Stanley

I'm pretty sure the "lens" if you will backing everything is a green tint right? Pretty sure mine was when I swapped to leds. Wouldn't you have to replace this lens/filter for any color change? I think having anything other than a clear bulb/led would be pointless. Not saying I don't like the idea, prolly would be neat to try out some different colored gauges if you could get past the lens.

I got a white overlay from LMC for $25 and I would just use amazon to get some lights to upgrade. I don't remember where I got mine but it was really cheap and still going strong.

Did anyone one have any insight on which seal or pn# to use? Mine kinda looks like @smokeythedodge on his write up, but I'm not for certain...

Flying debris...... oh wait I need that

Yes, sure is. Full replacement with clips- doesn't come with vents though. Love Geno's, all kinds of good things to say about them.

Well I guess a little update here: To piggy back on the CPP ordeal, I received my package (2 of 3) item Friday at 1530 right as I was leaving the shop. After all that with no means of reasonable communication, doesn't make since but whatever. Got my new dash installed- see pics, went way easier than I was anticipating, color difference is there but not super noticeable one pic shows it pretty good I believe, got my new bezel installed and new power/heated tow mirrors installed -parts truck had a mirror switch, and a new blower motor resistor... LMC- Dash $250 Geno's- Bezel $85 CPP*- Mirrors $130 Gonna pull CTM and heater controller from donor truck today or Monday. Then need to replace rear pinion seal and tailshaft seal on transfercase. @Silverwolf2691 the weep hole was in the 4-5 o'clock position but good news is I have 2 extra ones laying in the shop... I'll have to decipher which seal to get on the pinion. I forget who posted it but a member on here had a decent post on pinion seals here I read and had the seal options. I attached pics of my rear end (no pun intended) for reference- any help is appreciated. I also got to start working on re-upholstering my door panels and center console. I hate not having these...

Emailed again today asking to at least give me something..... I did get a response - We have these in stock - WTF.....Emailed back and no response God I wish this company was local.....

Well I used my debit card, hopefully same same. Wife called bank for me and they said we have to wait 30 days before they can start what ever process it is. Man this just pisses me off....

Didnt know where to put this but... Bought some stuff over a week ago from CPP Diesel, expected a tracking number same day or worst case next day, didn't show out of stock, ordered by noon. Couple of days go by, nothing, tried calling- they shut off their phones, emailed a couple of times mid week and was told I'll get a tracking number when it's processed nothing more. Second email they said they'll request tracking? Tried calling again just cause and nothing. Reached out again today via email for a refund and someone to contact me, with a very stern attitude via email or cell phone if possible and still nothing... All my previous orders have not been like this, shipped promptly and had good interactions. I am furious with this company right now! As of right now they are crooks in my eyes! DO NOT BUY FROM CPP DIESEL, you might be screwed like me...

Well I have recorded a few videos with my gopro but none have come out good. Way to much wind noise. Idk what it is, never had this problem while on my helmet riding atvs... so back to drawing board on that... maybe I'll just try my phone... Got my dash and bezel shipped in, also got my all my anti sway bar stuff in from genos, still might have to find bushing mount/retainer for sway bar bushings if I can't find them. Need to get those seals conjured up then lots of play time installing it all. I ordered new mirrors and filter from cpp diesel on 6-22 @ noon, still have yet to get a shipping confirmation. Even emailed them a couple of times- nothing. If I don't get something Monday rain or shine im canceling it. Items didn't show out of stock, and it's never taken this long for them to ship out on my previous orders, usually same day ship. Idk if a rep or someone from them is on this forum but if so maybe they can pass it up or let me at least know what's going on. Also just an FYI for anyone wanting to purchase through them. *end rant* lol

The caps and surrounding areas were hot, them being hot is a tell tell sign they are bad along with vibration, I (think) i can feel a little vibration which leads me to conclude. I rebuilt the entire transfer case myself which isnt terribly difficult, the rear seal is easy too, just dont know why it is failing with less than a 1,000 miles on it... hmm, Ill replace and go from there. I guess I dont really know the significance of the hole in the bottom, I think I put it at the bottom from reference but?? At work we have all kinds of big goodies! 3/4in and 1in impacts, torque multiplier if needed, got a RAD gun and a HYtorq - one goes to roughly 1250 ft lbs the other one goes to 5k or 6k ft lbs. Lots of fun stuff I get to play with Yea it is literally about to hit 150k either today or tomorrow lol. I"m gonna replace the transmission mount while I'm at it long with those seals. Whats the torque spec on the pinion? Or impact back on - to which Ive read some guys do - Usually torque spec matters especially on things that have bearings I'll have to research the proper way to adjust traction bars also...

This is true, thats what Ive read/learned way back and been using it as a standard. I brought my gopro to work today so Ill set it up for the drive home and see what I can come up with. Side note, I got home and checked my new u-joints had had done by a local shop just due to time - they where pretty dang hot, what gives.... Pinion seal is leaking so thats on the to do list and I have to replace the rear seal in the transfer case again I'm sure theres more lol I can never win. Maybe the pinion is worn out... I might take my traction bars off that might not be helping and hell I might not have them adjusted right

I'll trade you wrench time for bodywork! -HD Diesel grease monkey for John Deere Yellow machines. If u have the funds, might spring for getting a upgraded cam too. Don't forget to get all the little goodies like the upgraded freeze plugs/covers, tappet covers and gasket obviously, fuel plate block off since you'll have a fass, fluidamper, etc. DAP has alot of cool stuff like that.

I need to do this!

