pepsi71ocean

Well guys, I wired up a relay to power my starter from one of the extra switches on the truck. I'm wondering if this will effect he high idle, because the truck didn't do it yesterday morning as it was 20f out.

I think it is the purple cam on the valve body. It has a crack in it, and I suspect that it cause the truck to not register park or neutral, so it doesn't want to start because it thinks it's in a gear.

I rebuilt it myself. I was rebuilding alternators and testing out different diode packs and I left the sealing ring out. It's funny I always bench tested them before I put it in. Dum me. For not doing that time. Lucky it was just on my truck, I rebuilt several and luckily for me it was the for my truck that was botched.

It's not that rare. I fried my PCM on a botched rebuilt alternator. Granted that simple missing ring cost me about $400 and lead to one of the most prolific articles ever written.

I'm assuming based on how quickly my truck went from smoke free to smoking that the set pressure dropped fast back then. I think somewhere around 305-295 is where the pop pressure effects programmers and smoke control. Currently, I have a little over 1,100 miles on the truck with the @322 bar injectors. I've had the truck start up down into the high 20s with out the grid heaters. The truck idles very smooth and I've played with this smarty again and I'm just smoke free. But I can say that the truck barely haze's at 25-30f out when it's cold. Unlike how is always been with injectors before.. White smoke everywhere.

It makes a world of a difference in sound. My exhaust finally broke before my FTE resonator the other day. As for me I didn't notice any performance difference. Now I suspect that is because the 4" is much larger then the flow of the motor. Therefore any restriction that could be there is not there. The only difference is sound, that drone is killer. Irony has it that I was looking to replace that exhaust because it was coming apart anyways. Now I have an excuse to replace it.

Please do. So I'll add it to the list.

I think it's the can in the rooster tail. When I was putting it up, i had to do it too get that E clip out of the parking paw, it zingged when I was tryin to put it on. And I think that is when the valve body slide on me. I'm fault sure that purple thing is cracked.

I cant get my finger deep enough inside. ironically im also having transmission shifting issues so now im also chasing other stuff.. Its the pin from he relay that is closest to the drivers side of the truck. I literally put a plug into it and hop it onto the positive terminal from the battery. I believe its the brown wire socket? I'll take a photo in a min. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Also, @Dynamic I wanted to give some feed back. So far no stalling issues with the truck.. It did it once yesterday when we first got it moving, but after 120 miles of driving, and dozens of idling and shifting no stalling issues. I'm really happy. I can idle in drive at a stop light and the truck temp stays about 160. The truck runs so much better. Now, some quirks, and Im not sure if this is me, (my install or related to this non starting issue), When I take my foot off the pedal the truck coasts (which is normal IIRC), but if i drop it into manual 2 or manual 1, it doesn't downshift unless the O/D off is turned on? I noticed that if i keep my foot on the pedal and lift it slowly it will downshift? Is this a TV cable issue, maybe the shift linkage, or say a loose band or say a cocked valve in a bore? I did my best to let the trans sit in neutral ball and adjust the shiftier rod. --------------------- @IBMobile here is the photo

Check the condition of the obd2 port. My 99 stopped working and I needed to replace the pins with a pig tail obd harness.

@IBMobile do you think that crank in the purple thing could be causing the NSS to not work? I'm not sure why, but I suspect that is the issue at this point. I swapped it with a new one and it still won't start. But jumping it directly from the battery to the one side works. When I put the valve body up i think it may have cracked?

I have an open loop on 85 regardless of the position. Testing the starter cracking now. I swapped the NSS this am and saw this. Could this have something to do with it? I think that could be a crack in the plastic piece but I'm not sure women?

Any suggestions on that? I probed the switch on the one prob I got 0.4ohm for resistance. I think that could be it?

The PCM was rebuilt, but it show voltage when key is on and the scan gauge. The ECM also reports iat temperature and water temperature as well. The starter relay is getting 12v when I key forward. However, on the 85 side of the starter it is not showing voltage? @Mopar1973Man I have the red probe on the positive side, and the black probe in 85, key forward it reads 0.00 volts. Now the only other things that is odd is I dropped the valve body, and shipped it to Dynamic. I'm now wondering if the netural safety switch could have something to do with this? I tried pulling it tonight, I can't get a socket on the dam thing lol. It's 1" but I can't get a crows foot on it. Is it possible that the neutral safety switch can be bad, but still allow the truck reverse lights to come on when in reverse?

It doesn't even click. Lights come on, and when you go to crank nothing happens. I did rebuild the starter. It cranks over with a screw driver. The lift pump doesn't even bump. It's really confusing.

Hey guys, so ive done several good wiring go overs and I can't get my truck to start. I suspect now it could be the neutral safety switch, but I'm not sure at this point since the reverse lights come on when the truck is in reverse. I'm out of ideas here. EDIT: I pulled codes with the scan gauge and got po602, and po1689 Also can anyone tell me what this plug is for? I believe there is a purple and white wire on it. I think it's the CCD, but I don't remember now.

So I'm in the process of putting the truck back together and I ran into an issue. My fass draw straw is oof the old design, the new fittings I got for my fass don't work with the fass95. So I was going to take the inner during on the draw straw and use that on the fass pump. But that leaves my draw straw. I was looking at getting the Fass Sump kit since it allows you to draw from the inside of the bowl. Being here in Jersey I don't foresee any issues with hitting brush, etc that could cause it it be knocked out. I refuse to use a sump that requires an external hose, as I'm currently dealing with an enlarged hole for my old draw straw. If your wondering this is what it looks like. https://www.xtremediesel.com/fass-stk-5500-fuel-sump-kit?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyKPM25us5wIVGKSzCh20sQvFEAQYASABEgL2a_D_BwE Anyone have any long term reports of it's reliability, if it leaks, etc. I'm currently on the fence with buying one, vs trying to find more fittings. It would be nice to get back to putting 30 gallons of diesel in the truck lol

It was a Cummins box. I'm not sure who the MFG was. But the Mopar label was over the Cummins label. I wish I bought two at the time Mike. I would have gladly sent you an extra one.

I have a pacbrake and having tested it on other trucks it is amazing. I have one in my truck now. The question is when will my truck be running lol You have a manual truck so your good with that. If you can get your hands on an older Jacobbs brake you would be good with that too. As for rotors get ones that are more then the bottom end. Bee happy you have slip on rotors! Lol

I would like to confirm that the 6.7l t stat is the same size as our stats in the VP trucks. I do believe that my 200f t stat came from Cummins, it was just a relabled Cummins stat.

There are few things I will buy at the dealership. I bought a Mopar 200f t stat for an 2008 Dodge 3500. It works great.

On which side?

A word of note, I have had the same issues with my 99. And I had to grind the passenger caliper down to increase the room between the calipers ans the C knuckle/hub. Before I did that I may have gotten 20,000 out of a set of pads. I guarantee that if you measure it you'll see the calipers are binding against the C knuckle. It took me a long time of trial and error to realize this. I believe that your issue is the same as mine was. The spacing between the metal brackets that the caliper slides in between of is to narrow on allot of reman calipers

The bolded section is my write-up to a T. Regardless of how you get there, tuning a truck is the most important thing one can do.

Actually was up at the truck today so I shot some photos. It's so quiet like a steam engine sitting in an abandoned roundhouse... You can see the last gauge on the steering column. I'll admit I'm in love with my Diprocols. And I still get asked about them at least twice a year. If I'm going to sell them they are waiting.....