NIsaacs

I can't stand the stock setting so I never use it, so yes, I can't remember either. So I did an unscientific test yesterday. With Edge Juice on stock/level 0, I checked the numbers on an empty trip with my dump. First hill in 6th, at 1800 rpm, I went wot for about 30 seconds. Max boost, 24 psi and EGT's 1070 at 1700 rpm. Second hill, I dropped to 5th, went wot for about 30 seconds. Max boost 30 psi and EGT's 1260 at 2500 rpm. So my boost fooler works on stock setting. This is with RV injectors and K27 turbo. So on stock setting it needs RPM to develop any power or boost but EGT's go up. After I loaded, I went to level 2/tow and on a small hill in 6th at 1800 rpm I went wot for about 20 seconds, 32 psi boost immediately and 1250 EGT's at 1900 rpm. I picked up 12 yards of mulch.

I don't think so, not without the tuner. I would guess with 50hp injectors he would be hard pressed to see over 26-28. I would plug the line and see what happens. I also have no problem running 1300 degrees. What does your coolant temps get to on a hard pull? That is my main issue on a hot day, uphill with a load.

What are your boost numbers? Do you have a boost elbow and does the tuner have a boost fooler included?

That looks like the supplied EZ boost elbow, it is not adjustable but is pre sized/restricted. The factory oem is more like a 60 degree angle and wide open. It looks like you have your turbo on the bench, it would be easy to remove and look. Then just install a pipe plug like I did

Dang! You can hide a semi truck in that blind spot. The Dodge pillar is too wide/thick as it is. I am blind in my left eye so maybe it is just me. My gauges.

Lol, yes, vehicle poor and that don't count the recoil start 6 gassers, car, pickup, two quads, garden tractor and brush cutter. 7 diesels, 3 pickups, 3 tractors and a Bobcat. Then 2 dump trailers and 2 car trailers with winches. I think that is 17

I am a fan of East Penn/Deka (Napa) batteries. With 17 vehicles that use batteries I am always buying a battery For a small town we have a large choice in batteries here. Walmart, Ace Hardware, Napa, O'Reilly, AutoZone and Car Quest. I generally buy Napa.

Thanks Joe, the operator is backing it up as I took the picture, it was farther forward. But yes, I understand your thinking. The new road was soft powder and steep, no traction at all. Picture of the skidsteer fully loaded and my son's load, heavy load of rebar. It was longer than the trailer so he didn't have much pin weight either.

Yup, mine are all but done already, two years and 28k miles. They want $1050 for a new set just like them, or I can go to Discount tire and get a set of Cooper ATP's, same size same price. I do buy the no fault warranty, 4/32's tread left. Note the clean wear pattern on the front, oem ball joints & unit bearings, 352k miles.

Pretty sure I saw your truck today, Sunday, 10/18/20 about 12:30 PM in Holbrook, Arizona!! You were headed West bound, in town, towing a boat, I was pulling out of the 76 station.

How does your exhaust brake mount? I assume it is a direct turbo mount. If it is like this one, you will need the stock type turbo with the 5 bolt exhaust flange. This one should work in aftermarket. https://www.dieselautopower.com/s200gx-e-dodge-ram-upgrade-turbo-12769880001 Or a rebuild kit for your your stock turbo. https://www.dieselautopower.com/holset-genuine-hx35-rebuild-kit-3575169

Appears to be legal. https://edgeproducts.com/shop/2001-2002-dodge-24-v-ez-5-9l

More-fun-with-math, humm, Loren, gonna need some help here... But, I think the difference between 3.55 and 3.73 gears is about 5% or about 100 rpm or about 3.5 mph @70. $1500 for a 5% bump in performance? The oem power of the HO is 245/505...add 5%...that gives a new rating of 257/530. My guess is the butt dyno wont feel it. The Edge EZ adds 65/180...so now the oem power jumps up to 310/685, you will feel that The EZ also claims a mileage increase of 1-2 mpg. When your 245's wear out you can drop to 225's that is about 3.5% How many miles per year do you drive the truck? Unless you are running a huge tire, like 37's" a gear change is the last thing I would do, then 4.10's make sense. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Now, with that said....65/180 additional power increase will make a fun ride out of that 3500 truck!

