2000Ram2500

hey man i work at a dealer...... but your right. we get alot of real "winners" in the service dept.. half the problem is the techs dont wanna look into anything because they only get paid per job. Service writers dont usually know any better and just wanna sell the job. The factory barely gives us enough information to do our jobs in parts where i work and the service side is worse. And they scatter information all over the place. You cant search for anything because it pulls up mostly irrelevant junk or the diagnostic tree/flow chart. Not really any supplemental information available to us. I'm glad im on the parts side of things lol

Not sure what the name of those is but the factory part# is 52028764AA if you wanna go that route. Looks like a "bushing" as they call them sometimes..

I wish it was stock height honestly. Its a pain to work on. Sluggish taking off from a light because im moving a big truck and big tires with 3.55s. Ride is sub par. Maybe in the future I'll find at least a smaller lift to put on this thing.

Its sad thats becoming common. I see it as bad business myself. Unless its not worth it for the customer then why not try to make a sale. Every penny counts. And the next time that customer comes in you might sell them a few hundred bucks in parts you just never know. If nothing else your customer will see you as helpful instead of worthless. Thats just my opinion though. Doesnt make sense to turn business away. I'd say you have the advantage. No EGR. No DEF. No complicated computer systems. Easy to work on for the most part. And its not a GM product. I did have a 2015 Chevy 2500HD for a work truck for about a year and a half. It wasnt a bad truck but I went from that to my 2000 Cummins for a reason. I had to bring that chevy in for service because a connector got water in it supposedly. I didnt have it for more than 2 months and it went into limp mode because of that i could only go about 35 mph. Ironically it hadnt rained for months then so its beyond me what happened but they told me it just needed some dielectric grease on some connector.

Yeah i think i saw like 4-6 weeks on his website somewhere. I think the anticipation would be the worst part. I love getting truck parts in the mail

You'd be taking so much of the transmission apart. Thats all above the valve body and i think even after that you wouldnt be able to get to it because if i remember right theres part of the casting still in the way which would mean removing the whole trans so you can pull it completely apart etc...

I hate when dealerships do that.. Since I work for a dealer I can see other dealerships that have that number in there inventory. They could order it in from another dealer they just dont want to is what it comes down to...

I am in the market for a track bar as the title would imply. However im looking into this dodge offroad place. http://store.dodgeoffroad.com/ he's got a ton of options and customization for lift kits etc. I like his design. He's claiming a 100% success rate or i think he actually says he's got a 0% failure rate. My truck is lifted and i definitely use my truck but i try to take care of it. I hate cheaping out on certain things that I know are notorious for problems. Im just seeing if I cant gather a couple opinions.

If I'm understanding you correctly, me personally I would try to route those wires over to the buckle and make it work the way its supposed to. You'll definitely want that circuit closed though, because I believe the airbag won't deploy unless that circuit is closed but I may be wrong. Off topic but not really you could do what a cousin of mine did and wire a kill switch into your seat belt circuit. The logic behind it is if someone is stealing your truck they probably won't be putting a seat belt on right away and think the truck wont start and walk away from it. But that would be a nightmare in colder weather or hot summers when you want the truck to warm up...

If all else fails Part# 56005414 fits 93 to 98 grand cherokee and 94 to 02 full size trucks. A dealer in Renton WA shows one in stock. Other dealers do as well around the country.

I believe you need to be looking at figure 7-620 which is page 126 of the PDF parts lookup tool. At least thats the diagram of the tank that I believe your talking about. Although the lines will be in the other picture posted earlier. #2 and #6 will be the ones going under the bell housing. Part#'s 52028732AC and 52028633 respectively. Take it from someone working for chrysler right now. I can look up common rail engines and newer stuff and still get a diagram of old stuff. Its kinda at random. Not sure why its like that but it would be nice if they were able to maybe at least make the diagrams accurate.

