NIsaacs

What were you towing/load? Most goosenecks will do this, sometimes even empty. I have never been able to put a finger on it. It is not the shocks nor the truck, it is the trailer. It bothers my dually (air bags) worse than my '01 Dodge (no bags). I kind of figured it was because the trailer does not have shocks. The tandem axle/equalizers spring trailer is worse than the torsion but the torsion will do it too, usually when empty.

Some good info here: https://mopar1973man.com/topic/17481-installed-a-new-bw-k27-turbo-for-my-01/

Probably a typo, Tuner is my guess.

Have checked your clutch peddle linkage for wear in the pins and bushings? Since it has a short throw a small amount of wear can make a difference.

You don't suggest what? The OP asked how to tell if the truck had limited slip or open diff. The question was in reference to friction modifier or not. My response was just get oil with the modifier included, it will be fine for either axle. Most quality oil already has it included. All my oil recommendations for this thread are right out of my '01 operators manual.

Just get the oil that includes the fiction modifier, it will work fine in a non limited slip too. That way you are covered.

That sounds like the turbo to manifold gasket starting to go. Soot don't always show up right away, I would look real close at that. If it is on the bottom it would be hard to see. Check all bolts on the exhaust manifold, they like to fall out.

When did you change oil/flush the system last? I would do that and I recommend Red Line synthetic power steering fluid, it stopped my groan.

I would use 80w-90 for the front and if you tow, 85w-140 for the rear or if you prefer 75w-140 synthetic. If you have limited slip in the rear you need to use additive or some oil has it included. T-case calls for ATF+4. Not sure what you mean by "sealing materials". If you mean the diff covers, a good quality RTV sealer works or if you want, Napa will have or can order the gaskets for them.

Looks like my dash, same crack and hole, Lol I really like the looks of the overhead set, but yes, your eyes would be off the road. My eyes take a while to focus on gauges. Mine are in the same place as drip's, I mostly monitor my monitor now. The paper plate is to keep the sun off my monitor, the heat will shut it off.

Must be the same local Coke driver we have here. I was at the Maverick station when the Coke truck tried to leave, slight uphill. First try he killed the engine, second try he revved it up, went about 6" and killed it again. Third try he screamed it, all the way to the exit barely moving!! I was mad, Lol. Had a busy week, hauled/delivered 18 loads of cinders in 8 days. I checked fuel mileage for 3 consecutive days, same haul, same loads, average was 13.1 mpg. This is with my dump, 26k loaded and 15k empty. Anxious to see what the new injectors will do.

The '03-'07 5.9 Fleetguard filter is 7 micron, the '00-'02 is 10. However, the Napa/Wix is 7 micron for the '00-'02, that's what I use. I did order the tubes with my new RV's, just because...still waiting on the backordered injectors. This thread/issue was fixed with the new tubes. https://mopar1973man.com/topic/9721-odd-injector-misfire/

I agree, they are important. This video is of a common rail with higher pressures than the VP, but..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2xnV27QI1s

Without knowing truck specifics this doesn't mean much. My '01 with 400hp/900tq, 3.55's, 285's and 6spd, is not slow. For three years in a row, I followed the truck pull circuit in the Rocky Mountain states towing my sled puller (19k gcw) 12k miles per year. My three year average mpg is 12.5 mpg. 5th gear (direct) will pull a house. Yesterday, I hauled 4 heavy loads of cinders, 8 hours and never got out of 5th, all local slow roads. Not using overdrive (6th) my tranny never got over 160*, plus any overdrive uses more fuel in any given towing distance v/s direct drive if all is equal. When my truck was a daily driver for work (8years) 4.10's would have drove me crazy. NVH at 75 mph w/4.10's is real with these old trucks. With 3.55's I have good freeway gears and good off highway gears, that's what the transmission is for, changing ratios. The 6spd shines here v/s 5spd's or 4spd autos. The upshift gap with a 5spd and heavy load sucks (4.10's help) with a 6spd the gap is way less so (3.55's) work. Why run 2600 rpm when 2100 will do the same job? Less NVH, better fuel economy, less wear and tear and the Cummins likes it. And, the gear ratio debate lives on, if I have seen one thread, I have seen a thousand, Lol

