Stanley

Had the same issue, no start and just a single click. Checked voltages and wiring next was the starter. Pulled it out and tore into it, found some badly worn contacts! Quick and easy fix to just re-build re-install and move on. Cheap and easy.

If you dont use it you lose it! They are not bad to re-build at all. Fairly simple and cheap honestly, maybe take a day at most.

Hey all, been quite a while since I been on, had alot going on. Stepped out of the Military-may go back in?, moved into a new house, jobs, kids etc you know. Had the truck LITERALLY completely torn apart: re-sealed engine minus head, completely rebuilt the NV5600 and transfercase, new clutch - which is making some very strange noises, sound deadened the whole cab, re-sealed the hvac box top to bottom, new heater core, evaporator, drier, headliner, wheels and tires; I mean the works! Ill have to maybe make a post with all the pictures? I don't know how to add that many pics though. If youd like to see it all give me a shout and how to do it and ill throw it up. Any how, down to the good stuff. I have multiple topics id like some discussion over/ questions answered. They are all non-powertrain related so I feel it appropriate to group them here, if not Ill gladly make separate topics to keep everything organized. I guess Ill start with the dash. I have been looking, reading and researching the DASH. Came across alot of topics here including @Dieselfuture post Time for a new Dash. I think I have decided on going with LMC dash cause I really don't wanna mess with painting it and trying to get it to match I have spent alot of time already with my dash out fiber glassing the top and bottom in hopes of making a custom dash top (see pic) and I don't wanna mess with it no more, I'd be cheaper off to just buy one. In that same realm Ill be purchasing a new dash bezel from Geno's for 87$ - no brainer. Next on the list is sway bar stuff. I have a 34mm front and a 24mm rear sway bar. They have been off for years, I don't do that much offroading in this rig and I hate the body roll- sometimes. So I'm gonna re-build them and put them back on. With that I am thinking of using Geno's to get the Energy Suspension bushings - still waiting to see if they can get the rear ones, and also front and rear end links from them. Need to see if I can even find the bushing retainers to bolt on from when I took them off...... Thoughts on this? Lights! These things suck! I have read the article on here for the sport light conversion with projectors. More than likely Ill go that route - with the detailed instructions. Where is the best place to get those lights at now a days? Any further improvements or light availability come about? I found Anzo Lights from CPP Diesel that look pretty decent, but I'm after quality and some bright a$$ lights so I can see. So I need opinions. Second light topic is cab lights. I have (smoked colored) my original ones long time ago cause that was hip, and had led's in them, now I'd like to get something updated and nicer looking, even if its new OEM style ones. Been looking at Recon cab lights... Any thoughts or users of those? Mirrors! going to replace my stiff broken tow-mirrors with something like Spyder X-tune Mirrors from CPP Diesel that are powered and heated. Any other preference? Lastly I will probably need to replace my steering gear box. I have everything replaced with DOR parts, great stuff, minus the track bar. I have slop left to right while driving straight down the hwy, it gets really bad wander (hard to keep center) when I try to (quickly) change lanes or go over some (whoops) down a back road. Like I have to correct my correction . So after alot of reading I have found that Blue Top is the more gooder way to go. However they are back-ordered now but who isn't... Thoughts on RED vs BLUE? Ill probably make a separate topic on this one but my wiper delay and power locks dont work anymore. Through my research it leads to the CTM, to which I have no experience with... I think that is all I got for now lol. Quite a bit to swallow in one bite but there it is... Again I have done so much to this puppy and have lots of pics I could show it off or if anyone is curious on something or just nosy I'd be happy to share if I knew how to do it. I greatly appreciate any feed back, comments, suggestions you would have for me. Thank you for reading through all that!

Tried epoxy to fix my broken tabs x3 on my pillar. Worked well till I parked truck outside and come back later to see it not attached anymore . Gonna try one more time to secure it, but I need to start looking for a new A pillar. Any thoughts, comments, advise on picking up a new one? If this mask BS goes away maybe go to a junk yard, but around here might not be so lucky. Rather see if some company had them NIB I could get.

GL5 80-90 FOR AXLES, GOOD OLE ATF FOR THE T-CASE.

