Stanley

The caps and surrounding areas were hot, them being hot is a tell tell sign they are bad along with vibration, I (think) i can feel a little vibration which leads me to conclude. I rebuilt the entire transfer case myself which isnt terribly difficult, the rear seal is easy too, just dont know why it is failing with less than a 1,000 miles on it... hmm, Ill replace and go from there. I guess I dont really know the significance of the hole in the bottom, I think I put it at the bottom from reference but?? At work we have all kinds of big goodies! 3/4in and 1in impacts, torque multiplier if needed, got a RAD gun and a HYtorq - one goes to roughly 1250 ft lbs the other one goes to 5k or 6k ft lbs. Lots of fun stuff I get to play with Yea it is literally about to hit 150k either today or tomorrow lol. I"m gonna replace the transmission mount while I'm at it long with those seals. Whats the torque spec on the pinion? Or impact back on - to which Ive read some guys do - Usually torque spec matters especially on things that have bearings I'll have to research the proper way to adjust traction bars also...

This is true, thats what Ive read/learned way back and been using it as a standard. I brought my gopro to work today so Ill set it up for the drive home and see what I can come up with. Side note, I got home and checked my new u-joints had had done by a local shop just due to time - they where pretty dang hot, what gives.... Pinion seal is leaking so thats on the to do list and I have to replace the rear seal in the transfer case again I'm sure theres more lol I can never win. Maybe the pinion is worn out... I might take my traction bars off that might not be helping and hell I might not have them adjusted right

I'll trade you wrench time for bodywork! -HD Diesel grease monkey for John Deere Yellow machines. If u have the funds, might spring for getting a upgraded cam too. Don't forget to get all the little goodies like the upgraded freeze plugs/covers, tappet covers and gasket obviously, fuel plate block off since you'll have a fass, fluidamper, etc. DAP has alot of cool stuff like that.

I need to do this!

I really don't think it over oiled it with all I done to system. I can always recover the system, see how much oil is pulled out - it's never the same as initial injection, then go from there. Maybe put half of what comes out back in. It was really bad today on being lopy, actually died while braking up to a right hand turn at stop light before I could feather it out, that was nice trying to mash the pedal to the floor to not hit the guy in front of me, started right up and kept going. Way worse today for sure but I think being in more city traffic is the key there. Here's the kicker: When I bought the truck, nice farm boy, guys says he did pull with it at some point and it has the dragon flow vp, .093 lines/tubes and those nasty 6x18 injectors. I tried super hard to get something from industrial to verify pump but all the numbers I gave them don't correlate to nothing? So long story short I have no idea if it's exactly what was mentioned or not cause I didn't install this particular set... only reason I believe it true is it has some spunk, hazes like a MF at idle, and good God the amount of smoke this thing makes is crazy to not have something lol. I can peg a 60 psi boost gauge too... 64/71/14 turbo Edit: @dripley your story really sounds close to mine far as the lope mishap. I need to just make a silly video, quit forgetting so yall have a reference. @Silverwolf2691 it doesn't exactly sound like that, that's pretty pronounced just sitting at idle, then again I'm supposed to have that Hamilton cam so maybe that's a factor. I do have dual* valve springs*

Yea no walmart cans here lol. I guess there could some residual oil left maybe, I wouldn't think much though. I agree the fueling etc would have a big impact but why would it lope drastically more when AC is on to the point of it dying almost? Doesnt make sense that a compressor operating would even think about doing that Maybe I need to try and take a video of it?

I had the entire truck apart, everything was out, got new dryer and evaporator, not saying much but the condenser and compressor was removed rolled around tossed, moved over there lol. Kept everything thing I could capped but initially what could came out... From all the reading from around here I shot in the middle at ~7oz. I work at John deere so I got to use the AC machine It has done this before I changed anything, not to say it wasn't wrong before but jee wizz. It has a lope normally when you let out of it at pretty much any rpm going into neutral or clutch in. With AC on forget it, she drops way down low and almost kills it. Gotta clutch into neutral and hurry up and feather the throttle but even then it still lopes pretty decent after a couple 🪶... Never really sat and thought WHY? I drove it like like that for years.... But now I'm curious, is it my fueling/ injector setup...possibly? No I honestly haven't read any yet, I'll check on that, they look like a decent set, power angle and heat for that price, pretty intriguing.