I was just wondering if there was anything in particular to look for as far as what the oil contains for additives or a particular brand that was better than the others. I see supertech and some philips route 66 branded stuff at the beginning but like in my banshee I usually run the Maxima Castor 927 which is more along the lines of a race oil and can get kinda pricey which im assuming is the reason for the supertech.

Made it around to doing the W-T wiring mod this weekend. Alternator now charges the passenger battery and the ground goes to the timing case with an extra ground to the drivers side battery. Did a fair amount of running around yesterday and have yet to have it act up but it took a whole week for the code to come back last time so it make take some time but for now it seems to be doing well. I disconnected the BD APPS noise isolator while i was at it to see if this really did solve the issue as the torque converter lockup was really bad and noticeable before the kit hence the reason i bought it. Will report back if any issues persist with this.

So I drove it a couple days with the grid heaters disconnected. Hooked them back up yesterday. I was getting the same symptoms and it was getting progressively worse each day but no p1689 code. Finally this morning on my way to work it gave me the code. So I'm back to the beginning with my diagnostics. I'll do a search on the how to for the reroute of that ground wire and do that this weekend. I need to do it anyways I never fully trusted that BD kit or the idea that simply putting a diode or resistor or whatever it is inline will fix all your problems. I'm thinking I might as well eliminate alternator interference before I throw a ton of money at this thing. The reason I'm thinking alternator interference is because replacing the sensor actually helped it. Even now with the symptoms getting bad it's like it's barely there. I barely notice it but I can tell. So if replacing an old apps with a new apps made the problem get better but not fix it then it has to be related. I hope anyways..

After running errands i didnt get a check engine light back on again but i felt it stumble two different times. I'll try disconnecting the grid heater before i drive it next. That should be easy to do because i have optimas with the side posts and i had to isolate most of the terminals that go to the batteries and not by choice. Probably about 2 years ago now the battery hold down was broken and I hit a bump and my passenger battery fell out and the ground came off stalling the truck which then touched positive side which was shorting to ground using the positive lug through the ground cable. I had molten lead all over it was dripping on the radiator hose and intercooler boot and then the top of the battery caught fire for a second and at that moment is when i popped the hood and saw all this going on. I had to redo 90% of my battery wiring after that but i was lucky and had no other issues caused by it. The new APPS sensor made a difference in itself though the throttle feels alot better probably because its a new sensor and its newly calibrated. Im assuming i was successful in resetting the computer as well and maybe thats why too. We'll see what i find probably tomorrow.

Did some searching around and figured I would post my experience here. Alot of people replacing the VPs over this it seems like. I went onto the dealer site and found the diagnostic tree for this code. Nowhere does it say replace the pump. It says either electrical/wiring issue which I understand could be the circuit in the pump, or the ECM. Personally I am assuming my circuit board is fine and I have a problem elsewhere. I live where there is an issue with rat damage. My pump is tapped for the Edge. I had a spare APPS to try. I tried the relay swap that moparman suggests. I cant fully rule out alternator noise but i have the BD kit and keep that ground wire routed over my intake tube to keep it off the back of the alternator and I haven't had the torque converter issue in months which I would notice because I have a triple disc converter you know when it locks up. I've been researching all week and finally yesterday had a chance to do some actual work on the truck. I disconnected the batteries and left the key on the whole time to do a reset as I saw someone suggest I just did it for a couple hours while i was working on it and so i didnt zap myself somehow. I got the APPS out of the way so i could really look at the wiring underneath. The plug on the VP looks fine and the terminals had plenty of grease, same for the APPS connector. The APPS sensor itself had a rusted out imprint of the bellcrank arm in it which im sure is to be expected from snaps of the throttle and years of weather and maybe it was causing the sensor some confusion? I changed it anyways. Given that my pump is tapped for the Edge i suspected possibly an issue there but the tap was still in there nice and solid. I looked and felt around as best as i could to hopefully rule out rat damage and I couldnt see or feel any chewed up wires all the way up to the ECM connector. However i did notice a tiny little nick in the tap wire itself right next to where the grid heater wire comes up to the intake horn. I fixed that little nick and got the wire cleaned up. It got me wondering though, could the grid heater have caused the intermittent loss of power somehow because it runs so close to the tap wire, and i know those relays kick on randomly while driving. It would cut out more so right after start up and really only from 25 to 45, and on a longer trip across town by the time i got by my destination the loss of power was gone i had no symptoms of the code anymore other than the light on the dash. I've been running the edge on stock all week just to be safe and even cranked it up to 5 and it was running like a beast. So this is where I'm at with this. Basically Im just wondering if that huge grid heater wire was giving off interference through my edge tap wire and causing my problem. Gotta run errands and will see if what i did yesterday fixed my issue.