I've got a couple of tan wires I'll have to probe and see if I can get any variable resistance. I guess maybe I'll recheck bulbs in the gauge cluster, if not that maybe that switch. Its bugging me everything works except back lights...

Switch could be bad but it hasnt given me any troubles before. Checked fuses but all looked good, guess one could be bad anyway. Am I missing something on getting the gauge back lights working? Also installing gauges and would want dimmable option, I have only have positive and negative lead wires. I also dont remember wiring and installing gauge pods to be so difficult, I am having a time getting everything sorted out and routed. Edit: tabs on a pillar broke so time to epoxy... before they broke still had some wobble to the whole thing...

Thank yall so much, now I'm tracking on what I need to do. Thanks for the kinds words JAG1 just finished alot of work on the entire drive train engine, trans, and t case was completely gutted and redone and rebuilt minus engine internals. Alot of other stuff too. Rocking on 2 years of work to this dang thing. This last little hiccup threw me for a loop. Gonna replace alternator just cause its prolly toast by now? And batteries are pretty old.

@Tractorman I guess I should have stated checking continuity/ohms lol in that wire just to make sure I had the same wire end to end. Now that I found the end of the alt cable I have forgotten where it goes, hence the video etc. Which kinda explains it all. I can make another one to help clarify if that helps. Where does it go?

I agree, however the batteries were charged on a trickle charger prior to and motor rolled over rather quickly. I dont doubt that the batteries could still be bad though.. If you by chance had time to watch that video, that main wire should go where? Is that the one that goes to the fuse box, and you suggested to route it directly to the passenger side pos. battery?

Batteries did sit for awhile, I think batteries and alternator is to blame. I ohm the main cable from alternator over to battery. Should it go to pos. neg. or the missing terminal place. Here is a Video of everything I took real quick. Hope the link works.

I guess I'm confused on what I'm missing at the fuse box. If I can find what I did or didnt hook up to that location I can go from there. After that missing link is found I can then proceed with possibly doing the w-t mod. If that makes sense. Thanks.

Got a hot alternator like really hot, smelled it cooking. Looked at a few topic on here, started tracing wires. I previously rebuilt the whole harness-check all wires and re sheathed, tape, etc. My dumb a$$ forgot one wire the ground on the fuse box. Attached pic is what I missed. Is this wire straight to ground/frame? If it is I know which wire I need to use... Additionally could this mistake cause the hot alternator? Both alternator and batteries are old... alternator I assume to be original, batteries around 5-6 years. Batteries took trickle charge and started truck up fine. Thank you.

Awesome stuff man. I appreciate the help. I'll be doing this today/tomorrow. I'll do a video of the engine before it goes in to show it off.

Are you just talking about the rear seal where the yoke goes into the t-case? I can get the whole set up here for like 20$. I use these guys all the time, awesome people too!

So finally got back to actually working on the rig. I think I asked the question before but dont remember or cant find it. So I'll upload a short video on this but I have rear main and oil pan about to go on. I am uncertain on which I should first... Oil pan then rear main or vice versa...

I got a vacuum pump rebuild from Gould. And new ps lines and a new ps pump both borgson. All three are you get at Genos Garage. There's even a video straight from gould on how to do the vacuum pump rebuild step by step if your unsure. Total worth it.

X2 on Napa

I read you added coolant, and talking about A/C stuff?? If anything is wrong with the core, just replace it, their stupid cheap. Also replace your drier at the same time. Do like the others said use soapy water all over lines and check for any leaks. It may be time to pull the dash... the m73m article nails it down, I also have my own thread of complete removing everything inside the interior of that helps you..

Sounds like a mess. Dont be wiring stuff together like that-NO That's a basket of worms I've never seen before.

Here's is another link to a video I made on truck... let me know of it doesn't work.

Oh boy, you ain't lyin...

So here ya go, you can press them out. Used a 1 inch drive 2 3/8 socket and an old bushing from a machine as a push through, worked like a charm. I did have to cut the bolt end off but someone's else's case maybe different cause mine were froze in. You will have to use a press to get them out... I'll clean them up, paint them. Then order a set of poly bushings to put in. If anyone need exact dimensions let me know I saved old inserts. Just in case you folks wanted to lathe a custom press tool. The socket worked great, GP, brand, but there is always room for improvement...

Yea, possibly it was already tweaked/bent and finally went...