NIsaacs

That's pretty good for a stock type clutch disk and your power level. I went with a stage one upgrade when I did mine. It is a little noisy at an idle with gear rollover. It will be interesting to see what the tranny looks like. Picture of my stage one clutch disk (Sachs) and oem flywheel.

Interstate-McBee for Cummins #4932124 @ $13.08 and #3942915 @ $9.00. https://usdieselparts.com/i-21260592-oil-cooler-gasket-3942914-93-03-dodge-5-9l-b-series-12v-or-isb-with-vp44.html?ref=category:778633 https://usdieselparts.com/i-21260591-oil-cooler-gasket-3942915-93-03-dodge-5-9l-b-series-12v-or-isb-with-vp44.html?ref=category:778633 Or if you want genuine Cummins, $40.00 https://picclick.com/Cummins-ISB-Encore-STORM-Oil-Cooler-Gasket-SET-191824827293.html Or Napa/Mahle $47.49: https://www.napaonline.com/en/search/engines-parts-gaskets/gaskets-seals-engine/auto-parts/dodge_truck/ram_2500_3_4_ton_-_pickup/2001?q=N%3D2500010%2B2601003%2B5002000%2B5002200%2B200220100%2B10200100%2B402203300%2B599999900%2B50450200%2B50499900%2B50600700%2B50699900%2B2804007%26Ns%3DP_CatScatSequence10_3&referer=PLP&leftNav=leftNav Mahle GS33913 @ $36.49 https://cppdiesel.com/mahle-gs33913-oil-cooler-kit-dodge-trk-5-9l-isb-24v-cummins-1998-02/

Yes, but I think the point of this thread was finding the oem manufactures and buying direct for cheaper. I don't know for a fact, but chances are Bosch makes the tube for Cummins and Mopar. Just helping out.....

Genuine Bosch tube from DAP $25.00 https://www.dieselautopower.com/bosch-cross-over-fuel-connector-tube-f00zr20002

Try again, what? I just pointed out that the 2000-2002 used a 58mm stat, but the Cummins 190F 3946849 pictured, suggests it is 55mm, and I asked how could that be?? If it is, it is going to leak past the seal on a 58mm bore and run cold.

Still using the Cummins 3946849 190F stat, that is linked above by Mike and I, under the fitment notes, it says: "requires a 55 mm housing bore". I believe it should be 58mm. I wonder what that is all about?

I have been doing a lot of research on the thermostat for these trucks. Trying to find out why some are different design. I found this info on the Cummins 190F 3946849. It lists for the 2000-2002 Dodge, but then they go on to say this: "First Used on MY03 PRE-S0 Revised Bypass Depth. " Huh?? The picture in the link appears to look just like the Napa one that wouldn't work for me.....It may or not mean something..... I also found a TSB 07-08-98 for the thermostat failure on the 98.5 - 99. http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/07-08-98.htm Link to Cummins 190F stat. https://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=Awr9Du2Ynk1dPwQADENXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTByM3V1YTVuBGNvbG8DZ3ExBHBvcwMzBHZ0aWQDBHNlYwNzcg--/RV=2/RE=1565396760/RO=10/RU=https%3a%2f%2fwww.thoroughbreddiesel.com%2f3946849%2f/RK=2/RS=0ILHhJw2ozPuUfEUe0n.Qfzo_ZM-

I don't recall anyone saying to go all OEM or all aftermarket. I use tons of aftermarket, mostly Napa products. I also use tons of OEM. I have 2 John Deere and 1 Case/IH tractors, a Bobcat loader and a Haybuster tub grinder. Try and buy aftermarket parts for them. Or 2 Honda quads, a Craftsman Garden tractor, a Swisher brush cutter, Troybuilt tiller and four chainsaws, try and buy aftermarket for them. If the part is offered, mostly that is where I get them, aftermarket. However, normally only small simple parts. Nothing major is offered. I do all my own repair, 100%. My Cummins thermostat worked, my Napa didn't, period. My oem fan clutch works, my Napa/Haden (2) didn't. Currently on my second lifetime water pump, aftermarket. Same for my alternator (2), aftermarket. My aftermarket (Sachs) clutch is fine so far (120k miles on it. I got 80k miles out of 2 Precision u-joints so I went to the severe duty, so far so good. I have 300k miles on a set of OEM Bosch injectors (RV275's) . I just made a round trip haul to Phoenix (small trailer and load) 422 miles, 24.6 gallons of fuel for a 17.15 mpg. Nothing wrong with my truck and "I" am the only one that works on it. Just because we work on our rigs different, don't make it wrong, just different. What works for one, may not work for another. Picture of OEM augers for my tub grinder and the repair.....

