Stanley

Well after some of my other posts, most know about fuel issues which got solved with new injectors. Drove amazing for what ever it was 1-2 weeks, then all of a sudden today going to work I slowed down on the off ramp at my exit started hearing and feeling this "Bad fuel knock video" Truck is very hard to start- acting like it's not getting fuel- after sitting for awhile. In video I am loading truck on trailer to bring home. This is my daily and I'm kinda up the creek without a paddle atm. Could new injector(s) be bad or injection pump took a $#!% or worse?!?! *No check engine light or codes via key flip. Edit: Update Started the truck, smokes so bad, cracked each injector line one by one and #2 is the only one that changed sound or took away from that miss/lope in video. Would just one injector make all this happen on our trucks? 2 week~ish old injectors Thoughts ?@dieselautopower

Hey gang, injectors have been in the truck for a bit and man what difference. Night and day! Way different drivabilty and mannerisms and doesn't smoke that much. Super happy! I found that my lope is still there but I guess I'll blame it on the tubes, lines etc and leave it at that. Nothing else I can do... Maybe tuner? Adjusting fuel going to idle to compensate for bigger lines etc? I will need a tuner for sure. Definitely can tell trucks itchin for more fuel and it can handle it. Truck even sounds different with new injectors... it's not a low grunt or grumble anymore. Idk hard to explain but it sounds different lol. Load off the shoulders, now just small(er) things to tackle and mess with.

Funny you should ask that question today @dieselautopower I went and got my injectors popped etc, I kinda knew what was gonna happen when I pulled them out anyway, 3 and 6 was the best ones and they barely made any pattern more of a drizzle, the others just gummy! So holy cow! That's prolly the big reason it's running like crap! Got back to work the called @dieselautopower and talked to I believe (Mitchell)? Sorry can't remember lol. Very helpful kinda explained what my options were etc. He described my 6x18 as 400hp + I didn't know they were that big! So after talking a min we settled on 6x.013 I think he said around 250-300hp flow. It will work with my DF pump and in the future pair up nicely with twins. Hopefully they shipped out today if not they will tomorrow, they had to whip me up a set😉 Awesome guys at @dieselautopower! Really appreciate the help and guidance, Thank you. The cross over tube are a heck of alot bigger than stock! You could suck a milkshake through it🤣 I have a brand new set of oem cross over tunes if anyone's looking, and a set of oem injectors/cores maybe. Make a heck of a deal! I am gonna go ahead and knock out that mod too! I seen @Mopar1973Man write up on the mod but I can't find the original @W-T article. Maybe I'm overlooking it or it didn't pop out at me. I was wanting to reference both when doing it.

I'm pretty sure I have a miss/shudder when throttling up from 2k and with a lug on it sometimes. Kinda hard to explain what u feel while driving buy I guess the only explanation would be a shudder or miss...? So should I run map sensor I have now knowing it's off and just pull injectors now or do both? Either way I think it's safe to say I'm pulling them out, just gotta find a ride to borrow for work real quick. I guess if their too bad to rebuild, I'm calling up @dieselautopower again for parts 😉 I got and extra set of cores too. Maybe a bundle deal 😘

If it maxes out at 22 psi then this would still be way outta wack at idle. I'm thinking there's no other choice on getting one at this point. Grid heaters kinda worry me the more I think about it lol being just not there and unplugged

Yup, MAP sensor will be ordered shortly. Gonna go ahead and get a IAT sensor too. 22 psi - Heck, should have been higher 30-40 ish lol. Think the new MAP sensor would affect any of the stuff I got going on? Timing etc?

Well went and deleted codes today. This is my p0234 code with values then me messing around with the live data stuff. Map pressure didn't change however no load... Think about throwing a map sensor in it and a iat sensor also. Cause idk what else to do... Gonna also run an over head this weekend just to check. I'll have to order the sensors though... After that or sooner I'm gonna pull injectors and have them popped and checked over. Edit: I forgot to ask about grid heater and all encompassed with it. Nothing is connected its just removed/gone. I'll take a picture if needed. I have both grid heater codes going on, I think p0380 and p0382? Is this of any concern?

