2500ctd

Does the regulator come with a new motor? My pass side glass rocks and gets jammed in the window track. From what I found out is it is non repairable. Sorry couldnt help ya with the wiring. Everytime I checked this thread I was at work and couldnt upload the diagram.

Normally during a rupture where all the freon disperses rather quickly. It will pull the oil out with it. Like a line rupturing. Also when replacing a major component. Like the compressor, evap coil etc. There is a ac sticky somewhere. "ac components" iirc ok found it : Ac thread

Not sure if it works on our trucks or how bad its has to be but tune to an AM station that is just static. Any noise you can here. Like I said not sure how bad it has to be to be picked up by the radio. We have a98 Jeep GC that I can hear the ignition through the am radio. :banghead:

No problem I just went into the local napa and asked. Also they need a different tool to take them ot. The tire valved sized schrader handles wont work.

Yes the filters just mask another problem. Only thing is connectors should be checked as corrision can start and become an issue. Here some TV adjustments pages: http://www.atsdiesel.com/additionalinfo/3092164/TV%20Cable%20Adjustment%20v1.0.pdf http://bionicdodge.com/Download/Dodge_Ram_Truck_Transmission_Adjustment.pdf

Yea I did replace the schraders and it leaked out faster. I hope it is just the schraders and I did not introduce an additional leak. Where did you get yours? I got mine from a little kit at Napa.

Yes TV is throttle valve cable. AKA kickdown cable. VSS is vehicle speed sensor.

Water hammer effects

Your just testing the vp44. I would make sure that the lift pump is running at least. Just turn the key to on.Added a tag to the thread. Never saw the post over there on hotwiring a VP. Always heard about it but never saw how to.

How do you use the nitrogen? Lik eothers I have the same thing. However, I think it might be the schrader valves in my system. Did the soap and water and it blew bubbles on the low side port.

I had that same isolator and it failed. I do have another one. Different style and it has been a while....maybe 6yrs? Got it from vulcan. no issues with it so far. I have also heard of guys running a snubber too. Not sure on its operation but I am guessing it is a small air chamber. The air helps absorb the water hammer, like mike said how the gauge works as the air trapped in the line slowly leaks out. I didnt want to direct plumb it only due to the smell if it leaks. I am redoing my gauges and thinking of going electric but not sure of a sender that cam handle it. Will probably do the same tricks as a mechanical gauge for plumbing in a sender, needle valve and maybe try one of those snubbers. They are cheap.....Gauge snubber

My built tranny dopped temps when in OD. triple lock as well so no slippage. Another thing if you have an egt, as engine speed drops the egts will go up. I normally kick the od off when engine speed drops to about 1600rpm.

Just like the rad cooler in the rad. A leak between the 2 fluids. Never heard of one leaking/failing. only the lines to it.

So is it worth it to get the oil testing done? Been thinking about ot to extend the oil changes. Still running dino oil so dont see a reason for it. If I ran syn i would so to make the most out of the oil.

Doing some interior work to my truck and relocating my FP gauge to on top of the dash. Next to my BD X-monitor sits. Well actually I am going to try my hand and making a fiberglass pod and partially recess it into the dash. Since I am doing this, I like to plan ahead. So I will have the bd x monitor(boost,egt, tranny temp), and my FP gauge for additionals thinknig a 2nd boost gauge(for the twins later on), to read between the turbo stages, a dual airtemp gauge before and after the intercooler, and a diff temp gauge. After some searching thinking about putting a scangauge in there. instead but what other "non required" gauges do you guys run. Might try to go for the airplane cockpit look. If I could get the gauges in a mirror image I would mount them facing up into the dash so I could read the reflection in the winshield.

Yes and no. 10yrs is a long time. Corrision can seep in, strain on the wires, and maybe even a bad connection from the get go. I agree the tin foil is little excessive. The black helicopters can see through the foil...... Do you have a diy way for this? I would like to try it. I dont have a way to load the alt down though. As for the connectors just measure either side of them. Any voltage drop equals resistance. Then I would clean the connectors. Actually cutting and splicing or actually replacing with a single wire is best. All connections introduce an area where issues can start. All the seemingly over use of connectors in our harness is only to aid in assembly. I am redoing some wiring under the dash on my truck now, and C134 is the new version of the oldschool bulkhead connector. They are good connectors as stated they can last a long time and often do. Until someone gets in there and hacks it up. Which I am fixing. Simple testing can determine if a connector is really bad or not. I wouldnt go eliminating all the connections on a whim. Now If I was rewiring from scratch I probably would then. On the driver side dash support is a main ground for alot of wires. Like 8 wires going to one ring connector. I looked at it and it seems like a pressure weld type of connection. Very secure looking. Now the fact that the dash support is not painted and has surface rust, well I am going to disconnect the ground clean the area back to bare metal and then hit it with some dielectric grease. Figure inside the truck protected from the elements it should last a long time. Plus I am going to add a nut on the stud to piggy back off the factory ground. I am also adding a seperate fuse panel. I have done enough bad wiring to know what doesnt work in a couple years.

Whats the micron rating on the stratapore fuel filters? That is what I run oil and fuel.

I need to buy and install teh second half of my twins setup. With my current setup only hitting about 35psi. All the reading I thoguht I would have enough fuel to hit around 40psi. Truck hazes at WOT, so I think I am going to hook my air compressor up and see what the waste gate opens up at too. Oter similar setups are running lower EGTs then me. So being it seems to haze and slightly higher egts I think the waste gate is opening prematurely. Also it seems to be running about the same boost it was with the rv275 and the newer injectors as well.

LOL I thought that when they first started saying to put a grease gun hose on it. Always thought I was "missing" some part of a bigger picture. I also have a Dipricol as well. No needle vavle just an isolator from Vulcan. from somewhere '05 maybe '06. Only thing with the gauge is one light seems to randomly work. I am relocating my gauge from the cubby hole to the top of the dash. I miss my cubby. Been looking at electric gauges. These are nice but spendy. Speedhut Still not set on them yet. Might just stick with the mechanical one for now as it still does work.

I had the block mounted cater. Lift pump went out/ or low pressure really at around 99K. Dodge declined the warranty since the truck was in service more than 5 years. Which I didnt know since I bought it used. This was around the time iirc that dodge switched from using pressure to using the flow for checking teh lift pump. I later put the intank module in. Yea I am now running a walbro with no issues. On my second walbro and had over 100K on the last one. So I am almost positive I have the original VP. CAn the dealershps pull up warranty work done? Never thoguht about it before, and if they can, would they? I have a sticker that some kind of reflash was done to my truck. Who knows now as I do have a smarty.

Thanks. If the picture is actually representative, I bet the part that is bad is what the "8" is actually pointing too. Not just to the whole part but that little horizontal piece. Looking like it's non repairable.

I dont roll my passneger side window anymore since everytime I do it tilts back in the track and almost jams whwn trying to put it back up, and the fear that I have read that it could fall off the regulator and drop in the door, with my luck it would shatter. Searching around it seems that when this happens the regulator gets replaced, since the little bushings cant be replaced.anyone have this issue? Not looking forward to the dealer. Might give LMC a try.

~250K here...Well bought the truck with 56K so unless it was replaced in the first 56K I got the orig vp44 too.

I think smarty has a cold weather flash, if you can get it to connect.

I noticed this more now that I think abouty it, since the new turbo. Too me almost feels like turbo lag. But it the turbo lights about the same time, mainly more like 1800 rpm but that is around 25mph. So the turbo lights as tm reduces. tis a fun ride. Reminds me of a delay box for bracket racing.