NIsaacs

You have owned the truck for 9 years with the temps fine until now. If your Napa t-stat looks like the one on the right in Bobs picture, I would get rid of it and find one like the t-stat on the left. Note the different type bypass sealing surface on the bottom of the t-stat. My '01 will not work right with a Napa stat.

Cool, thanks for the update. I really like your logo!

Nice! How is the Eaton tranny working out? I think you installed a rebuilt engine awhile back too? I don't remember seeing an update on them. Are you still hauling commercial?

I have stock exhaust on my '91 less the muffler, it sounds okay, kinda like a tractor. No muffler on the Cummins powered Ford with twin stacks, it sounds awesome. I tried no muffler on my '01 with my new 4" exhaust, it was unacceptable. I passed a motor home on a hill pulling hard....scared us both On the open highway it was fine but in town and around heavy traffic it was gross....it has a muffler now. Here I am pulling hard, 26k GCW, uphill, crossing a bridge, with a muffler, still plenty loud. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iHRZMA3Gsfk My twin stacked Ford, first start of the day. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hy8NaAjxP34

I would drain the oil in the tranny, pull a pto cover and inspect. I would also pull the diff cover and inspect.

It's not a big deal for me, easy peasy. I have had this account for 43 years, credit and debit are attached. Small town USA has two banks here, Wells Fargo and Arizona Bank, once you leave the state, Arizona Bank is useless.

FYI, Wells Fargo requires me to advise them when I leave the state and dates/locations I will be in.... If I don't , bam, card gets locked down. At least the form is easy to fill out on line.

So far I am liking it. Doesn't seem to help much in the EGT's but spools really quick and seems to hold boost longer on an upshift. I haven't pulled it hard on a long hill with a heavy load yet. I am still running it set in the 33-34 psi range.

I did this on 1-22-20, with all my hauling junk and a loader bucket both ways, old one down and new one back. First time in ages I drove my truck empty, 389 miles round trip, 20.3 gallons for 19.16 mpg on winter fuel, nice! Lots of hills, including 10 miles of Salt River Canyon (twice) but because of that, the road is slow.

I set it for 33 psi, that way I can compare turbos. Hauled a small load just now, about 18k, and on some rolling hills I hit it hard and the egt's seem to be about the same. It hit 1350 pretty quick, so maybe not much help in that department. I was at about 5800' elevation and 85*.

Thanks John, I was hoping you would chime in. My turbo knowledge is very limited. I don't understand all the sizes, shapes and configurations of stock v/s others. Yes, stock head bolts and 33 psi stock. The egt's and coolant temps are/were bad. Full power/boost on a loaded grade will get me 1350 egt's in about a 1/4 of a mile. Then hold that, with the Juice defueling to my set 1350.

Initial observation of the new turbo is it spools even quicker than the oem. The intake is quiet exhaust note is about the same. I read that one revolution of the waste gate adjustment equals 1 psi boost. Two turns gave me 28 psi, so I turned it three more and now I am at 31 psi. Not sure how much I really need, I am guessing about 34-35. Haven't pulled any significant grades yet. I like it.

It was a direct bolt in like advertised for a stock truck with a direct mount exhaust brake. I did need to clock both housings and move the exhaust pipe back 3/4". I did a quick 1/2 mile shake down run to check for boost/exhaust leaks, all is well. The boost is preset at 26 psi, it was exact. What should I set it at, for 400hp? It dynos 400hp with RV injectors and the Edge Juice. They advertise 450 hp @ 40 psi. I will get a rebuild kit for the oem HX35W (340k miles) and save it for my '91. It has the stock HIC with a #16 turbine housing. It also has the direct mount exhaust brake.

Still trucking here too, keeping my dumps busy.

I think the center bolt is that way because most springs are underslung, but yes, if it fit, all is good, you just can't see the nut if it comes loose. After clamping the u-bolts I like to check/tighten them. I agree on quality build practices, way less to go wrong. I am used to working on all types of junky trailers, where alignment is key. I have found springs to be different in length by as much as 1/4 inch. Even 1/8 or 1/16th" will compound between 4 springs to cause issues. You bought quality parts so you are probably fine.

Combo looks great, good job! The center bolt appears to be up side down? Did the nut fit the perch okay without mods? Did you align/check the axles after? Enquiring minds want to know

Out local little country store yesterday, they are very competitive with town prices.

Sounds like your wheel bearing is loose, did you check it?

A little more info: All the Mopar #52122362AE, AF, AG, AH, AI, AJ, and AK have been superceded by "AL".

Hag's poster didn't use Mopar numbers but this info explains it in detail. Plainly says the HD 98-99 oem tie rod taper will not fit the 2000-2002 trucks. The taper is the same for 2000-2012. I think your kit fits the 2000-2012 trucks. Some forums use #52122362AF but might be the same as your "AH". "94 to 99 trucks have one size taper in the knuckles and pitman arm. 00 to 02 trucks have another size taper in the knuckles and pitman arm. 03 to 08 trucks have the same size taper in the knuckles and pitman arm as the 00-02 2nd gens. 08.5 to 12 trucks have the same size taper in the knuckles and pitman arm as the 00-02 2nd gens and 03-08 3rd gens" Some good info here and backs up Hag's post. https://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=AwrJ61Qi7GBeafYABQpXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTBzdWd2cWI5BGNvbG8DYmYxBHBvcwMxMAR2dGlkAwRzZWMDc3I-/RV=2/RE=1583439010/RO=10/RU=https%3a%2f%2fwww.rme4x4.com%2fthreads%2fbullet-proof-dodge-steering-upgrade.78067%2f/RK=2/RS=sVZ3YjC6FJCDTnneXRz4dkUlX.U-

Thanks, I will stand by and let you advise me, Lol All the parts are in stock here at my local Car Quest, I am going to reuse my adjuster sleeves, they are the same I understand, that will save me a few dollars.

Yes, I am aware of all this. My truck is stock other than one larger tire size, 340k miles on all original front end. However, I have seen many threads on this upgrade so I was thinking of doing it. If an upgrade is in fact an upgrade I am interested, if not then I will just replace with oem stock.

Just to be clear, does this include installing on the '01 2500 4x4? I have all the numbers for the switch but am holding back because of posts like this: ("Just get all of the parts for a '99 HD Steering except the inner drag link end that hooks to the pitman arm use off a 2002. With factory Alloy Rims the Tie Rod ends hit the inner rim at full lock left or right. After 3 years with this setup I have chewed off about a 1/16 off the inner lip of the rim. No longer hits.") This mod seems to be all over the place. Mostly the thread will say aftermarket wheels or 17" 3rd gens or works on '94-'97 models. I do have the factory alloy wheels like the above poster had.

How long have you owned the truck? Is this something new or always this way? If it is stock, that is about how they pull.

Yes, original, I change oil every 36k miles with 15/40 diesel engine oil. On a hot day, towing in 6th for hours it will not get over 195*. I never let it get low or dirty, I also never overfill. I don't use any coolers or filters. The truck has 335k miles on it. Note how clean the oil is. I have since changed out to a 180 t-stat and notice everything seems to run cooler from the 190*. Fuel , tranny and IAT temps. If I lost any fuel mileage it would be too small to measure.