I mean I have bled 1,3 & 4 like I have always done after any fuel repairs, starts up and run good. Drove home today after the key redo. Has power and will "get up and go" but not like it used to. It's not a turd*or gutless to an extent* but not as it should be doing for what it is... I barely get black smoke mostly grey/white. *what's hard to figure out is that this is a (was told) dragon flow vp and 6x18 Injectors* (no 100% verification-other than how it acts and drives)=lots of fuel and smoke. So it's hard to decifer that. I thought about measuring temps at each exhaust port and comparing? I found a P0234 code for overboost idk if it's active or stored or how old?- used the key flip -a- roo. For reference, I can peg a 60psi boost gauge... I however have the waste gate set at 40 psi I forget why I did it when I done the big teardown Also note worthy if no one knew, there is no fueling/timing box period just pump and injectors. So am I missing/overlooking anything? I'm stumped right now and don't wanna chunk money at it till it's narrowed down. Here is the pump info, took pic today. Idk who built this? Any insight on who it could be. 028DF is not listed on it...

Well I pulled vp44 out and put new key in same number and facing correct way! Driving back home from the shop it didn't change the white/grey smoke any... still has that raspy popping from exhaust, could be tip or timing again or something else idk. So same stuff different day... For some weird reason it seems to maybe run "smoother" but it could be my brain trying to make my problem seem a little less worse... So I'm at a loss again... I had such high hopes of this fix ☹ Help me(sad voice)!

@Mopar1973Man Sounds like my issue.... ^^ Then I found this.... kinda my situation to an extent.

Well good news that's bad news. I got to doing ALOT of research and was finding info on people putting keyway in backwards. I have no idea how that would affect timing but..... All the keyway stuff I've ever messed with personally and at John Deere position didn't matter. So I stayed late at work got down to the keyway and borrowed my buddies bore scope. Sure as **** mine is in backwards, arrow out towards cover. So I am seriously hoping this clears everything up that I been dealing with. Gonna swap the key around tomorrow or this weekend. Gonna get an extra key just in case (044)... Can someone school me on how this positioning affects timing? Also now that I know ideally don't want to drive it like this but I prolly will have too, think I'll be ok???

Would yall run this stuff from wally world?

As in popping noise or pop pressures? The thing is it could be any fuel component? I don't wanna buy another vp44 especially a dragon flow. I could have it tested at Northeast Diesel but the down time...... My boss thinks the advance spring in vpp44 could be weak and cause the surge or "lope"... I have that black to grayish smoke - no white. And that raspy popping sound in the video. I thought about pulling injectors (6×18) and having my friend at Northeast Diesel check them out. Again the down time but alot less than vp44 testing. Dont know what to do and I'm really confused on the lope and grey smoke. Especially since I'm dealing with bigger (go fast) parts. Different than all the stuff I do at John Deere 🤪

Still haven't been able to use the cummins I sight yet, probably will have to source some connections though, not sure what all cables we have... I'm kinda surprised that not many people chimed in on my videos... Grey smoke not completely black and popping has me concerned. I have read some have clocked the vp44 off one tooth, I have very good faith did not do that but then again no one is perfect... I'd lay money on it though🤣 Might need a bore scope to check gears in the case...

Man this is some in depth stuff here!!! Gosh I wish I knew all this; or what you were even talking about

I'm totally down to get one! I just need to be smart and find out if I have a problem in any fuel component first just in case I have to replace said item(s). For all I know it could just be lean on fuel or timing or pop pressures... finding those out would make me a happy camper. I want to use my AC...😁 I'm also having grey smoke 🚬 too. Not black like it should be I'm gonna see about hooking up the Cummins Insight tomorrow and see what I can monitor. If I get something good I'll post it up.

I think I can agree on the quad from what I've read. I just would like to maybe get some insight on whats going on with my fueling and or timing currently, maybe give me clues on what I got going on in there since I have the world's of unknown going on lol.