OP, Did you read this? Every thing I described is in the Napa link you posted. Click on all four units that fit your truck and read the specs and make a choice. The info is all there.

I don't know who the vendor is, but whoever it is they will manufacture to Cummins specs. You say the 2019 is different but without a part number it is hard to say. That t-stat looks like a 12 valve style. Maybe it was packaged wrong....

Anyone that works on their own vehicle knows this. My point is, oem has different specs than the aftermarket, they will fit and work. Aftermarket will usually fit and might work.

What is the part# of your current Cummins t-stat and temp? Mine is #5292742 180* bought in 12-18. If you do some research you will find that Stant and Gates are the same as my Cummins#, they will say "OE Type". Napa/Motorad will say "OE Temp". If you look up Napa's old number 457180 it will show as " OE Exact" https://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=Awr9Fq5eKUhdS3IAwBZXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTByb2lvbXVuBGNvbG8DZ3ExBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDBHNlYwNzcg--/RV=2/RE=1565039070/RO=10/RU=https%3a%2f%2fwww.napaonline.com%2fen%2fp%2fMRD457180/RK=2/RS=EwtqBSBP0ydFcDMA6xvErz6bx80- In my use, the Napa did not work, the Cummins does.

I just changed mine out with the same combo, however, mine is green.

The standard in stock Napa thermostat is Motorad for the 180 or 190. They offer a 190 Safe-T-Stat special order, it is the fail safe type. They also offer a stainless steel one, special order. I had major issues with my Napa 180, went to a Cummins 180 and all is well. I haul heavy, in steep country, in hot weather. Driving around empty, the Napa 180 was fine. Note the difference in design of the Cummins (far left) and the Napa (far right) these are both 180. The middle one is a 190 but not sure of the make. Be sure and click on the pictures and blow them up for a real good look.

I used this in my heater core about 5 years ago, heater works good. What flushed out was nasty. Just did a new coolant change/flush again. The heater core was clean this time. I seem to only get 5 gallons on a change. I used Water Wetter this time.

I would check for vacuum leaks.

I think 3rd gen brakes need 17" wheels.

I would install a rebuild kit, they come with the 6 control valves. Like I said, they fail regularly. Also, the lash adjustment is important.

Here is another junky Hayden fan clutch customer that fixed it with oem. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/what-would-cause-a-new-fan-clutch-to-remain-engaged-at-all-times.267100/#post-2597325 https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/what-would-cause-a-new-fan-clutch-to-remain-engaged-at-all-times.267100/#post-2597327

It is possible you have the wrong lash adjuster, they are sized by your turbo and how much retarding turbo boost you make. Here is a link to the lash adjuster kits depending on your CPL and turbo type. Also, I had to replace my control valves quite often, the hydraulic valve spool. https://www.powerlinecomponents.com/cecparts/cecpg55.htm

Some good info here: https://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=Awr9DtEe.S1dT7IA4p9XNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTByNWU4cGh1BGNvbG8DZ3ExBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDBHNlYwNzYw--/RV=2/RE=1563322783/RO=10/RU=https%3a%2f%2fstaging.powerdrivendiesel.com%2fdifference-vco-sac-injectors%2f/RK=2/RS=OTvToR8X4SM4gaOlfb_kXpFN3d0-

On my '01 that wire is bolted/grounded to the ABS bracket. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/posts/2418061/

The new Cummins is on the far left, far right is new Napa, It don't work!! Both 180's, the center one is an old 190.

Mine will lock with AC on in town and unlock as I leave town. The condenser will create enough heat to engage the clutch without having high coolant temps. If AC is off then my clutch stays in free wheel mode in town. I do have a rather large power steering cooler that probably helps add heat to slow speed/low RPM driving. I also run a 180 stat. I think that might add some early heat to the radiator during slow speed. I recommend oem Mopar clutch. I tried two Napa/Haden clutches with zero luck, they don't work right.

Do not pause in the run position before start. Go instantly from off to start when hot.