NIsaacs

Are you sure that is not the weight of your 4x2? I weighed my '01 4x4 QCSB 6spd when I bought it, with spare and me in it, it was 7k. Almost 8k now with all my towing junk in it. I would not use a tow bar, they suck when the towed vehicle is heavier than the tow vehicle. They are hard to stop, too. Do you have a gooseneck hitch in the 4x2? Or just receiver hitch?

The 20* elbow is the factory one. Some aftermarket ones are adjustable and some are preset. The one that come with my EZ is a preset one. Max boost with it is 32 psi. I plugged mine and it still has 32 psi. So apparently the spring in the waste gate actuator will let the waste gate open at that psi. To check it, I added an extra spring to help hold the waste gate closed, this allowed 34 psi but also added EGT's, so I removed it and run the 32 psi. That appears to be the maximum the oem HX35 is good for. Anymore, just adds drive pressure and higher EGT's. I do think a larger turbine housing would help on the top end but sacrifice the low end, so....what do you want the most? I would like to try a 14 or 16, but that is a lot of work and expense if it don't help. Maybe some of you turbo gurus know?

Since your pickup will weigh 7k bare bones, you will need at least a 10k gvw trailer. If you fill the bed and or cab with extra stuff to move, you will need to up the trailer gvw to 12-14k.

What a nice clean job, I like it. And the shop is clean too!

45 hours sounds like a good turnaround time, good for you! I haven't built a 855 in 30 years, all my time on them was in the 70's and 80's. Since you have done everything, the only thing that comes to mind is a flat cam. I can't remember if you can get the timing right with one flat or not.

Dang! That is one monster of a complicated engine. I could do an inframe on a small cam/big cam 400 (855) in 20 hours. Plus I could lift the heads off by hand. Three recon heads were about $600, I bet a recon head for that is $3k. I bet that thing will take 40-60 hours.

I think that system requires this:https://www.genosgarage.com/product/fast-cooler-fc-1fc300/transmission-coolers Some better pictures of how it "might" work:https://www.genosgarage.com/product/fast-cooler-manual-transmission-filter-kit-fc-filterkit/manual-transmission-filters-gaskets-drain-plugs

The blind spot is huge, I am blind in my left eye, but....

I just did mine last month, here are a few pictures and a little info that might help. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/weekend-maintenance-on-the-01.259915/#post-2558205

These should work: https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=battery&q=N%3D5002000%2B5002200%2B200220100%2B10200100%2B402203300%2B599999900%2B1000021900%26Nty%3D1%26Ntt%3Dbattery%26Ntk%3DKeyword&isApplication=true&indices=API

I am sure that is a true statement, however, I can barely operate my smart phone. The Edge products have served me well for the last 15 years, they are user friendly and work as advertised. For three years ('14-'16) I sled pulled all over the Rocky Mountain States, not once did I see Quadzila plastered all over the big boys. Maybe because sled pullers are red necks and not computer experts. It's about choices, if all our trucks were the same, there probably wouldn't be forums to share differences.

That's a good buy and should be some good oil. I just recently switched to Red Line synthetic power steering fluid, I really like it. I bought a case from Summit. Like the NV5600, Dodge says "only use regular power steering fluid".....Off topic a little but what do you use in your t-case? I still use the recommended ATF+4 but I am thinking, lol

That's what I am talking about, disable wire tap is "setting limits"....

Isn't that why we have tuners? Are you saying you can tow heavy up White Bird with your tuner maxed out on a 100* day? Or do you "set limits" and turn it down? As far as Dodge's GAW, GVW and GCW goes, I don't use them. If Dana says my rear axle is rated for 8k why should I use Dodges 6k? As far as just weight carrying goes I don't need 3750 lb rating, but on the Malapai rock and washboard roads I haul on, extra capacity is good for all the impacts I encounter. Then I get in blow sand...then I need the flotation of the 285's. Gear ratio and tire size, what does that matter when you have a 6spd? I can pick any final drive I need. I do need a bigger turbo, but since money don't grow on trees, I have to use mine until it dies. My truck tows and tows well. I bought my last gooseneck dump trailer in February, it has never been unhooked. My truck and trailer has a tare weight of 14.5k....so based on the OP towing 17k GCW, I am almost loaded empty. Then the loader comes along and dumps in 6 ton......

