Stanley

Anyone ever removed the inner sections of the motor mount? I'm going to be replacing them with the poly inserts from Genos or from polybushings.com I have engine out and mounts off of engine. I assume they are just pressed in, and I need to press out?

1/4 tank issue..... Pretty common actually, add plenty of fuel re prime as stated, try again. 21 psi is pretty high for start up on vp44's. Anyone correct me if I'm wrong, but it should be alot lower. High psi causes hard starts, and that could be an addition with the low fuel for no start?

Did you use soapy water on all your boots? I actually made my own pressure tester, I'll have to find and take pics if you need ideas. Buy I could regulate psi in with engine off and listen, use soapy water and find any leaks.

Any experience with this?

Could a 57/65/14 push 60 psi? Said he could peg his gauge before we pulled it...

I got an old john deere turbo that I'm gonna tear apart so I can get an idea on how things go before I jump into this one. I'm gonna try and talk him into twining it with maybe a S400, the crazy Carl's twin kit...? Gonna try DAP first and see if the have the rebuild kit.

Trying to find specs on this turbo for a guy and I cant find any actual specs on it...(sizes) It needs a rebuild kit also if anyone knows a good place where to get kits Pn 176234 S300g Sn 02A143110196

Ok thanks guys, I might just stick with the original box on the truck now. I have 285's now and plan on going to 35's due to my 4.10 ratio to help out with mpgs...

1500 gear boxes are the same? I have 1500 gear box I could use, I do want a quicker ratio though. Does he do that with the gear box I send in? @dripley core charge, I see now..

I'd want the best I could get if I'm gonna spend the money, ya know. Why would the new one cost more, from my memory I believe they were quite a bit more than 280$. If its all the same, apples to apples, I'll just send mine in when I can.

Emailed Blue top yesterday, they are not stocking 2nd gen stuff till maybe July... How ever I can send mine in for R&R for 280$. I asked what the difference was R&R vs blue top and hes said its the same? Is it really all the same stuff? I figured that it was beefier etc than what we had, and better ratios etc... Can someone elaborate, Ive never dealt with steering boxes. Thanks He was very quick with replies, and courteous might I add.

Was digging around and now Im also thinking of a rear freeze plug block off plate too while its accessible... @Mopar1973Man or someone else please school this young army fella in all my retarded questions...

If it was me Id buy a unit ready to run... Im all about homemade things but, certain items need the proper tools...

Awesome, let me know if you have any questions. These are a pretty simple design, been into them quite a few times now and getting pretty quick at rebuilding them haha....

@Dieselfuture Do you mean the little "tin cap" on the tail housing? I have decided to pull the engine... I have everything removed from the rear of the engine, including the mounting plate; oil pan is removed also. I noticed that my tappet cover is leaking slightly at the lower rear corner... This made me realize it would be easier to just pull the engine and do everything outside to truck... For the front main seal Ill have to take off the whole front of the truck anyhow to make it easy, so all i have left is to undo motor mounts and some wiring clamps etc then pull motor... Hopefully going back in with oil pan on and everything attached wont be to tricky! this will also help with doing to powering steering and vacuum pump. Not to mention Ill be able to pressure wash the engine bay and what engine components I need too making it pretty and all haha. While its out Ill check my valve lash too. This thing should be dang near perfect and leak free...! Anything else I should do while its out? Any tips or tricks to chaining this engine? I have both lifting eyes still on the truck. Prolly just put a chain from mount to mount fairly tight then put a small clevis in the middle and lift away... Also If anyone knows connecting rod clearance (side to side) please let me know. I wiggled them side to side but it seemed to be maybe to much. Ill bring home some feeler gauges once I figure out what the spec is... Maybe I'm over analyzing it lol I can do a video of all these questions etc if that helps anyone. Also give a visual reference...

Yea, all new gaskets. I like using 515 in conjunction on everything, that's what we do at john deere. So no alignment that you know of?

So do you have to align the rear main housing?? I have a seal and speedy sleeve for the rear main, so I will install after housing is on. I also have the seal/sleeve install tool. The housing will have new gasket and I'll also add some loctite 515 on that and torque to ___??? I will also be doing pil pan gasket. I assume it's better to install housing first with out Goop on the bottom, then remove oil pan and do gasket etc there... Please advise!! Sorry need to get this done pretty quick and want getting any quick responses on my build thread.

As suspected, it's the input shaft seal... Maybe it was from setting so long... I put the usual 6 plus 2 for the fast coolers. the site glass on the fast cooler was prolly a little above it. Hopefully that's not over full. This time I'm gonna just add till its middle glass and not per what we usually do... what ya think? Gonna still do rear main and clean up the clutch... hope the oil didn't mess it up...

My thought was with it off and taking the adapter plate/mount off that I'd have room. Idk. I'll find out shortly...

Dont know the individual number but this hit was like 20$ from a very reputable transmission shop I visit regularly.

Trans is about to come out... just a guess but I think it's the transmission input seal.. will see shortly. I have the 1.50 seal just in case along with rear main + sleeve. Do yall think it's a good idea to do rear main then re assemble and do oil pan? I wouldn't know how to jack up the whole motor on the front with out trans on... Also I have the gasket for behind the rear main, should be pretty simple to replace?

Went and got all my gasket and seals from our local cummins store. Even got some install tools...

Tappers not leaking, I was only gonna add doing the tapper cover if I pulled the engine. More concerned about the others really...

Anyone else?? How would I lift up the motor with the trans off to do oil pan etc with the rear main? Maybe pull trans and do the rear main, re install. Then lift up motor and do pan gasket? Then finally do the front main seal? Also debating using rtv/permetex vs gasket and some anarobic sealer Also please see above for other questions^^ considering getting started on this tonight.

Thinking about doing it in the truck unless someone thinks all of this stuff would be easier and cleaner out of the truck. prolly going to buy my oil pan gasket, front and rear main seal at cummins order the speedy sleeve install tool and seal install tool from thoroughbred diesel (spilting it with some buddies) blue top steering gear ps pump, lines, vacuum re seal from genos if i pull engine ill do tappet cover too... this think hopefully wont drop a drip of oil.....! Thoughts on above ^^^?? Also needing more advice on engine pull or no.