NIsaacs

I agree. The engine appears to be stock so it should be good for another 350k. Jack Owen, what went south on the head gasket? Just an exterior coolant leak, like the right front corner? Mine had a leak there at 258k, I changed gasket, reused the head bolts, torqued them the old fashioned way, 120# and shut the hood. That was 70k ago.

Go back to page 15, lots posted.

Looking good! How is the big ole Fuller tranny doing?

I think it depends on how bad it is as far as rebuilding it or buying new. At the minimum you will need 2 u-joints and a ball socket, Spicer parts will run about $120. If you need the ball stud yoke, another $80, plus a drive line shop to R&R, you would be better off to buy new. Generally the ball stud is toast. I assume you have already changed fluid in the t-case and all appears okay there?

The reason I ask is because it is easy to misdiagnose drive trains. What were your symptoms before you pulled over? In general a t-case is very reliable if the oil is changed and not run low. As you know trannys can die anytime. Axles can be suspect too. I would pull the drain plug on both and let a small amount of oil out to see what is what.

I wouldn't mess with a 205 conversion. The DHD is a very good t-case, it has a wider chain than the DLD. The axles determine your gear ratio not the t-case. 2nd gens were 3.55 or 4.10. Are you sure it is the t-case and not the transmission? This outfit has a lot of parts and some good info on the DLD/DHD. https://torqueking.com/category/1994-2002-dodge-ram-2500-3500-transfer-case/

They are both clean. In the spring I am thinking about going to one of these, there are several 3 or 4 core aluminum radiators out there now for cheap...the cheap part kind of puts me off tho, but there are some guys running them and like them. https://www.ebay.com/itm/3Row-Aluminum-Radiator-For-94-02-Dodge-Ram-2500-3500-L6-5-9-Cummins-Turbo-Diesel/282687210889?fits=Year%3A2001|Make%3ADodge&hash=item41d1788589:g:hCQAAOSw7m9bHRrY:rk:2:pf:0 I am also looking at this plastic fan from Geno's, they claim 39% more flow but it is pricey. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/dodge-ram-cummins-replacement-cooling-fan-fan9402/fan-clutch

Yes, I have heard that about the pumps, and since the 2nd gen radiator is so much smaller it would stand to reason. One of my complaints on the radiator is the raised outlet. In my mind that seems wrong but maybe it is not an issue. In theory, it would loose some performance I would think. I have used Napa for 40 years and like you, have had some bad experiences, but overall I would say they are fine. The warranty is good and the manager of the local store I have known since he was a kid selling parts in his dads store. And on the road they are everywhere.

This may or may not be exactly correct because I am using Napa, but... 1st gen. 523 sq in core 2nd gen. 720 3rd gen. 796 early 4th gen. 861 I have a Napa pump. Are there flow differences in the brands? I know some have a ring around the impellors and some don't. I am sure the gauges are accurate. The oem is real close to the CTS and the CTS ECT is within a hair of the IAT and fuel temp on cold start.

I would guess it was originally attached to the cat. No clue where it goes on the engine side.

One of the best things you can do for your VP44 is run on the top half of your fuel tank. Low fuel = hot fuel= hot VP.

Is your fan clutch working?

Here is a source: https://torqueking.com/product/4604/qk4604-dana-70-powr-lok-limited-slip-differential-clutch-kit/

I understand Idaho has extremes, I have hauled there. But how often do you haul in those extremes? I also understand that if you can accelerate, you are not using all your wot power. I am talking about when you cant accelerate or when you loose speed, that's full power. What happens on 7% or 8%, that's what I am talking about. On level 2 with RV275's I am only at about 335hp/800tq, my cooling system should handle that.

Yes, I understand that. Smaller tires will help my 1st gear launch under load, acceleration and part throttle towing. I don't have heat problems here. I need the help at WOT, when the grade/load won't allow acceleration and or causes a drop in speed. This is where my truck gets hot. With smaller tires and the same WOT, my temps will be the same. I seem to have lost some cooling performance with my new radiator. I can't figure out why, it looks identical inside and out. I understand the 2nd gen 12 valves had three cores but the oem Mopar replacement, is two. My oem is two, the new one (Spectra), is two. Some guys are using the 3 core aluminum radiators off E-bay, they look pretty good and the ones using them are happy. Keep in mind I live at 5800' elevation, the Mogollon Rim is 7800' elevation (route to Phoenix), Phoenix is 1300'. Between there, are several mountain ranges and canyons to cross. Miles and miles of 5-7% grades that seem to go forever. I am pretty sure your truck will get hot on a 105* day here. I bought my last heavy duty dump trailer in February, I have not unhooked it yet. Everywhere I go I am loaded. My tare weight with this trailer is 14,500lbs, so I am loaded empty.