God I want to figure this crap out. I have access to Cummins Insight at work. Never played with it/used it. Would this be helpful to use? What parameters can be monitored?

That's a decent jump in psi... I haven't dealt with or read much on the quad, I'll have to start though lol. I been trying to find the original owner to ask if in fact that's what's in it. Did you notice the raspy popping sound from the exhaust when I was getting on it? I have 5" exhaust, that's really not known to be raspy so I was thinking it could be something else, maybe related to fueling or timing, maybe as a clue? I wish I knew someone I could borrow a tuner (before I bought one) to check what added fuel/timing would do.....

Yes that clutch was a pita to drive... got rid of that and the comp box thinking that would help streetabilitly and mpg, but no I still get 11 mpg and of course the issues at hand. It did run like a bandit with the comp box... I just can't remember if I had this issue with it or not...I always thought the comp box did both aggressive timing and fueling depending on which setting? I don't have anything else on it beside what I got listed. I was seriously thinking about another comp box or something similar to really do some good tests with different parameters.

@Silverwolf2691 "Unknown fuel components" guy I bought it from years ago said this is what is in it... he gave me a set of injectors, lines, brand new tubes, and old valve springs as "spares/ take offs". Which all this leads me to believe it's all true but again I have no receipts on those items. It did have a sintered iron dual disc before I took it out, those are for some serious power.... it all adds up but I just can't be certain. Idk if it adds any thing to the mix- he did have a edge comp box hot on it too. I since took it off and sold it. Kinda odd that was on there cause I believe the dragon flow etc have timing built in all ready. Could it be that I still need timing added into the equation? I knew it would be hard to get it to clean up if any, but I figured showing it would atleast give insight on what I have or don't along with the "lope" It's as soon as you take any load off of engine pretty much it does that in the video. Really bad with AC and very small w/o AC. With ac on it will work its way from what's in the video to a much broader range and eventually kill it. Which is why I can't drive with my ac on in the hot weather, cause that's dangerous lol...

@Great work! Amazon states it doesn't fit Alot of things don't usually fit but WORK. Just thought it was kinda funny. Kind of a bump here, Hopefully the videos will show what I'm dealing with and trying to figure out. A reputable diesel shop which my boss used to work at, he called and asked, says it prolly my advancement springs weak and its basically sliding back and forth... Still trying to narrow down a pinion seal 🦭 Gonna order a track bar from DOR and send in my parts trucks steering gear 98'-1500 to @Blue-Top Steering to get rebuilt. I think I'll like the quicker ratio in town. Then my entire front end will be redone (all DOR) with the blue top. Not as important but I got a plastic welder, trying to figure out how to reattach my arm rest panel to door panel. Proving to be a bit difficult to make a stud on arm rest then melt back to door panel.

Lucky guy 🙂 We'd I received an air filter.... just part of order lol. And an email stating such finally... I wish someone would call me, I tried pretty hard to get them to. with no luck

This is ran with A.C. on max. It will kill itself sometimes, depends on what's going on really, but kinda random Does the same thing with it off but a *mini-mini version... Hopefully yall can hear the lope in this, I could on my phone... just a little test drive down a side road near the house. I gave it some throttle to show how much it smokes, due to unknown fuel system parts.... This one shows the tach bouncing, sorry for the camera moving around I had it set on the column which looked like it'd be smooth but not lol. What is it???? Pop pressures? Pump advance worn out just moving around? Pump bad? Controller? Also waiting on someone to cough up a rear sway bar mount 🤣🤣 & pinion seal ideas 😉

@Stubilly I just replaced my clockspring, didn't really pay close attention to the horn stuff, I was replacing due to intermittent wiper issue and no cruise. I only remember 3 connections, L&R cruise and airbag. I was in a hurry so I that's maybe why I don't remember a (horn wire) I thought I took some pics but I guess I deleted them after the job. Also had CTM issue - power locks stopped working, unplugged original checked terminals and swapped in another no change plugged old one back in replaced fuse and it worked. I've seen a couple instances where this has worked for others on certain issues, it just being a bad connection....