NIsaacs

Are you using this type of filter? Note the micron rating, 141, it is just a screen some are actual filters that may be too fine. https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=3270&q=N%3D2500660%26Nty%3D1%26Ntk%3DKeyword%26Ntt%3D3270&isProduct=true&indices=PIA Such as this one, it is 3/8" but has a filter v/s just a screen, it is for gas only. They come in metal too, just like the top one so they can confuse you. https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=3003&q=N%3D1000016000%26Nty%3D1%26Ntk%3DKeyword%26Ntt%3D3003&isProduct=true&indices=PIA FYI, I did not have any luck with the DDRP, lasted less than a summer.

You might consider the direct mount Raptor pump, they claim no pre filter needed. Quick video of a cool start of the day, 36* overnight. This is with RV injectors with 290k miles, installed in '03, 326k miles on the original VP, Edge Juice set on level 2 (tow mode). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ioah3CXPVmI

Are you using something like this? https://www.genosgarage.com/product/na-33007-inlinefuelfilter/fuel-filters If you are I would guess that is your problem. As far as wind chill having an affect on fuel, I don't think so. Only warm blooded animals/people.

I would pull your fan belt off and try it. The belt tensioner can knock when they get bad.

Yup, he needs to go to church, lol

Is that for real, about $900 per hour?

I agree, I think Mike is confused with his RV. My 83"x24' 14k gvw gooseneck weighs 5k, with winch, battery and tool boxes full of cargo control items. My '91 Dodge has 326k miles on the oem VE pump, the '01 has 326k miles on the oem VP pump. Overall, the trucks don't owe me a dime, so when and if I do need a new pump, I am okay with that. Neither one has ever made me walk. Keep in mind, the injection pump is only one item that can fail, out of a 100, that can put you on the side of the road.

Yes, most of the hauls are generated by me, very little custom hauling except for my sons. I am in the fertilizer (manure) business. I haul it in, process it and haul it out. Also some logs/firewood, wood chips, cinders and commercial compost. I bought my last dump trailer in February last year and have never unhooked it except for greasing the ball. Summers are busy but winters are slow. I am retired so it helps my fixed income and keeps me active. Tub grinder and tractor to run it.

Thanks for your experience, I am not into smoke/fuel going out the tail pipe. The RV's have been great so I will go back to them. I am totally happy with 400 hp, so far.....when a new turbo comes, might get a small bug again Thanks for the lesson, I really don't want drive around the smoke either. When you are loaded all the time it is a pain and even with 6 gears it causes delayed acceleration and now you need even more gears.

Thanks again. I am not into beta testing/R&D experimenting, that's why I read all the time. I don't want to buy twice. I am a good mechanic but not a hot rod mechanic, there is a big difference so I rely on threads like this. Thanks for the feed back, that's why I am here. I only want to do something once and if it ain't broke I don't fix it. However, I don't even listen to my stereo, it is all about the engine/truck. If I hear a strange noise I am all over it. My truck is a work truck and needs to always be ready for a load. I stagger my maintenance so it is only down a few hours. I have 326k miles on both Dodge trucks, (each), never walked yet....now my Ford....yup, several times

I would say yes, it is probably marked with paint. Make sure where the slack is. Grab the steering wheel shaft at the box and turn it by hand, watching where the slack is. Do it with the engine off. Make sure there is no slack in the steering shaft couplers (u-joints)

Yes, I need to keep the Juice. I was afraid of the lower level doing that. It gets the best fuel mileage on 5 out of all levels and I really like the HP for passing on two lane roads. I have been really satisfied with the RV's....12 years with an EZ and now 4 years with the Juice...so even tho they seem fine I am sure they are due. Thanks for the help.

Thanks for the input. Are yours SAC or VCO? New bodies or rebuilt? I understand the SAC last longer? I wouldn't want to pull them from time to time and pop them. My RV's have about 290k and sound/seem fine. I am sure they are tired but run great still. Is the Comp the same as the Juice? Did you get new or rebuilt bodies. I noticed you got VCO style...I understand the SAC last longer? Maybe I better stay with the RV's. I run on level 5 most of the time but was wanting to get bigger injectors and run level 2 (same as EZ)

Can the Juice control the smoke if I turn it down? If it just during low boost I don't mind that, I can control that with my foot but I don't want smoke at high boost. I tow almost all the time so they will need to work with that.

When you get time, could you explain this a little more, please. Currently running an Edge Juice and RV's with about 290k miles on them, so I should buy something new. I do need to stay at my current power level (400hp) due to stock turbo, stage one clutch and wallet. Could I turn the Juice down to about level 2 with larger injectors and still get my 400hp? I am also really not interested in 100k mile injectors. The RV's last a long time for whatever reason. Did you custom order your injectors for more pressure over whatever stock is? New or rebuilt bodies? Also, VCO v/s SAC, it sounds like the SAC last longer? I need to buy something new since my RV's have so many miles on them but I really don't want a 100k injector. Thanks.

Dang, that is strange and interesting, thanks for sharing.

That's a bad sign, I would pull the cover and at least change the oil and take a good look. Drive train noise can be hard to pin point, the sound can telegraph itself almost anywhere.

That will put your truck within about 3.5 mph of what you had, at 2100 rpm in top gear....

Does it appear to be engine related or drive train? The video didn't help me.

That would be a fun trip. This customer bought 10 cord last year and wants 10 more this year but I will only have 8. I hauled this Cat 508 Skidder from Redding with my ol Ford in 1991, then spent 3 days in Kingman, AZ with a blown clutch hub. The shop stripped the threads in the flywheel for the pressure plate

Delivered another load of wood, he said keep it coming

Thank you for the pictures, I wasn't smart enough to take some Mine looks like this one in the link. I might be wrong on the outside line, it might go to the capped fitting you mentioned, my eyes don't see all that well, lol. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/mopar-fuel-tank-module-sending-unit-4897668/fuel-system-accessories-replacement-parts

I just did a fuel gauge sending unit in my '01. The return line is attached to the external side of the module, about 2-3" above the bottom of the tank. My opinion only: The screen is too fine for diesel in cold climates, it appears to be a gasser screen. I really think the module is a hybrid/modified gasser unit. It had a one way valve that hooks up to nothing. Like it is for an in-tank pump. The bottom half of the module holds fuel, again, like it is for an in-tank pump for cooling, when the tank is low. I removed the valve and top screen off the sump/basket and made two holes in the bottom screen. My tank was spotless and only a slight amount of dirt in the bottom of the module. The screens were covered in a varnish like coating that appeared to be a restriction. I am not a fan of the big aftermarket fuel pumps, too hard to get parts on the road. I also think they cause more problems than they fix. I have a Raptor direct mount now after several oems, an Aritex and DDRP direct mount pumps. I carry a good used Carter just in case. My float was totally worn out.

Sounds like batteries or cables need some attention.

I wasn't asking about this setup, I was asking about yours, you said this: "These pto covers and transmission oil coolers really DO work." Just wondering what prompted this report. Thanks