We do alot of aftermarket accessories here but we try not to do a whole lot of aftermarket parts for repairs unless we have to or get it authorized through chrysler first for warranty. Backorders are so bad we have no choice but to go aftermarket. Batteries take weeks to show up we cant keep a customer waiting 3 or 4 weeks to replace a battery. Right now theres a problem with the reverse gear in the 6 speeds in wranglers we cant even order the gear until July of next year due to a supply shortage. But when someone brings there 79 CJ in we dont really have a choice but to start calling around for aftermarket prices. I see it says your in San Marcos I grew up in Valley Center and worked at Jack Powell in Escondido for 5 years. If you need parts from there you can ask for Nolan he's been there for about 4 or 5 years now but he'll help you out just tell him Kenneth sent you. Theyre the biggest wholesale dealer in the county so they have a ton in stock and can usually get parts same or next day if you ask them but if its coming from far away they'll probably wanna charge freight.

And thats why we left lol. Aside from the fact that I worked 5 or 6 days a week just to keep my rented room in a shared house and couldn't afford anything else

I grew up in Valley Center its a small town at least it used to be before the casinos went in now you get people that don't even know what town they drive through to get to the casinos, they literally know it as "where the casinos are". To me its where I grew up not casino land. They're cutting down all the avocado and orange groves for new houses and blaming the water shortage.

Oh believe me dodge doesn't like most of the things we do to modify them or fix them. They want you to run the in tank fuel pump conversion for example but you can really only get a decent replacement from them for 400 bucks when you could get a decent frame mounted pump for the same price and you dont have to drop the tank when you need to replace it. The G56 in the 3rd/4th gens was built by Mercedes and Mercedes recommends there special oil (50w or something like that) and dodge says ATF+4. I would tend to believe the maker of the transmission personally... I could go on lol

I just joined the other day. Living in Prescott. Love it out here. Moved from the better part of San Diego county if there is such a thing and not looking back. No smog everything is cheaper and the people don't suck. Probably not exactly my place since im sonew myself but welcome

As with everyone here im sure, I'm hoping I learn a lot and I'm hoping I can help out as well. Thanks for the welcome everyone.

My name is Kenny. Been following mopar1973man across several platforms/forums for about as long as I've owned this truck which has been since July of 2016. I'm no stranger to Dodge Cummins trucks but don't know everything. This is my first Cummins but growing up my dad had an 02 Laramie duallie an 06 megacab duallie and he now has a 2015 2500. We've done a fair amount of work and modifications to these trucks except for his new truck so like I said I'm no stranger to these trucks. I also currently work at a dodge dealer and have been since February of 2012. So if anyone needs any factory direct information I may be able to help although they keep me pretty busy here which is good. Been Chrysler certified since 2013 but I let it lapses so technically I'm 3 years certified but really I'm 5. I've tried to "specialize" in these Cummins trucks I mainly have knowledge pertaining to 2nd gen trucks but know a little about 3rd gens as well. They dont have any diesel specific parts classes honestly the parts training is somewhat of a joke as far as technical knowledge is concerned but I think they keep us in the dark on purpose for whatever reason. I'm glad to finally be a member of the official forum this is the only forum I'm subscribed to as far as Cummins goes. Again I've been following mopar1973man for a while now so I'm just glad to be here. I'll be more than willing to help and I need help with this truck as well so its a win win.