2000Ram2500

He says in the comments its a 12.6 to 30 lb spring i think. Sure beats spending 70 plus dollars on an actuator if you can find the right spring. Come to think of it a friend had a turbo vw bug that had a spring wastegate. It definitely boosted that thing was fast.

Happened to stumble across this video on youtube over the weekend. Was wondering what everyones thoughts were. Looks pretty simple just not sure if there are any cons to it. Only thing that comes to mind right away is how does he plug the existing port for the wastegate?

After we pulled the motor to swap in another one he had laying around we split the case and it was not pretty. Journals were all scored. Case was destroyed he needed a new everything after that.

A buddy of mine used to have a 72 beetle that we swapped an offroad motor into which had an external oil filter. Lines were all rotted and i told him he would be safe to test drive it but he'd better make sure he gets new oil lines before he really drives it. Well needless to say he never changed them out and about 2 weeks later hes down the street from a friends house that i was at and blew the oil line off and lost every drop off oil and seized the engine. So we drove over to him and figured out what happened and since he was in the middle of town autozone was nearby we picked up some oil from there and grabbed some jumper cables and a big wrench from the house and used the starter to help get the engine to crank over while we tried to turn it by hand. Put the oil in and tightened up the line and believe it or not he drove it for another 2 months and it kept running but it never did sound right after that... It is possible to run something out of oil and keep it going I guess its just luck of the draw. Me personally I keep tire chains, water, basic tools, medical/survival kit, decent jack (even though i dont have a spare...), fire starting stuff, tie downs, got a couple jack stands and blocks of wood to chalk tires, really just random junk is floating around in my toolbox but ive used all of it before for desert trips and usually friends need it more than i do. I also keep fuses and electrical tools in case a wire gets nicked or something minor especially now that i chased down problems for a month and a half with that p1689.. and about a year and a half ago i was sort of stranded in the middle of the rocky mountains in the middle of the night nowhere near a town. I think the nearest town was pagosa springs and that was still an hour drive. Had to modify my torque converter lockup wire i removed the switch but left the wire and it was causing me problems. You get creative in the middle of nowhere. Used a rock to put a battery cable back on before lol We actually fixed a pinhole in a friends radiator hose with duct tape and silicone and it held up for about 2 weeks before he got another hose. Zipties and duct tape are a must. I should probably carry an extra bit of oil but i feel like if i lose one quart im losing the rest anyways and at that point im calling for help or getting creative anyways. Im gonna stop i could go on way too long

I recognize that freeway. Used to drive it everyday to get to jack powell from valley center where i grew up

The pinout for the engine mounted apps is very good. Nice description of what each wire does. But the one for an 06 for example is really vague. What got me wondering is the 06s still have the 3 bolts on the head/manifold for the apps to attach to. So in my mind that tells me that they were planning on some other configurations or that they just didnt feel the need to take those holes out of there casting just yet.

Sorry if the title doesnt make sense Im wondering if its possible to swap from the engine mounted APPS to the 3rd gen style pedal. Both are 6 pin connectors. And honestly i hate that anytime i wanna do something to the drivers side of the engine im running into the sensor being right there in my way. The only thing that would pose an issue would be the TV cable but Im sure theres a way around that.. Just food for thought.

What about an s300g with decent (90/100hp) injectors and 3.73s running a quality quadzilla tune

Without a doubt the autos have more issues. Thats been dodges downfall for as long as i can remember. It only got worst with daimler when they introduced the chrysler version of a mercedes automatic transmission. Those things are junk. The minivan transmissions are terrible too. But not all just alot. My dad had an 06 megacab cummins we towed equipment a 5th wheel a goose neck it got alot of abuse but somehow made it to 190k miles before it went out. Thats not to say manuals are bullet proof though. I know the 5 speeds had an issue with a nut backing off. The 6 speeds are awesome transmissions though. And the new aisin automatic there putting in these heavy duty trucks seems to be good too. I havent seen many of those come in at all

Im also trying to compare apples to oranges here between a superchips from 04 and the quad with unlimited capabilities.. and with compounds you have alot more air to clean up that exhaust as well. So i guess its a misconception on my part.