I'll double check the donor truck year then pull ctm and swap then see what changes. BTW I don't have any security features on my rig. Just would really like remote unlock... Side note I got the AC system all charged/ oiled up, nice to have air again. Makes my engine lope like crazy and almost kills it all the time though.. Going to LMC mid July (only 3hr drive-save shipping) and pickup a dash and whatever ever else strikes my fancy I don't think I have a better option in sway bar stuff so I'm gonna use Genos and throw in that new bezel from them and maybe a gear shift knob Lights still undecided... Mirrors I'm gonna take the plunge and just go with CPP's brand. I'll prolly pull the steering box off of the donor 1500 and send it to blue top. They're quicker ratio I'm sure, might like that better than current one.

Anyone else have any pointers on CTM's? Or any other opinions/suggestions on these few items to purchase?

I read in the last link that the 2001+ CTM modules and instrument clusters are different than previous years... Something to think about I guess, my donor truck is older so idk... Still trying to wrap my head around all this = confused. The other stuff is easy, more less opinions, experience, etc. Hope to get some of those answers so I can start spending money and ordering stuff lol.

I forgot I took a picture of what I believed to be the CTM. Best picture I could get of it. Looks like it matches the baseline model one @Silverwolf2691 posted. I do have power windows/ locks. When I get mirrors, I'll swap in the power adjust knob from my donor truck - harness is already in my current truck for power and heat - only those 2 connectors at that location? If I added keyless entry would that matter, or would an upgrade be needed?

If it is CTM issue, is it a simple swap or is it more involved? I think I read somewhere their might be some reprogramming? I do have a donor truck, it's a 98 ish- 1500, maybe it's possible to use that one?

I can't wait to see it all there again. Hopefully Genos bezel is a complete one, it's half the price of LMC's. Guess I'll need more input on which way to go, see what anyone else has to say. Looks like it's a toss up... Sometimes they will stop mid stroke but most of the time it's just stuck on one (higher intermittent) setting then low speed or high speed. If I shut it off before it's down all the way it will stay where ever it's at. Door locks just don't work at all either side, even tried different switches. DOR has some nice stuff! I love the whole steering setup. It was hard to find an alignment shop that knew how to align it coincidently lol... Won't have to worry about it again after installing it. I'd highly suggest it.

@dripley check this out - Bezel. Ill email Genos just to verify, but it states its a direct replacement with clips. If it is correct Im sure alot of people will jump to go buy one!

Yea it's been aligned a couple times, might not hurt to do it again though. I've also got a new borgeson steering shift, thought that would take up most of it but it only helped narrow it down to the source mostly. I never have done any adjusting on the box myself, honestly didn't know it was a thing. I'll have to research how to do that. @dripley Both LMC and Genos have their dashes around $260 which isn't bad, the more I read LMC seems to be preferred and I think I won't regret not having to paint it lol. And again $87 ish for a complete replacement bezel- vents, is a steal. I agree on the toss up on lights, theirs not a ton of options but what we have available is a great improvement than original. I really don't have much experience with projectors, fairly new to me honestly. I do have the wiring for the mirrors, heat and power. I have a parts truck that has the adjustment knob I'll just have to source a new thermostat control switch as you mentioned. I've read that the CTM controls quite a bit, has alot to do with a security system too. I'd really like to add a remote unlock/lock, maybe nows the time? I'll really need some help on this issue I'm afraid, I'd be simple if it was just the switch on the column and door switches... I have tried lock switches from my donor truck, and all fuses and swapped relays- no change. Don't hear any clicking- but that don't mean much, I'm half deaf from all the boom booms haha.

Had the same issue, no start and just a single click. Checked voltages and wiring next was the starter. Pulled it out and tore into it, found some badly worn contacts! Quick and easy fix to just re-build re-install and move on. Cheap and easy.

If you dont use it you lose it! They are not bad to re-build at all. Fairly simple and cheap honestly, maybe take a day at most.