Yes, don't even consider doing away with the 19.5 commercial tires with your overhead camper. To re-gear for $1500 from 3.55 to 3.73 will only give you a slight bump in performance. For $472 you could install an Edge EZ and walk all over a gear change as far as cost, simplicity and performance. Changing out your oem (low milage) set of gears, (they last forever) and taking a chance on a fubar gear changer is a big risk. Dana axles are the worst axle for re-gearing, unless you are an expert at the trade. They don't grow on trees. I have rebuilt a bunch of them (Dana's) never lost one but I still hate working on them

I get these at Napa, I use the 351002. What are you using for fluid? https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=power%2Bsteering%2Bfilter&q=N%3D2500007%2B2600705%2B2800778%2B10200100%2B5002000%2B5002200%2B200220100%2B108601800%26Nty%3D1%26Score%3D0.78&referer=PLP&leftNav=leftNav

Yes, and you can use it for flush if you don't like it. Mine takes one gallon @ $9.69 per gallon, so you aren't out much. I do have Valvoline 50w synthetic manual transmission fluid in my Ford w/Clark 5spd. I tried it in my NV5600 but I didn't like it. It seemed like it was too slippery and the synchro's were not liking it. I really wanted to switch over to it for everything but since the '01 didn't like it I quit using it. The '91 liked it too but my Dodge Neon did not. I used the whole 5 gallons switching everything over. Spicer even tells you to not use synthetic on some of their light duty 5-6spds. Yet most everything is going that direction so I tried it too, but no go.

I agree. I bought my truck ('01) in '03 with 34k on it and changed the oil with Penzoil Synchromesh, I didn't like it, so when I changed it again I used 15w/40 engine oil, the same thing I was/am running in my '91 w/Getrag. I now have 350k on the '01, 330k on the '91. I change all gear boxes every 36k miles except the front axle, it goes 100k per change. My thoughts on some builders that say overfill, is, they get a tranny that shows lack of oil, damage. What they don't know, is, how many owners has the tranny had that may have let it get low or poor maintenance. If you keep it clean and full at all times, it will be fine. This is especially important on 4x4 models. If the tranny develops an internal leak to the t-case and you don't check it very often it will be toast in short order. The dip stick or fill plug is where it is, for a reason. Don't overfill and for sure don't underfill or let them get low. Is it just the Dodge forums that recommend tranny overfill, (Getrag, NV4500, NV5600, G56) or do Ford and GM forums say it too? I really don't think Dodge tranny manufacturers goofed with their fill plugs. Now, with all that said, if you want to overfill, have at it, I don't mind

Eaton/Clark transmission service manual says this: "REFILL - First, removal all dirt around the filler plug, Then refill with new oil of a grade recommended for the existing season and prevailing service. Fill to the bottom of the level testing plug positioned on the side of the transmission. DO NOT OVERFILL, as the excess quantity will serve no useful purpose. If the oil level is too high, it will cause excessive oil churning and high oil temperature and possible leakage." I suspect your high transmission temps may have something to do with this. I would also suspect your temp gauge. Get a I/R temp gun and check it. I do not overfill any gearbox in my fleet, ever.

Okay, the disconnect is cool, I wish I had one at times. Yes, I use 15w/40 in my NV5600, I change it and all gear boxes every 36k miles.

I say use it up and flush that sucker. You will need to drive in 4x4 or jack up all 4 and let it run in 4x4 for a few minutes. If you don't the chain wont turn and slosh the fluid around. Just driving around in 4x2 won't stir it up. I used ATF+4 for years but now use Motorcraft 5w/30 synthetic blend, same as my Ford Escape engine oil.

I got it from Rock Auto for $15.57 (CH1288112) but I see they have raised the price, maybe a different vendor. http://www.rockauto.com/?carcode=1366602&parttype=10585 Here is one from Parts Geek: https://www.partsgeek.com/p551t66-dodge-ram-2500-washer-reservoir.html

It might be the bottle itself, it can be hard to tell. I messed with mine (grommet) but didn't fix it. Changed out the bottle and fixed it. It came with both grommets.

Dang, that rust looks brutal. Is that the 5 bolt elbow? What do the bolts look like? Is it possible to remove them instead?

It is a gooseneck

Here is a picture of my '01 empty and loaded. It weighs 7800 lbs with all my junk. I haul commercial, sometimes heavy, so rather than airbags I spaced up my overloads to make contact sooner. The factory rake is important if you haul/tow.