NIsaacs

The top half is bigger. Also, here is a picture of my worn out sender.

That's a big "if". Seals in general, only seal one way. Some may have a small dust lip but it wont keep out water. When you keep a vehicle a long time and drive it as many miles as Mike and I do, water contamination will rear it's ugly head. Maybe not today, tomorrow or next week, but trust me, it will show up. Ball joints, unit bearings and tie rods to name a few, not counting axles, u-joints and t-case. The water crossing in the picture looked deep enough to even submerge the starter/solenoid. A warm component seems to create a vacuum when they encounter an instant cold water bath.

Your air filter is probably fine but I would for sure, check your gear boxes for water.

$56.00 here: https://www.genosgarage.com/product/filter-3944961/engine-replacement-parts-2

Are you missing a soft plug on the front of the head, or does it just look that way?

Yup, nice trailer, my bad,

What are you going to use for a trailer? The one pictured appears to be a 7k GVW, too small for a 10k load.

The Pequea is a quality trailer, I went to their web site. Yes, you need power up and down. I had a Parker that was gravity down, it was nice in the fact that it came down quick with no battery use, however, if you had to lower a loaded bed for whatever reason, you couldn't, there was no control, it would fly down. Also, in the above comparison (economy) there are no front facing lights and the rears are bulb/cover style, old school. You can't see it but they also use inferior axles and all options are extra.

Since it is a lower grade lifting system, about $300, I think the overall trailer is more an economy unit. I really don't see an issue with the lift itself. With a uneven load it might want to twist the bed more, so heavier hinges might be needed. Paint is where the economy trailers fail. The bigger manufactures have a better paint process, with sand blasting, acid etching, primer and good paint/powder coat. Here are two pictures of economy v/s quality. Note the flimsy see through fenders and bed side wall above them, no supports.

Yes, there are pros and cons to all of them, look at all the little things when you research. I think PJ has a really good spec table to compare trailers. I prefer the scissors lift, at least 10 gauge floor and sides, 3 way gate, ramps and tarp kit. I also want the fenders to be attached to the bed. The gap between the frame mount fenders and the bed is a catch all. Pay attention to the side wall supports, some are light weight, also the top rail/stake pockets. Here is a picture of my Big Tex (sold), Lamar and Load Trail.

The flip flop person has to learn the hard way, Lol It is a good heavy duty trailer but I would not buy a low pro again. It is nice for loading equipment but the bed gets to close to the ground when you dump. It is a 7'x16'x3' Lamar with 7 gauge floor and 8k axles.

I agree on the turbo, seals are tired most likely.

It would probably work but it is somewhat light weight. Hydraulic oil #32 is about 10wt, 46 is 20wt and 68 is 30wt. I see it is rated between 46-68.

Upgraded the 'ol log splitter today (11/17) with one from Tractor Supply. The old one was a little light duty personal use machine, I borrowed from my son. I installed a new pump, control valve, filter kit and flushed/cleaned out the tank. Then ran it a few days and changed out the hydraulic oil/filter again, then took it back while it was all freshend up. Figured I should buy my own before I wore out his again, plus I was getting afraid of the Chinese motor, lol. Mine is a 25 ton with a 11 second cycle time. It will work me hard to keep up. I don't burn wood but I sell it. Lots of work but it keeps me healthy.

Napa Gold/Wix filters and whatever 15/40 is on sale. Currently using Travelers from Tractor Supply, $7.00 a gallon in 5 gallon buckets. I have 7 diesel powered vehicles, they all get the same stuff.

It looks like cost is not a real big issue due to low miles traveled (140k) For me it is, plus mostly they are towing miles. I use 15/40 diesel engine oil, 326k original tranny. I would not use any ATF. I also never overfill. I change every 36K miles. Keep it clean and full and these trannys go a long time. Any ATF+4 for the t-case is fine. Be sure and pull the fill plug first and make sure it is not overfull or discolored by tranny oil. The biggest down fall of any manual tranny with 4x4 is running them low, due to leakage into the t-case. On a 4x2 any leak from the tranny is obvious.

I agree. If the op can haul that flatbed truck with a gasser, he don't need any help with do's and don'ts, he has it handled. OP, I hauled this load out of Clay Center, Kansas, 2148 miles round trip. I got 14.6 mpg over with empty trailer and 10.6 on the return. These old Dodge trucks get'er done.

Some good info here on a 4x2 swap. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/mission-g56-pictures.221115/

A small SUV can tow that 2k trailer. Your truck won't even know it is there. Take your trip and relax, you will be fine.

I would check the condition of the tranny and t-case oil. Pull the drain plug and let a dab out. Normally, if a carrier bearing goes bad it will seize and spin in the rubber cushion.

I agree. My temps are over 500 at idle when I use it for warm up. On a 5 mile 6% down grade, heavy load and high RPM mine is more like 800.

Some good info here:

Thank you for the pictures and info. I have one that is 2 years old, so some day I will need this rebuild info. I think mine has a 4 year warranty. When it goes, I might need to up grade to the next size.

It might seem big but the overall size of the filter is small, so not much surface area. It is also on the suction side of the lift pump, not much vacuum produced v/s pressure.

I agree, I would go with the Napa 3270 and see if that helps.