I noticed in another forum, your total GCW is only 17k. Just watch your gauges and downshift when necessary. Use your tuner wisely when towing, you will be fine. My '01 (6spd) tows just fine with 3.55's and 285's. I let my CTS control my EGT's and I control my ECT. When needed I down shift or drive slower. Gear ratio and tires size only matter if you want to accelerate fast or tow in top gear. I got no problem using 5th or even 4th. Is it the perfect towing set up, probably not, but who's is? Every rig, pretty much has a compromise somewhere. I don't tow as heavy as I used to so I might go back to 265's, I liked the extra capacity of the 285's (3750 lbs each). The 265's have way more choices, are cheaper and my tire chains will fit again.

I agree, I don't even know if my stereo works, I listen to my engine, if it burps I know it. I would not silence my intake, I want to hear that turbo spool. I think you guys just have too many valveshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hy8NaAjxP34

I agree. I will also add, I don't overfill any of my manual transmissions, they all have a fill plug, I use it. The Dodge boys on TDR and other forums say you have to overfill the Getrag, NV4500, NV5600 and the G-56....so did all these manufactures install the plug in the wrong place? This is what Dana/Spicer says: Overfilling Do not overfill the transmission. This usually results in oil breakdown due to excessive heat and aeration form the churning action of the gears. Early breakdown of the oil will result in heavy varnish and sludge deposits that plug up oil ports and build up on splines and bearings. http://www.ttcautomotive.com/anexos/2309-4_134.pdf This is what Eaton/Fuller/Clark says about overfilling: "REFILL- First, remove all dirt around the filler plug. Then refill with new oil of a grade recommended for the existing season and prevailing service. Fill to the bottom of the level testing plug positioned on the side of the transmission. DO NOT OVERFILL, as the excess will serve no useful purpose. If the oil level is too high, it will cause excessive oil churning and high oil temperatures and possible leakage." https://www.eprogear.com/eaton-transmission-service-manuals.html

Yes, I think so. Here is something that I posted on another forum that I think has some merit. ATF has an additive in it to make it less slippery, to grab and hold automatic clutches. Same thing for motorcycles/ATV clutches, they spec the engine oil accordingly. No oil with the "fuel savings" logo, too slippery. With this in mind, "maybe" manual transmissions and t-cases spec ATF for the syncros. Same with Syncromesh type oils, it helps the inexperience drivers shift a manual transmission. I noticed this when I went from my factory fill on my NV5600 to 15/40 engine oil. The shifts are slower which is the way I shift anyway, so I don't need or want the syncromesh. Mine will do the same thing sometimes. It seems to only happen when I am in a real tight dump location and I have to go forward and back multiple times. Like you, I don't think it is my oil but the clutch. I think sometimes it gets mad at me

Yes, the '01.

Since my first oil change at 34k, that's what the miles were when I bought it used in '03. I use it in my '91 Dodge D-250 and my Ford F-350, from the first oil changes. The '91 has 326K now, the Ford about 150K. I did try Valvoline 50W synthetic manual transmission fluid once, but didn't like it in the '01, so on the next change I went back to 15/40. The '91 and the Ford still have it in them but they don't get many miles. They both like it, but when the time comes they will go back to 15/40 also, I really like it. Here is a picture with 36K on the 15/40, about 3 weeks ago.

I don't recommend mixing oil, you don't know what you are making, they may not be compatible. The link you posted sounds like good oil, I wouldn't be afraid to use it. I use 15/40 Diesel Engine Oil in mine, 323k towing heavy, standard fill plug level.

I noticed that before my last set of batteries died that when I plug my dump trailer in to top off the battery, the charger was not shutting off like it should. It was back charging my truck batteries that were bad but still starting the truck fine. These trucks start so quick I think the batteries can be bad but still start. With the new batteries, the dump charger shuts off again like it should. Sometimes we can't see the forest for the trees and a random comment can get us refocused. Just a thought, but maybe your grid heaters are just fine.

I noticed in the battery thread you might have weak batteries. Maybe the alternator is doing all the work? I also noticed that your engine is spotless. Do you cover your alternator when you power wash it? My engine is dirty but it is happy

There is way more to an alternator than a diode. How much does it cost to keep rebuilding yours? Napa has a lifetime warrantee on theirs for $102. With that said, I keep my receipt close at hand. My oem died 1.5 years ago. It looked really nasty so I just got a rebuilt. I like the fact that no mater where you travel, there is a Napa close by.

Are you rebuilding your alternator or buying a rebuilt?