Yes, lol I had the chains and weight bar for pulling my 52" Swisher brush cutter, but even so, it was just too small. So I tried my quad, it was too small too, so then I upgraded to a John Deere tractor

Yes, the first leg was a test so I pushed it as hard as it would pull. I have improved the system a lot, but not enough. If I only pulled 1100* I couldn't pull the hat off your head. I ran an EZ for 12 years at 1300*, but at that time I was uninformed and happy using the oem temp gauge. After I got my CTS I found out what the temps really are. A gauge that goes from a reading of 190 then the next number is 240, how can you guestimate what the temps really are? The second half of my test is the part that bothers me, light load, 65 mph, AC on, 103* outside temps and 210 ECT is not what I call acceptable. This test was performed on level 2 about like an EZ. My gears are 3.55's tires 285's. That's not the issue at all. I can down shift, but if the hill is steep enough and the load big enough, 5th will still require wot. I don't want to have to lift, so the search is still on. A bigger fan or bigger radiator or both is next.

We have Craftsman with the 23hp Kohler, 6spd manual and 48" deck. It is 20 years old and like new, we don't use it much tho. And yes, they can hurt you. I was lucky here, my counter weight bar stopped it from going clear over and landing on top of me.

Posted this in September on another forum after installing all the new parts that could be changed, related to the cooling system. This is pretty typical of my truck. Got a good hot test yesterday. South of Payson has a 5 mile 6-7% grade, I think it's called the Rye Creek Hill. Empty truck and trailer, 80* out, I set the cruise at 67 mph, no AC and let it pull. At the very top it reached 226*, 30psi boost and 13-1350 EGT's. Then leaving Phoenix with a small load, on the 60 freeway, I was set at 65 mph, 103* out, AC on, it snuck up to 210*. After I left the freeway, I dropped to 5th and 58 mph all the way to Globe, stayed around 200. On the grade out of Superior up through the tunnel 6-7% grade, speed set at 50 mph, it reached 213* I think I have the system at about as good as I can get, without spending more money. The ps cooler I added, might be adding a little heat now too. I am seriously considering this fan from Geno's next spring. The truck is fine this time of year. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/dodge-ram-cummins-replacement-cooling-fan-fan9402/fan-clutch

Yours is set up better than mine then. My complete system is new, I even went to a 180 stat and a Hayden Medium Duty truck fan clutch, it mostly stays locked in. I think for it to cycle right, it needs a larger fan. That is ok, I like it locked. However, even so, there are times I still have to take it easy, which I don't like to do. I don't treat it rough but I sure make it work

The haul is, the rest is too much work for an old guy. This is one side of Salt River Canyon, so you can see the country we were in. The concrete trucks had to run with reduced loads to keep from spilling out on the steep pitches. All that rebar is placed and tie wired by hand.

Yes and no, with modified power the system is not up to the task, brand new. On hot days, long grades mine don't have a chance. Your system is way better than mine. Part of the problem is the rectangular radiator, not good. Cummins says it needs to be as square as possible to keep the un-swept area at a minimum. Our radiators suck. Your fan is a 26" 9 blade unit, ours is a 7 blade 22". We have a viscous fan clutch that may or may not kick on before the ECT is off the chart. You have a more positive clutch, a square radiator and a little bigger overall.

Thanks for asking, I enjoy this kind of hauling. I don't do any of the concrete work, it is too hard and always heavy, lol My son is a concrete contractor and does anything with concrete. This job was a cell tower base, 190' tall so it required a huge base. He does a lot of them and they are always in the worst places, so they can get elevation. Here are some pictures. the location was Salt River Canyon area. The rebar for this application is #11 or 1-3/8" x 32" long and weighs 170# per stick. The load is 8 ton and is only 1/4th of the total.

Off highway here, 4x4 low range, hauling 3 pallets of cinder block, 4.5 ton or about 23k GCW. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tG-eaDXhXvk

Turbo mount BD brake on my '01, early turbo mount Pac brake on the '91 and 5" industrial Pac brake on the Ford conversion. Pickup sized brakes were not available at that time. Still running stock valve springs on the Ford and the '91 so I limit my back pressure to 40 psi. 50-60 psi on the '01. Air cylinder on the Ford and vacuum on the '91 & '01. Cruising off a 7% grade with the '01, 4th gear and about 23k GCW. It holds back really well. You can hear the sound change and watch the mph slow on the video when I get on the foot brake. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xd_8MSUtOq4