pepsi71ocean

I'm running DiProcols. Yes they are old lol 0-1,600F for a pyrometer 0-30psi Fuel Pressure 0-35psi for boost 0-300*F for transmission temp If your goal is to stay close to stock then 0-35 psi is good for a boost gauge. If your going much over that then 0-60 psi.

There is a company in California that builds wiring harnesses for vehicles. You ship them your current one and they build you a new one. Can't remember their name. I'd have to look.

90-100psi is fine, but it's not if you starting in 2nd or 3rd your going to have issues with burning up the clutches. It's too much to start in 2nd or even 3rd.

Your gonna burn up that tranny if you don't. Something's not reading correctly and that is now starting higher. Remember that stock PCM line pressures are 55 idle and 90 going down the road. I'm wondering if a resistor can fail and show true line voltage? @Mopar1973Man Like if the voltage 5v the resistor should show 4.6v. if it fails does it show 5v thought it?

What is your line pressure. You need to verify this now. Flip through this article and start testing, Did you wire in a resistor to the wiring harness for the GPS?

I've been told that the BW upgraded one is better then the GM conversion, but I dono.

Let me know how it works out for you.

I have the borg Warner one and the stock block and I have head mine for a while. I think the upgraded ones are worth it

Why not use shorter rods?

Go through the article data base and choose a reputable builder. Then give me an update on the the new reman as time goes on. I have to update that article when I get a chance.

Time to drop the pan and look, I bet you there GPS is failing.

In which location does that go into Mike? I'm thinking maybe the PS pump set up?

I do believe they are fully interchangeable. But I think that just raises your displacement to something like 6.2 or 6.4l I can't remember.

I believe that the blue/white wire it's the power wire for the central timer. It is on the 99 Dodge that is.

Did you try a dodge one? Mine from Dodge out of a 2008 6.7L works flawlessly

The fluid channel is changed when you go from D-N-1 as it runs on a separate clutch pack. If you have a built trans with higher line pressures your likely to have a resistor go bad, if it is indeed line pressure related. But it should still force a manual 1 shift.

Can I ask why your running such a low thermostat? I run a 200 in my truck and I haven't seen any issues with that yet. I can burn you out of the cab when it's 0 out and the heater core is running 175°f out of the vents.

What did you mean with the bolded statement above? Another test is to unplug the sensor connector at the top of the valve body. And let the valve body work in hydraulic mode. You will not have over drive, but it should start in 1st. If it doesn't then you definitely have a valve body issue.

Because if the relay has failed it's better to know. That relay controls the power for both the transmission and the alternator. It's the feed that runs the solenoids inside the transmission for lock up.

Your should not be doing that. That cardboard thing can make things worse. I still use my winter front I made from the lexan from years ago that fits in the grill. Even when it hits 45/50 during the day it never over heats. What tstat are you running? Even when I was in PA in 5°f weather I was still seeing 200°f coolant temps

Try shifting it into netural then back into drive or manual 1. My guess is that sitting the truck off will also kill the fluid pump in the transmission. Even if the GPS is reading high, shifting the truck into manual 1 will force the transmission into 1st gear.

Is this a stock auto? I don't think it's a governor pressure solenoid Mike. I wonder what his front servo looks like, and I'm wondering if this is a sticking 1-2 shift shuttle. It's possible that the fluid is side loading the bore, or that the front servo piston is getting cooked. Either way I feel like a drop off the pan is desired to check the condition of the bands and maybe drop the valve body or pull the sensors and check if the filters are clogged. The reason I say this is that if he puts it into manual one he will be running on a different band pack, the face that it didn't change and drop gear means that the manual override isn't working. There aren't too many bands that are applied in one vs the other. This makes me wonder about that front servo.

Check the transmission relay under the hood in the PDC. Swap it with another one of the same size. It sounds like the relay went bad.

It puts a good load in the motor to prevent the coking on the valves. The 24v's flow so much air at idle it cools the head off at an idle when it's cold. Watching the engine struggle to warm up while it wet stacks is like asking for issues with bent push rods.

Never mix gas with diesel. The ethanol alone will **** up the injection pump. As for the fuel issue, I've run summer blend fuel in the cold and it's done similar to what your describing.