these figures will be low as it's not ingear or loaded but if you checked yours the same you're higher than me, does the output change smoothly with rpm ? Have you ran through the diagnostics for the 112 code yet ?? this code looks to be a quicker ecm pass or fail check

On most bigger diesel starters there are 2 things that happen when the key is turned. 1. the bendix is thrown into the ring gear first 2. starter spins as the bendix is fully engaged or slightly after full engagement This protects the starter teeth and the flywheel teeth by making sure the teeth have full engagement, it happens very quick and the eye may not even be able to see it I don't know whether these starters are the same as I've never had one apart but as said above a good click then nothing is usually starter contacts

Friction modifier will sort the rear end out, I use Caterpillar stuff in mine https://parts.cat.com/en/catcorp/1U-9891 doesn't need much at all

Mine stayed at 2 volts, map sensor bad, signal voltage back to ecm needs to change with manifold pressure, but it also needs to change correctly within what the ecm is expecting to see, for instance if its normal range is .2v to 5v and for whatever reason its .2 to 6v it ought to set a voltage high code or high boost code. I don't know what the normal range is on a good sensor though Is the 0112 and 1475 still active and have you done the diagnostics on those ?? Also did you clear the codes after fitting the new sensors ?, I had to clear mine after fitting the new map sensor, it won't go off on it's own except after so many key ons I see in your previous posts that a buddy of yours has a scanner that can read data am I right ?? if so it might be worth checking data again on your new map as $15 is cheap, mine was over $100 and that was the cheapest I could find It could well be ecm but it is worth checking everything else to death before the final condemn the ecm

I had a bumper pull maybe 9.5k lbs dry.... no WD hitch... not nice at all.. got shut of that pronto, now have a 5th wheel..... wow what a difference, no sway, no yaw nowt' all good and eager to be able to use it again on this lockdown crap

Ok, so you have 5 volt supply and you earth and signal wires are good. I would now reconnect ecm and map sensor and do 1. Ignition on. Check for earth supply at the sensor, use a pin or paper clip and connect red lead, black lead to battery neg. Check for continuity. 2. Check sensor signal with engine running. Go into the map plug at signal wire, red lead, black to map earth wire you may need to make a longer test wire for this, see if sensor output changes with rpm and load. Mine at this point stayed at 2 volt

I think Steps 6 and 7 are checking for shorts to ground on the signal wire, 6 is short to just a ground, 7 is a short to the sensor ground, and as you have OL then that is a pass technically BUT that OL could also be a broken wire I would be checking continuity of signal wire back to ECM and the sensor earth supply, check with engine off and check continuity down each wire separately so one lead one end, other lead other end, there should be very little resistance, wiggle wiring around in the harness while checking If you have an open circuit on either I would find the reason for this instead of just running in a new wire as the reason for the open may well cause you more problems in the future, you may well need to add a new wire but I'd find the cause first

https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/obdii-error-codes_94/

Check your codes here, pick one and run through the diagnostics, you will need a voltmeter. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/obdii-error-codes_94/ Have you checked for water/corrosion at the ECU (drivers side of the block at the rear ish ), PCM (passenger side firewall) and VP44 (injection pump at drivers side front) I can only speak for myself but I wouldn't put so much as a teaspoon of water under the hood except to top up coolant

You are right

I'd already used that grommet for quite a lot

For the life of me I can't remember, all I do know is the cable went through that area..... jeezz it's only 2 or 3 months ago since I did it and Yes transfer case shift boot