2000Ram2500

What about those brave souls that run reusable filters..... https://www.jegs.com/i/Professional-Products/428/10870/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710580841&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=15769068431&CATCI=aud-646916420832:pla-199631605751&CATARGETID=230006180037475664&cadevice=c&jegspromo=thirdparty&gclid=CjwKCAjwgabeBRBuEiwACD4R5kI8bp4JA2-HqRv2CvklIPqxBPjc5b4VdOJWI-3JCZNc8PhnSmhqaxoCxm4QAvD_BwE

Last week is when this started. I was chasing that P1689 code and ended up replacing the data link connector on the edge harness and it seems okay so far. But looking at the map sensor connector this morning i noticed it was missing the rubber seal on both end of the connector and the pins looked to have some oxidation on them. I cleaned them and put some grease on there and no luck. Whats weird is no check engine light and everything seems to be running normally. If i didnt look at the gauge i would have had no idea it wasnt reading anything. Im hoping someone knows what that connector is called or who makes it so i can order one up and replace it but im also wondering if my sensor doesnt have corrosion on it from being exposed like that. Still doesnt make sense as to why the check engine light isnt on.

Same with mine very discolored and not corroded but that doesnt mean its impossible.

I grew up out there it doesnt get that cold. Not yet anyways. I do remember it getting pretty cold around new years or closer to it though. So then technically the short wire at the front would be an auxiliary ground then for the simple fact it cant ground through gaskets. It would be pretty easy to spot corrosion at that point. But what about the lifetime the power side spent connected to the battery? It would be possible for the battery side of those wires before the fusible link to see some effects from battery acid.

I would be very interested in doing this. I hate seeing how rough the heaters are on the electrical. Watching the voltage go from 14 to 12.5 just makes me cringe. I can attest to the improvement. While i didnt and still dont have a way to measure milivolts overall the truck drives alot better. Its not just a butt dyno it genuinely drives alot better. Shifting is a glide between gears its nowhere near as jerky as it was before.

To this day the 2013+ Rams are the only ones to come with 2 seperate filtration setups. The Ecodiesel grand cherokees have 2 filters but there 2 small canister filters in a shared housing and the ecodiesel half tons have a single filter about the size of the grand cherokee ones stacked together. Whats ironic is the people that come in and complain about the expensive fuel filters and decline the work are the ones that come back months later with problems and warranty doesnt cover neglect so they get to pay even more for diag, filters, and a cleaning additive. Unless there was other problems which there usually is in those situations and then they get to pay even more.

If i must be honest this pretty much explains any drum brake system. Theyre all held together with hopes and dreams i swear. I've seen on my old ford one of the thin metal retainers for the cable that went inside there from one arm to the adjuster or something like that but the metal retainer had rusted a little and bent and they werent very even old brakes/hardware either. Maybe a couple years old.

The reason i mentioned a capacitor was because they use them alot on higher power sound systems to provide a barrier between their amplifier and the battery. Its supposed to draw off the capacitor instead of the battery and when power consumption goes away the capacitor recharges itself from the battery. A buffer so to speak. If it wont work it wont work I was just throwing an idea out there. I would be curious to see though if you disconnected the heaters if your diode stopped getting hot and eliminate that as the cause for this.

MSRP on the factory heater is $220.00. Part# 5086720AC What about a capacitor? Something to take the load from being placed directly on the battery/alternator?

I had the rear most u joint at the axle go bad on me about a year and a half ago the only way i found it was because at highway speed against the k rail i could hear this slight chirp/squeak/squeal sound. But any speed lower than that it would go away. A couple days later i noticed a clunk when i changed from drive to reverse or reverse to drive and for me that gave it away as a u joint. If its something in your drums I would imagine it to be parking brake related if its only while backing up. Thats when theyre supposed to adjust.

Never been a chevy fan. Nothing personal just never liked them. I had a 2015 2500 with a 6.0. Awesome truck it was a great work truck and it ran really well . Sounded awesome. But gas mileage sucked and tow mode used every last rpm that thing had. Deccellerating with a trailer down a hill it would downshift and hold itself at redline just about. I sold it to get this diesel.

I had a Kirkland Signature in a 95 F150 it was 2 years old when i bought the truck and it survived 5 years of intense offroading. Jumping, whoops thru the desert some crawling etc. I think a plate must have broken because it was beyond dead by the time i realized it. This truck i have now had 2 optima yellow tops in it when i bought it they were 5 years old and they're about 7 or 8 years old now. Hoping they last a while i dont wanna have to buy 2 yellow tops any time soon. I was told optimas quality went down the drain when they started making them in mexico but i have no information on that it was just told to me a few years ago

My first guess was small block chevy but somethings telling me smallblock ford. Im assuming in the top right is spark plug wires? So was this taken of the passenger front part of the head or drivers rear part of the head? Distributor location says it all. Has to be v8 or maybe v6 because you can see what looks like the intake manifold behind the rockers.