Most auto parts stores will have the additive in one brand or another, I would think any of them would be fine. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/KW_402508?partTypeName=Gear+Oil+Additive&keywordInput=friction+modifier https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/lubegard-4125/chemicals---fluids-16461/maintenance-chemicals-16867/grease---lube-16582/gear-oil---additives-16905/gear-oil---additives-19589/235bd5f02420/lubegard-mixture-limited-slip-friction-modifier/42851/4409964/2001/dodge/ram-2500?q=gear+oil+-+additives&pos=1

Since our pumps are direct drive, no side loading of the bearing like belt drive, I would just try a seal kit.

Nothing special comes to mind, just Arizonans mostly, same as most Arizona residents. A man named Snow and another one named Flake founded it so Snowflake came about. Not many Snow's around now but still a lot of Flake's.

If it ain't broke don't fix it. I am totally fine with DAP 50hp injectors in my '91, it don't get many miles and choice is limited. The RV275 hp/660 tq Cummins engine in the RV industry has been a solid performer. New Bosch oem RV275 injectors are Cummins approved and have served me well. In general you can't go wrong with oem. I will wait for them. Yesterday, I hauled 5 heavy loads, 10 hours, never shut the truck off, it is like the Energizer Bunny, just keeps on a tickin!!

You moved to custom because oem doesn't offer 150hp. I would also suspect that higher pop pressure than oem "might" be hard on VP's. If oem is so bad, how is it that they go thousands of hours in ag/industrial equipment all over the world? In general, they can go until engine overhaul. How many millions of trucks are/were on the road since diesel was invented. Those guys are not changing out injectors every 150k miles. If you want to stay on top of your injectors because you like to have 100% as much as possible, that's totally fine, but to suggest it is required....

Yes, they asked me about them but with new Bosch bodies they were more money. If custom injectors are only good for 100k miles I don't think I want them.

Welp, DAP just called, they are on national back order until about mid September, I said I would wait.

Thank you, that is what I wanted to hear I just hit the DAP order button.

I would change the oil. This is what I use, 85/140, it has the friction modifier mixed in.

A little history...('01 HO) I ran an Edge EZ and RV 275 injectors for 12 years, no issues. Then 5 years ago I installed the Edge Juice with the same original RV injectors, now I have EGT's and coolant temp issues. It dyno's 400/900, I don't want to loose that. Please don't recommend Quad, I can just barely use my cell phone. The RV injectors are 17 years old and have 315k miles on them. I am now getting a hard overnight start with 1/2 tank of fuel, no problem with above that. So I am due for new ones and connector tubes. Here is my question: If I go back to stock injectors and use the juice on a higher setting, will I keep my power and drop EGT/coolant temps? In the summer I run level 3 and winter level 5. I never use level 6, however with stock injectors it might be an option. Or, larger injectors, say 75-125 hp and a lower setting on the juice, say level 1 or 2. Will that keep power up and temps down? Or go with RV's again and just continue to drive by my right foot. My clutch and turbo will not support anymore power, nor am I looking for more, just want to keep it at 400/900.

You are running a stock truck. Twins are for serious hp, is that what you are looking for? That will require numerous and spendy supporting mods. An Edge EZ is a great bump in towing power, plug and play, adds about 60hp/180tq. You will need to add a full set of gauges, boost, pyro, fuel pressure and trans temp. An Edge monitor will do them all. You might want/need an upgraded lift pump but that is about all to run the EZ. If down the road that is not enough, then add RV injectors, another 30-40hp/90tq boost. Next upgrade is sell the EZ and go big.....but that is $$$.