NIsaacs

Did you remove and inspect the clutch and pilot bearing while the tranny was out or just R&R the tranny? How far from the floor with the clutch peddle do you feel engagement/truck starting to move? One little air bubble in the hydraulics can cause release issues.

If you already have the oem limited slip I would just change to 4.10's and leave the carrier alone. It may need a rebuild first.

That's plumb fine when you have that choice, with the one piece NV5600 you don't. As far as how long it will last, that depends on what is wrong. You don't want to damage the input shaft. Again, how are your dowel pins? Make sure that one or both are not pushed back threw the clutch housing. Since the housing was installed without the tranny, you are probably okay, but be sure. I have even found them missing.

I agree. However with a twin disk you do need the tool to align the splines. Don't ever force a transmission install. Are your dowels good? Is the pilot bearing a stock one with the exposed needles or a sealed aftermarket ball bearing? If it is stock I would suspect damage, maybe even partially collapsed or pushed out of the flywheel. Are your hydraulics good? Is this a new clutch or existing one? Just curious but why twin disk?

Yes, ours are. I meant the '03 and up. I am assuming ours are Saginaw same as the box?

I think some of the power steering pumps were/are aluminum and they are made by ZF? I think the Ford is cast iron?

I would use this outfit, they will be right. You don't want the wrong stuff as far as you are. https://torqueking.com/category/axle-shafts-u-joints-1994-1999-ram-dana-60/

I agree, fluid leaks can be hard to pin point. Don't guess or assume....you want to "know" before you start throwing parts at a repair.

I agree, the truck even drives better with it. I do jack mine up and turn the wheel lock to lock several times to get the old fluid out of the gear box and again to refill it.

This is what happens when you run over a mattress….https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDfA8idkUlA

I just changed out my air filter and batteries also. Stock air filter and Napa Group 8434/78. I didn't want/need the side post 78's but they only had one 8434. I don't like batteries with the standard caps, they are high maintenance in a closed environment. Also changed engine and rear axle oil.

Do you have any type of programmer?

That sucks, I just checked my stock and out of three brands none are CES 14603. This is good to know, I have never heard of it, and this is from a 20 year log truck owner. Was this around in the 70's and 80's? As far as pits in the cylinders/blocks, isn't that more electrolysis than anything?

How do you not split the small 12 point socket? I really dislike big bolts with small heads.

I figured you were clear about the leak but thought I would ask for a double check, lol That hole is not a head bolt hole, it is the bypass port. So a lot of coolant pressure there with a very thin line, (about 1/16") of material to seal. When I do a head gasket, I don't sleep well for a while

Make really sure where the leak is coming from, oil cooler gasket is rare. Use a flashlight. Head gasket leaks right above the cooler are common. The narrow band print-o-seal gasket next to the coolant bypass port is suspect. I know you are an excellent mechanic with excellent trouble shooting skills....this is just a heads up from another good mechanic...leaks are hard to pin point sometimes. Note how fragile the gasket is at the blue dots and the coolant bypass port. I blame Cummins for this, Lol

What temp are you using now? Can you put a shut off valve in the bypass for the winter? You can add a winter front or a piece of cardboard. I think the t-stats to fit your truck are 180, 190 or 200.

Some good info here on turbo's: https://mopar1973man.com/topic/14638-performance-upgrades/ For my application I like the looks of this one from DAP. https://www.dieselautopower.com/s200gx-e-dodge-ram-upgrade-turbo-12769880001

No mesh, at least on the inside of the outside. I did not pull the intake off to look at that part, but I will if you want me to.

When it gets light I will look at my Ford, it has the 6469.

The picture don't show the mesh.

I think the seal style is more important than the ball joint, especially for the bottom. Note the difference in the seal, the cheap joint (same as oem) actually has the better seal. How can the (expensive one) seal out water/contamination with a slip on seal?

I use FleetFilter and always order $200+, that gives me another 20% off. I do have to pay shipping but no tax, so it is a wash. 2790/$40....6469/$44

The thread is about the BHAF 2790, not exactly cheap either. I figure anyone wanting the 2790 might consider the 6469, if noise was an issue....

Have you tried this one at all (6469)? It is what I use on my Ford conversion. It might be quieter than the 2790. https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=6469&q=N%3D1000015700%26Nty%3D1%26Ntk%3DKeyword%26Ntt%3D6469&isProduct=true&indices=PIA