Gears are definitely on the top of my list somewhere. I hate having 3.55s. Especially for hauling or towing. I had to tow my fully loaded enclosed from CA to home here and what a haul. I stopped at a scale and it weighed in at 18k pounds combined truck and trailer. I couldnt pull a slight grade without temps climbing fast. The two steep grades i had to go over were rough having to stop constantly to keep from blowing something up. Honestly 4.10s are too low for me I do alot of long highway drives so I need to find a happy medium I was thinking 3.73s or 3.9(idk)s something in that range. But we've got alot going on in life so unfortunately i have to wait before i do that..

I got this Edge secondhand from a coworker for $300. Technically third-hand because it was in his truck when he bought it. I didnt have the map adapter so i made one. Prowireusa on ebay sells weatherpack connectors for cheap he's got a website too but shipping is pricey unless you order several things. I'll be yanking it out one of these days here. Im sure i wont regret the quad. Even though it will be more money for me to go that route simply because i bought the edge used i know i'll be happier and for the functionality you get out of it you really cant beat it. I dont know of any other tuners that will allow you to tune it how you want it unless you go standalone and im not doing that on the truck, i'll leave the standalone for the buggy project.

I saw a chrysler 2.7 the guy let his kid drive around and he would give him some cash to change the oil every couple months. Well the kid never had the oil changed and spent it on who knows what. They estimated it to have about 30 or 40k miles on a single oil change, nothing added and no leaks in need of repair. And it seized the engine up solid. The sludge was equally as bad as these pictures. It was so bad in fact that they actually had to replace the timing cover, valve covers, and oil pan because they couldnt even chip away at the sludge. It had turned most of its oil into sludge and basically ran itself dry because there wasnt enough to circulate through the system. I never heard if it was conventional or synthetic oil... But it was bad. There was just a fraction of an inch of space between the sludge and timing chain. The valve cover sludge had a valvetrain imprint in it. This is the more common way that someone will see problems, they buy a used car that was ran into the ground with cheap oil changes and the new owner decides to use synthetic on a car with thousands of miles whatever sludge or debris is left or stuck to the seals will get cleaned by the synthetic oil thus causing a leak. Its just the way it is.... I've never heard of it happening the other way around and there is not real set point at which you should never use synthetic its just a matter of each engines condition

Fine........ lol ive been neglecting that for too long anyways @Mopar1973Man that is a nice simple setup. Im sold on the quadzilla now that i've looked into it and am kinda gaining an understanding of how this all works. Now i just need to find the cash. I could sell the edge to cover some but its still got a decent price tag. And i gotta convince the boss.. i mean wife

I did the same thing. Ran only FRAM for years then started using wix because the oreillys would give us a good deal on them. Now that im being more and more educated i might have to change over to fleetguard or donaldson Anyone here use baldwin? Thats what we used on the heavy trucks growing up thats all my dad would buy was baldwin filters.

@Mopar1973Man will have a few things to say about fuel pressure too

My paranoia probably stems from the fact my edge is mounted to my a pillar. I modified a magnetic phone mount to hold it there and stuck the magnet to the edge display and ran the cables up through my dash. It's an awesome spot for it but puts it in plain sight and when going to Phoenix I get pretty paranoid about someone seeing it.

Thats a good point especially in bad areas Im always paranoid someone is gonna pick me to mess with. I could still use my edge mount for my phone mount the way i've got it so when im driving the truck i could use that as my gauges as well and when im not driving it i just have a phone mount. guess its time to start saving up

Now thats an idea! I've been tossing around the idea of putting a couple real gauges in the stock radio location and building a nice compact cupholder with a spot for a double din radio down where the stock cupholder folds down. I'll have to check into that for sure.

That could also be they were cheap aftermarket mirrors and they vibrate like mad. Its so bad i drive without mirrors 90% of the time. Oh and my rearview fell off last summer and i haven't been able to get it to stick since so yea.. no mirrors haha Sorry if I hijacked

Is there a configuration of the quad that gives you a screen like the edge does? Or is it only bluetooth. I love having my screen with the gauges right there on it.

When you say sub1 are you talking about the boost compensation it has built in?