NIsaacs

1st gen only has the one group 31.

Flat head Ford, 239 maybe.

I think the Hankook's are made in Korea if that matters. $950 seems high, but it depends on how much competition the area has. I just bought a set of Hercules for the '91, 235/85x16 Terra Trac ATII for $788.82 out the door, on the truck, made in USA.

Drive shaft at the rear diff.

$500 for a set of 4 tires, where you been, Lol Unless I feel like mounting them myself (trailer only) I always buy local. Warrantee is way easier and I don't feel right about asking a local to mount an internet tire.

Update: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/weekend-maintenance-on-the-01.259915/page-4#post-2562932

Sounds like a u-joint, usually the rear one. It gets the most action and is more open to weather contamination. After a few miles of driving check them all for heat like you did the carrier bearing.

He said 285's and 3.54's. https://mopar1973man.com/topic/15013-nv4500-countershaft-question/?_fromLogin=1#

Napa is East Penn (Deka) now. I just replaced my 8 year old Car Quest batteries with Napa. When I bought the Car Quest they were having a big sale on the Group 34 (slightly smaller than oem) so that is what I went with. Napa was wanting like for like cores so that is what I went with again. I think my '01 had Group 65 as oem.

It don't sound like the OP is having current issues with the 5th gear nut, just the snap ring on the counter shaft 5th gear. Is the needle bearing in good shape, the 5th gear bearing surface and shaft bearing surface? Good snap ring groove? I have not run into this problem before. The FSM says 270-280 for the nut. I recommend 400.

You might find a good used one, shaft and all. They appear to fit from 94-02. The 4x2 should fit but it is the quick ratio, might get you by for a while tho, if you can't find 4x4. If you need your truck like yesterday, Napa or O'Reilly have reasonable prices on rebuilt with lifetime warranty. I also recommend you fix the hydroboost leak. If it is not leaking into the cab, a seal kit is only $20. They might sound hard to fix, but they are not. If it is leaking into the cab, then it is more difficult to work on, but a rebuilt is $200. Keep us posted.

Good find, before total loss of control. The input shaft is just a short stub shaft that passes threw the control valve and attaches to the worm shaft. I can't exactly remember how, maybe a pin? Maybe when you heard the loud pop the retainer broke? Anyhow, yes you need some serious repair.

It must be right at the spines then. Is the clamp bolt tight?

Just to confirm...when you turn the steering shaft and the splined shaft does not turn are talking about the input shaft splines or the out put shaft splines?

Are you talking about the input shaft or output shaft slop? Have someone turn the slack in the steering wheel while you watch all the possible places there can be slack. Try to pin point where it is, inside the box or outside. Did you check the intermediate steering shaft for issues? Coupling or u-joints? https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=steering%2Bshaft&q=N%3D0%2B5002000%2B5002200%2B200220100%2B10200100%2B2804754&isApplication=true&indices=API

I use 15/40 diesel engine oil in all the trucks in my sig. I did buy a 5 gal bucket of Valvoline 50W synthetic manual transmission fluid a few years ago and tried it. The '91 and the Ford still has it and they both like it. The NV5600 in the '01 did not, so it has 15/40 again.

The 3rd gen has an idler pully in addition to the belt tensioner. 1st and 2nd gen don't have it. My local store has them in stock. I would think your store could have them overnight. Napa seal:https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=front%2Bseal&q=N%3D5002000%2B5002200%2B200220780%2B10200500%2B599999900%2B402203200%2B2500010%26Nty%3D1%26Ntk%3DKeyword%26Ntt%3Dfront%2Bseal&isApplication=true&indices=API Napa idler pully:https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=idler pulley&q=N%3D5002000%2B5002200%2B200220780%2B10200500%2B599999900%2B402203200%2B1000013200%26Nty%3D1%26Ntk%3DKeyword%26Ntt%3Didler%2Bpully&isApplication=true&indices=API

Here is a link: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/toyo-tire-failure-bad.252001/

Thanks, I posted the good side A few years ago I had a Toyo loose the tread on the right side and it damaged the door jam area. I think the dry climate I live in is easy on equipment.

I think he is referring to the cobwebs, you haven't been blowing the cobs out lately Picture of my '01.

You need to find the source of the leak. Take some brake clean and spray the front clean and blow dry. Then pull the belt and run it, use a flash light.

The engine must be out of a '96 F-650, Ford didn't build a F-550 back then. Does it have an air compressor? If it does and you keep it, it and the power steering pump bolted to the back of it will cover your side motor mount bolt holes. Mine has it so I had to use front and rear mounts.

It wasn't that bad to install, however it is a 4x2, 4x4 has a lot more challenges. When looking for a donor I would go F350, D60/D70 axles v/s the D44/D60 F250. Since you have a '78, you will need to look for a '77.5 - '79 with the wide frame so your body will fit. My engine has the aftercooler so I didn't need the room for an intercooler. My radiator and firewall are original, there is room with the right fan hub. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/74-ford-f-350-cummins-6bta.260213/

No problem, I don't ever argue, not my style. However, I will discuss certain points from time to time. As a 50 year veteran of Fords, I will speak up some, even on a Cummins site Enjoy your day.

Yes, I have run most of the Ford engines in my time. Put a lot of miles on a Ford 900 w/534 and IHC's with the 549, good engines. However, with that said, the 351M is no match for even a stock 1st gen. 1st dyno sheet is my 428 CJ in my '75 F-250 sled pull truck 2nd one is my Cummins Ford