I really don't think it over oiled it with all I done to system. I can always recover the system, see how much oil is pulled out - it's never the same as initial injection, then go from there. Maybe put half of what comes out back in. It was really bad today on being lopy, actually died while braking up to a right hand turn at stop light before I could feather it out, that was nice trying to mash the pedal to the floor to not hit the guy in front of me, started right up and kept going. Way worse today for sure but I think being in more city traffic is the key there. Here's the kicker: When I bought the truck, nice farm boy, guys says he did pull with it at some point and it has the dragon flow vp, .093 lines/tubes and those nasty 6x18 injectors. I tried super hard to get something from industrial to verify pump but all the numbers I gave them don't correlate to nothing? So long story short I have no idea if it's exactly what was mentioned or not cause I didn't install this particular set... only reason I believe it true is it has some spunk, hazes like a MF at idle, and good God the amount of smoke this thing makes is crazy to not have something lol. I can peg a 60 psi boost gauge too... 64/71/14 turbo Edit: @dripley your story really sounds close to mine far as the lope mishap. I need to just make a silly video, quit forgetting so yall have a reference. @Silverwolf2691 it doesn't exactly sound like that, that's pretty pronounced just sitting at idle, then again I'm supposed to have that Hamilton cam so maybe that's a factor. I do have dual* valve springs*

Yea no walmart cans here lol. I guess there could some residual oil left maybe, I wouldn't think much though. I agree the fueling etc would have a big impact but why would it lope drastically more when AC is on to the point of it dying almost? Doesnt make sense that a compressor operating would even think about doing that Maybe I need to try and take a video of it?

I had the entire truck apart, everything was out, got new dryer and evaporator, not saying much but the condenser and compressor was removed rolled around tossed, moved over there lol. Kept everything thing I could capped but initially what could came out... From all the reading from around here I shot in the middle at ~7oz. I work at John deere so I got to use the AC machine It has done this before I changed anything, not to say it wasn't wrong before but jee wizz. It has a lope normally when you let out of it at pretty much any rpm going into neutral or clutch in. With AC on forget it, she drops way down low and almost kills it. Gotta clutch into neutral and hurry up and feather the throttle but even then it still lopes pretty decent after a couple 🪶... Never really sat and thought WHY? I drove it like like that for years.... But now I'm curious, is it my fueling/ injector setup...possibly? No I honestly haven't read any yet, I'll check on that, they look like a decent set, power angle and heat for that price, pretty intriguing.

I'll double check the donor truck year then pull ctm and swap then see what changes. BTW I don't have any security features on my rig. Just would really like remote unlock... Side note I got the AC system all charged/ oiled up, nice to have air again. Makes my engine lope like crazy and almost kills it all the time though.. Going to LMC mid July (only 3hr drive-save shipping) and pickup a dash and whatever ever else strikes my fancy I don't think I have a better option in sway bar stuff so I'm gonna use Genos and throw in that new bezel from them and maybe a gear shift knob Lights still undecided... Mirrors I'm gonna take the plunge and just go with CPP's brand. I'll prolly pull the steering box off of the donor 1500 and send it to blue top. They're quicker ratio I'm sure, might like that better than current one.

Anyone else have any pointers on CTM's? Or any other opinions/suggestions on these few items to purchase?

I read in the last link that the 2001+ CTM modules and instrument clusters are different than previous years... Something to think about I guess, my donor truck is older so idk... Still trying to wrap my head around all this = confused. The other stuff is easy, more less opinions, experience, etc. Hope to get some of those answers so I can start spending money and ordering stuff lol.

I forgot I took a picture of what I believed to be the CTM. Best picture I could get of it. Looks like it matches the baseline model one @Silverwolf2691 posted. I do have power windows/ locks. When I get mirrors, I'll swap in the power adjust knob from my donor truck - harness is already in my current truck for power and heat - only those 2 connectors at that location? If I added keyless entry would that matter, or would an upgrade be needed?

If it is CTM issue, is it a simple swap or is it more involved? I think I read somewhere their might be some reprogramming? I do have a donor truck, it's a 98 ish- 1500, maybe it's possible to use that one?

I can't wait to see it all there again. Hopefully Genos bezel is a complete one, it's half the price of LMC's. Guess I'll need more input on which way to go, see what anyone else has to say. Looks like it's a toss up... Sometimes they will stop mid stroke but most of the time it's just stuck on one (higher intermittent) setting then low speed or high speed. If I shut it off before it's down all the way it will stay where ever it's at. Door locks just don't work at all either side, even tried different switches. DOR has some nice stuff! I love the whole steering setup. It was hard to find an alignment shop that knew how to align it coincidently lol... Won't have to worry about it again after installing it. I'd highly suggest it.

@dripley check this out - Bezel. Ill email Genos just to verify, but it states its a direct replacement with clips. If it is correct Im sure alot of people will jump to go buy one!

Yea it's been aligned a couple times, might not hurt to do it again though. I've also got a new borgeson steering shift, thought that would take up most of it but it only helped narrow it down to the source mostly. I never have done any adjusting on the box myself, honestly didn't know it was a thing. I'll have to research how to do that. @dripley Both LMC and Genos have their dashes around $260 which isn't bad, the more I read LMC seems to be preferred and I think I won't regret not having to paint it lol. And again $87 ish for a complete replacement bezel- vents, is a steal. I agree on the toss up on lights, theirs not a ton of options but what we have available is a great improvement than original. I really don't have much experience with projectors, fairly new to me honestly. I do have the wiring for the mirrors, heat and power. I have a parts truck that has the adjustment knob I'll just have to source a new thermostat control switch as you mentioned. I've read that the CTM controls quite a bit, has alot to do with a security system too. I'd really like to add a remote unlock/lock, maybe nows the time? I'll really need some help on this issue I'm afraid, I'd be simple if it was just the switch on the column and door switches... I have tried lock switches from my donor truck, and all fuses and swapped relays- no change. Don't hear any clicking- but that don't mean much, I'm half deaf from all the boom booms haha.