Hey all, been quite a while since I been on, had alot going on. Stepped out of the Military-may go back in?, moved into a new house, jobs, kids etc you know. Had the truck LITERALLY completely torn apart: re-sealed engine minus head, completely rebuilt the NV5600 and transfercase, new clutch - which is making some very strange noises, sound deadened the whole cab, re-sealed the hvac box top to bottom, new heater core, evaporator, drier, headliner, wheels and tires; I mean the works! Ill have to maybe make a post with all the pictures? I don't know how to add that many pics though. If youd like to see it all give me a shout and how to do it and ill throw it up. Any how, down to the good stuff. I have multiple topics id like some discussion over/ questions answered. They are all non-powertrain related so I feel it appropriate to group them here, if not Ill gladly make separate topics to keep everything organized. I guess Ill start with the dash. I have been looking, reading and researching the DASH. Came across alot of topics here including @Dieselfuture post Time for a new Dash. I think I have decided on going with LMC dash cause I really don't wanna mess with painting it and trying to get it to match I have spent alot of time already with my dash out fiber glassing the top and bottom in hopes of making a custom dash top (see pic) and I don't wanna mess with it no more, I'd be cheaper off to just buy one. In that same realm Ill be purchasing a new dash bezel from Geno's for 87$ - no brainer. Next on the list is sway bar stuff. I have a 34mm front and a 24mm rear sway bar. They have been off for years, I don't do that much offroading in this rig and I hate the body roll- sometimes. So I'm gonna re-build them and put them back on. With that I am thinking of using Geno's to get the Energy Suspension bushings - still waiting to see if they can get the rear ones, and also front and rear end links from them. Need to see if I can even find the bushing retainers to bolt on from when I took them off...... Thoughts on this? Lights! These things suck! I have read the article on here for the sport light conversion with projectors. More than likely Ill go that route - with the detailed instructions. Where is the best place to get those lights at now a days? Any further improvements or light availability come about? I found Anzo Lights from CPP Diesel that look pretty decent, but I'm after quality and some bright a$$ lights so I can see. So I need opinions. Second light topic is cab lights. I have (smoked colored) my original ones long time ago cause that was hip, and had led's in them, now I'd like to get something updated and nicer looking, even if its new OEM style ones. Been looking at Recon cab lights... Any thoughts or users of those? Mirrors! going to replace my stiff broken tow-mirrors with something like Spyder X-tune Mirrors from CPP Diesel that are powered and heated. Any other preference? Lastly I will probably need to replace my steering gear box. I have everything replaced with DOR parts, great stuff, minus the track bar. I have slop left to right while driving straight down the hwy, it gets really bad wander (hard to keep center) when I try to (quickly) change lanes or go over some (whoops) down a back road. Like I have to correct my correction . So after alot of reading I have found that Blue Top is the more gooder way to go. However they are back-ordered now but who isn't... Thoughts on RED vs BLUE? Ill probably make a separate topic on this one but my wiper delay and power locks dont work anymore. Through my research it leads to the CTM, to which I have no experience with... I think that is all I got for now lol. Quite a bit to swallow in one bite but there it is... Again I have done so much to this puppy and have lots of pics I could show it off or if anyone is curious on something or just nosy I'd be happy to share if I knew how to do it. I greatly appreciate any feed back, comments, suggestions you would have for me. Thank you for reading through all that!

Tried epoxy to fix my broken tabs x3 on my pillar. Worked well till I parked truck outside and come back later to see it not attached anymore . Gonna try one more time to secure it, but I need to start looking for a new A pillar. Any thoughts, comments, advise on picking up a new one? If this mask BS goes away maybe go to a junk yard, but around here might not be so lucky. Rather see if some company had them NIB I could get.

GL5 80-90 FOR AXLES, GOOD OLE ATF FOR THE T-CASE.

I've got a couple of tan wires I'll have to probe and see if I can get any variable resistance. I guess maybe I'll recheck bulbs in the gauge cluster, if not that maybe that switch. Its bugging me everything works except back lights...

Switch could be bad but it hasnt given me any troubles before. Checked fuses but all looked good, guess one could be bad anyway. Am I missing something on getting the gauge back lights working? Also installing gauges and would want dimmable option, I have only have positive and negative lead wires. I also dont remember wiring and installing gauge pods to be so difficult, I am having a time getting everything sorted out and routed. Edit: tabs on a pillar broke so time to epoxy... before they broke still had some wobble to the whole thing...

Thank yall so much, now I'm tracking on what I need to do. Thanks for the kinds words JAG1 just finished alot of work on the entire drive train engine, trans, and t case was completely gutted and redone and rebuilt minus engine internals. Alot of other stuff too. Rocking on 2 years of work to this dang thing. This last little hiccup threw me for a loop. Gonna replace alternator just cause its prolly toast by now? And batteries are pretty old.

@Tractorman I guess I should have stated checking continuity/ohms lol in that wire just to make sure I had the same wire end to end. Now that I found the end of the alt cable I have forgotten where it goes, hence the video etc. Which kinda explains it all. I can make another one to help clarify if that helps. Where does it go?

I agree, however the batteries were charged on a trickle charger prior to and motor rolled over rather quickly. I dont doubt that the batteries could still be bad though.. If you by chance had time to watch that video, that main wire should go where? Is that the one that goes to the fuse box, and you suggested to route it directly to the passenger side pos. battery?