cummins2k

She sleeps pretty good. However wakes up every few hours to eat. No biggie I am usually up and down all night anyway. So far we are starting savings accounts. I want to see my kids go to college and am willing to pay for that.

One would have to not only increase the efficiency of the engine but also improve aerodynamics, reduce weight, and reduce rolling resistance to obtain such a lofty goal. In the end you would end up with something that looks nothing like an OTR truck, most likely fragile, expensive to manufacture and repair, and would be limited in acceleration and road speed. Unfortunately politicians are not engineers nor scientists.

Most failures with the VP44 are mechanical. That is rotor and housing wear causing the dreaded P0216 code. This can really only be aided by a steel insert (slows wear, most do this now) or better lubrication (2-cycle as Mopar1973Man suggests.)However if you truck is still failing pumps due to the logic board getting too hot (a problem that was supposed to be remedied in newer pumps) then I would look less at directing air to the injection pump and more towards directing hot air out of the engine bay itself.

Well this one is actually a girl, but I have a 3 nearly 4 year old boy too. Wife has never had a problem with post partum but we switch off the baby duty at night since I rarely sleep more than a few hours at a time anyway.My son has already had the joys of working on the truck. He loves my truck, even though his mother hates it lol.

Been about a week since we came home from the hospital. Still a tiny little thing.

The actual stuff I was looking at in terms of epoxy is make by Quickrete and it claims to be 2x stronger than concrete. However reading a lot of reviews it seems that it worked for some and others had it peel. I am willing to bet they didn't get the surface cleaned well first. I am really considering this because I hate getting oil on the concrete.

Nice I was thinking about doing an epoxy coating or acid stain on mine. However I have been told jack stands and jacks are a no-no with epoxy floors unless you have special rubber feet and wheels so I am more leaning towards the acid stain.

While interesting I have a feeling that it is not very safe. I can see someone out for a few drinks going out for a cig and giving himself a hindu dot lol

I am going to take a stab at it and say you could probably break out the die grinder with a few sand paper rolls and smooth the transition on your stock manifold plate to achieve very close flow numbers. I really do not see that big of a flow difference occurring between stock and this expensive plate. Also since your engine is turbocharged I am willing to bet there is already plenty of turbulence happening in the intake manifold. However it does look beautifully machined, but probably not worth your time or money.

The Federal Motor Carrier Administration states that if the vehicle weighs 26,001# or more then you are required to have a CDL from your state. That is Federal Law. It also states that any vehicle (trailer) in tow regardless of the towing vehicles weighs 10,001 or more then you must have a CDL. A lot of States will give exemptions on this for recreational vehicles, such as toy haulers. Appears that Florida (and every other state I have looked up) operates off the same laws so I would be careful towing in excess of 10,001 pounds, you could be in for a ticket. http://www.dmvflorida.org/commercial-license.shtml

That is about where I would keep mine if I had 5k in tow. However as the weight goes up I like to keep the rpms higher. Just to keep the egt levels acceptable.

I am sure there would be ways to do so if you are creative enough and have the tooling to do so. However the whole point of the VP44 is the electronic control. While early pumps did have electronic failures the later do not experience so many, they experience mechanical failure causing an inability to control timing.Therefore I would think it would be wiser to convert to a P7100 or VE if you do not like the VP44. Otherwise just leave the pump be, run 2-cycle, and keep a good lift pump on it.

I could be wrong. However I believe that the 2001 trucks had electronic cruise control, as do I believe my 2000 has. The vacuum system should still control the CAD unit and I think the heater vents. This could be a problem with it. I know on the Dakotas the actuator? on the axle routinely goes when they get older. However vacuum is very easy. Drop $10-$20 for a vacuum gauge you will probably use it again as they can be helpful with a ton of things. With a little vacuum hose and possibly a t-fitting you can easily test what the vacuum is doing at specific places in the system.

