NIsaacs

That route also bypasses the Arizona port, Lol I use it quite often. Also due East of Quemado to Socorro to Roswell into Texas. No New Mexico scales at all that way. Some of the roads are on the slow side but that gets good fuel mileage How did you like the Salt River Canyon? Lots of tough pulls from the Phoenix area, no matter what route you take, the 60, 260 or I-17.

Dang, you been busy, that's a lot of miles in 1.5 years. I saw you in Holbrook, AZ about a year ago towing a boat. Where is your head gasket leaking? I did mine at 258k, 6 years ago, 364k miles now. I used Fel-Pro and reused the oem bolts. This quote from another thread,, may or may not apply. http:// Posted April 17 On 4/16/2021 at 7:18 AM, Mopar1973Man said: Ok... Finally blown the head gasket. NIsaacs said: I call that a leaking head gasket, not blown. Blown is a fire ring gone. I doubt your turbo had anything to do with the leak. High rpm/coolant pressure is more likely. Cummins designs the water pump for a 2500 rpm engine. Then Dodge pumps that up to 3100+, the head gasket fails on the right front corner. Note the area in pink on the picture, 4 cyl. but 6 is the same. That hole is the thermostat bypass port. That little narrow section of silicone bead fails. If the heater core is partially plugged and or the thermostat is closed, this location can get a lot of coolant pressure at high rpm. I lost mine racing a Ford gasser, he was empty, I was towing my empty flatbed gooseneck trailer up a long grade in 5th (6spd truck), wot for several miles. When I got to the top I could smell coolant. I don't do that anymore, Lol.

I think this guy has quality seals. https://piratejack.net/hydro-boost-rebuild-kits/

Yes, I saw the mess and re-did it

Here is a link to Fleetguard, spendy and 2-3 week order times. Napa is about $65 my cost. PS: it is 11.88"x10.5" w/4" id. https://www.simplyfilter.com/AIRHOUSING-p/ah1139.htm

I went ahead and placed an order for the Napa #6469 w/air housing, flows 470 cfm. They are somewhat hard to come by, closest one was Texas. It is the one I use on my Ford conversion. Napa had the open style in stock but was hesitant about heat and debris exposure. AH64ID, (he knows filters) thought it was a good choice.

I have often wondered about this. On level 3 my filter minder pulls down some. I did some research before, to try and use the 4" (3rd gen/4th gen) but it wont fit my box. This thread got me looking again. Per Wix, the only company I could find CFM specs for, says the 2" filter for my truck is only 140 cfm. It don't give a CFM for the 4". Yet, the '91 factory filter, similar to a BHAF is 450 cfm. For a '93 (they changed it some) 290 The small BHAF is 425 and the large one is 680. I never really wanted a BHAF but...... What say the experts

Any idea why the engine quit? Maybe more going on than just the head gasket?

I call that a leaking head gasket, not blown. Blown is a fire ring gone. I doubt your turbo had anything to do with the leak. High rpm/coolant pressure is more likely. Cummins designs the water pump for a 2500 rpm engine. Then Dodge pumps that up to 3100+, the head gasket fails on the right front corner. Note the area in pink on the picture, 4 cyl. but 6 is the same. That hole is the thermostat bypass port. That little narrow section of silicone bead fails. If the heater core is partially plugged and or the thermostat is closed, this location can get a lot of coolant pressure at high rpm. I lost mine racing a Ford gasser, he was empty, I was towing my empty flatbed gooseneck trailer up a long grade in 5th (6spd truck), wot for several miles. When I got to the top I could smell coolant. I don't do that anymore, Lol.

For daily carry, I prefer a (.38) J frame/hammerless Smith. For home protection, several hand guns and Hi-Point 995TS Carbine in 9mm.

Thanks for sharing, nutin gets the blood pumping like the starting line of a sled pull! My 1975 F-250 gasser, 6500# stock class. Missing my old sled puller and smelling the 110 burning about a 1/2 gallon in 300' Re-posting Marana, AZ 2015, the old 440 FE gets it done! I think they call that, "takin it out the gate"

I agree, a good muffler is good. I started with a 4" MBRP w/muffler delete. That lasted about a month, then installed a small Dynomax muffler. Still too loud, so I installed a muffler off a Peterbilt It is a Walker/Napa EXH22936, an economy Donaldson M090544, standard 51"x9", it is huge but fit no problem. I really like it.

This is an indicator of slow VP timing, like really slow. Are you sure the pump key is in place, correctly, and or the right one?

Don't forget to clock the oil drain flange, it has to be almost perfect.

Other than the code, what are the symptoms of it failing? Did you get a Napa one?

The above comments indicates the positive battery connection is faulty. It needs cleaned not just R&R. Both the post and cable end, also the main power cable to the PDC. There will be a thin film, of not really corrosion but more of an oxidation that insulates the connection, usually black in color. However, sometimes in a clean environment and if the oxidation is just getting started it can be the same color as the lead so it can be hard to see. I would start there first.

Here is a better view.

What level on the Juice are you running? 5" exhaust will not help, you are not producing much flow at 60 mph is 6th. With your gear and tires, 60 in 6th is almost lugging. Try 65 in 6th or 55 in 5th and see. 650-700 is not high.

What did he replace the module with, oem or aftermarket, such as Vulcan? There are slots in the outer sleeve with screws threaded in the inner portion. I think it is shipped with the two pieces collapsed and the screws tight. Maybe he installed it that way and now it does not reach the bottom of the tank?? The Vulcan does not have the screws, it is an open design.

Isn't that your second one now? I am always amazed at all the gearbox problems that I see on the Cummins forums that I frequent. My '91 D-250 (332k miles) original.....'01 2500 4x4 (356k miles) one seal kit.....'74 Ford with '76 Dodge motorhome box ( no clue on miles) one seal kit. If you keep the fluid flushed and clean, the hard parts just don't wear out. Seal kit from Napa is about $20.

I bought a Big Red from TSC a few years ago when it was on sale. It works for me. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/big-red-40-in-rugged-plastic-creeper?cm_vc=-10005

Yes, I indicated that it was a straight forward repair until you get into bearings and shims. That's when it becomes complex, difficult and time consuming. New carrier bearings need bearing preload checked, you can't do that without pulling the pinion out. Now you have more bearings and shims to deal with. It is a domino effect. Bearings can be run slightly loose, but not over tight at all. Without knowing.....is my point. Wow, that bearing was toast. Makes you wonder now, huh?

That's why it was simple and quick....

Did you get new u-bolts, if so, what size? What part number springs? The 34-1335HD appear to be what you have? Six leaf v/s oem 4 leaf. They are $225 each. Let us know how the ride is. They look beefy. I went with 5/8's when I worked on my suspension. The original are kinda undersized and were rotten where they passed through the bottom axle clamp. It is a catch all for mud/water. https://www.autoandtrucksprings.com/1994-2002-dodge-ram-2500/3500-2wd-8800-gvw-and-greater-heavy-duty-rear-leaf-spring-34-1335hd/ Did you check/replace pinion bearings too/seal? How was your bearing preload and back lash numbers?

Since the box is a recon, that would be suspect. I don't think the hydro can block anything. I assume the pump is new, not recon.