I couldnt pass smog in CA with a superchips i dont know how your gonna sneak compounds and huge injectors by

We'll see if this link works. See if any of these fit your description https://www.google.com/search?q=DIESEL+FUEL+FILTER+WITH+SIGHT&rlz=1C1CHBD_enUS753US753&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjKiOagmZ3eAhVhwMQHHeigAFkQsAR6BAgFEAE&biw=950&bih=951

Im not sure what temp my thermostat is but it seems to kick in right at 190. My coolant temp is usually in the ballpark of 192 once its actually up to temp. I live in northern AZ so cold winters and hot summers. Does fine during the summer here the only thing that gets hot is my trans but i think the cooler is to blame there. I will say though it does NOT like towing in hot weather. The weigh station said i was just over 18k lbs combined. Pulling a steep grade it got to 244 for the engine and 266 for the trans before i could pull over. Cant say the thermostat is the culprit but maybe a 180* thermostat would have helped

I should mention something that just came to mind that i learned a few months ago. Chrysler has spent tons of time and money figuring out how to perfectly charge a battery. Ie for our trucks: battery temp sensor, pcm voltage regulator. Ie for new stuff: battery temp sensor, pcm voltage regulator, battery voltage sensor, etc. Basically they figured out that temperature affects how a battery maintains a charge and have stopped at nothing to find the perfect way to charge a battery and in the process have found other factors involved as well. I dont think it was too "powerful" on our trucks but in the last few years the cars are killing batteries because a bad sensor rather than going into a "safe mode" so to speak to protect the integrity of the battery

I would recommend against removing the airbag module or the others. As I learned on here a while back the computers all communicate with eachother so that would probably cause some issues.

If the specified bolt doesnt work I attached mine to a stud that was originally intended for holding the harness to the back of the timing cover. Seems to be an adequate ground location so far. Maybe someone else will have some other input -I also lost the bolt in the gravel so i didnt have much of a choice if i wanted to drive it that day

Not sure if having injectors changes things Im almost positive it does, but my dad had an 02 high output nv5600 duallie with an edge and banks stuff on it and hauling a mini excavator up a decent grade on level 4 in 4th gear it pulled it perfectly with 39 psi of boost on a bone stock engine just bolt on upgrades. Never had a single problem with that truck except the lift pump was a POS until he got an air dog on it. Granted that was with only 120k miles on it back in the mid 2000s..

Mine actually did this exact thing starting when i had my buddy (professional trans guy for the record) rebuild my transmission. I always thought it had something to do with the shift kit until a couple months ago when i did the W-T wiring mod and ever since then it just glides right into second gear. It was a night and day difference driving the truck after doing that.

Agreed. I've needed a trackbar since i bought the truck but I've got the intake exhaust edge etc. The trackbars not broken i just have to drive with the wheel turned 90*

@Mopar1973Man I've got to ask what app or program your using that looks perfect for maintenance and i could use the help keeping track

Dividing by .5 is the same as multiplying by 2. Dividing by .1 is the same as multiplying by 10. (Im a nerd sorry..) which is quite the wide swing in amperage. If the 120 figure is close than that means its taking almost every amp the alternator puts out which would be quite the load on it. Ours are 136 i think right?

But in the specs down a few pages it says 50psi minimum? But im assuming you have already been using it and it works? I thought our engines were more in the 40psi range. I've never had a true gauge on there im just going off the factory gauge

air cooled vw

Its a Metri-Pack I just found it.. Might as well get this ordered I just spoke to the guy I got this edge from and apparently he had a problem with the map sensor plug one of the pins was loose and comes out once in a while so that solves that I guess. https://www.amazon.com/CNKF-Metri-Pack-position-connector-terminals/dp/B01LYRHNEX So i found that my local napa had the pigtail in stock. Part# EC89 for those wondering or needing a map sensor plug. Looks to be the same as the fuel pressure sensors we use