Well I am trying to figure out why my Ram started to eat the front tires. The truck is basically all stock replacement parts except the ball joints and track bar. The ball joints and track bar are all Moog parts. I jacked up the front end and did the typical 12 and 6 o'clock test to see if there was any play in the hub or ball joints and couldn't manage to see anything even when using a pipe under the tire. The only thing that really stuck out to me was the track bar. When on the ground you can visually see the gap increase between chassis mount and the ball stud in the track bar. The symptoms the truck has is the steering wheel is off by about 1/3 turn toward the drivers side of the truck, yet the truck tries to dart towards the passenger side when the steering wheel let go of. I also feel a clunk when turning, just one clunk and it can be felt in the floor boards and steering wheel. At a stop I can recreate this clunk by turning the steering wheel left. When I accelerate from a dead stop I also feel this clunk, once again just one and it can be felt in the floor board. When I bring the truck up to highway speed I get a hollow knock, also felt in the floor pan. No real death wobble, yet. But this knock definitely changes with the condition of the roads and road speed. Bumpy highways increase the frequency of the knock as does road speed. The truck is also wandering a lot. The track bar was replaced by a previous owner it is a 2" Moog bar so using Luke's Links is out of the question. The only thing I can think of right now is the track bar is allowing the axle to move toward the passenger causing the toe to change on both wheels hence the stair stepping and balding of the passenger side tire. Anyone have any other advice, possibly something I should have but didn't check. I know this track bar has met the end of it's days but I really want to get rid of this tire wear. Buy 6 tires isn't cheap! (Sorry for the size of the pics, not sure how to resize them with forum code) Video of track bar play (Watch the upper portion of the screen for the track bar ball stud, much easier to see fullscreen it's a crappy vid) Passenger Side Tire Drivers side tire

Not only that his Grandmother claims to have been present for his birth in Kenya.

Wow you guys are pulling impressive numbers. Unfortunately I am not getting that great of fuel mileage but I still wouldn't consider mine bad. My truck is an 00' 3500 (dually) quad cab 4x4 SLT 6-spd. I am running the factory size tires. With 3.55(?) gears and running 55mph-75mph 85% highway and the rest 35-45mph city I am pulling 18.5mpg on the overhead and 17.8mpg by hand calcs. The only modifications that the truck has is an Edge Attitude w/ Juice, BHAF, crankcase vent BOMB, and AirDog 150.I know that 17-18mpg doesn't sound great but for such a heavy truck I think the numbers are quite impressive, more so considering my single cab/short bed Dodge Dakota 4x4 5-spd with a Magnum V6 does 14-16mpg highway depending on the weather and 12mpg in town. If I could run 55mph everywhere without getting blown off the road or firing up somebodies road rage I could get even better numbers I am sure.

I would think it would make the synchro's last longer if you were doing it properly and matching the rpm's as you would think the two shafts would be spinning at the same speed so no synchro friction would occur. Whereas with a normal shift using the clutch the shafts are at different speeds and the synchro serves it's purpose by bringing them to the same speed. That's if you aren't relying on the synchro's to make the shift though. If you are you are either going to grind or really increase the wear on the synchro. Being that the vehicle is designed to operate using a clutch I would just continue doing so.

Just like most manual transmissions the previous owner or a mechanic dumping the wrong fluid in can cause problems. IIRC the NV4500 uses a gear lube of 75W90 but it MUST be GL-4 rated to prevent the lube from attacking the yellow metals in the transmission.

"amboolance" i mean seriously, really?

First off you should probably fill out your sig so we know what your working with :thumbsup:Not to state the obvious but the first thing that comes to mind is did you remove the 10mm bolt that retains the sensor?

That is great!

I feel your pain I lost 3 of the 1TB Seagate drives before I just went and bought a Western Digital 640GB (I still haven't filled it up so why would I need the 1TB right?)None of them made it more than a month and failed without warning. Thankfully I didn't keep anything vital on the drives and they will basically fresh installations of Windows XP with odds n ends thrown in. I have since purchase a WD MyBook 1TB to use as a back up just in case this drive goes.

It's no wonder it didn't catch on 84 years ago. Most people were more worried about surviving then buying a gadget. Also assembly lines, manufacturing techniques, and shipping where still in a period of development and refinement. I admit it is cool, but it was probably far from in the budget for most farms and households 84 years ago.

It seems that our state is going the same way. I would be even happier if the U.S. Presidency took that route once more, we need a President not a celebrity in this hard times.

Don't know how relevant it is. But on the CumminsForum someone brought up a copper seal for the injectors going bad causing the tank to pressurize due to blow by that makes it into the return line. My truck has had this pressurization problem for sometime. I ended up "venting" the tank by taking apart the fuel cap and causing it to vent. I think it's time for me to investigate this copper seal thing a little more...On the flip side I do not have the death code. But I installed an AirDog 150 and run 2-cycle like Mopar1973Man suggests.