pepsi71ocean

Most interesting, i will keep this written up and test this on my 08 dodge before putting it into the Owners manual.

something seems way wrong here, i towed a 14,000lbs empty 5th wheel camper and averages almost 15mpg?(well 14 and change):tongue:im really curious as to if the transmission makes a difference.:shrug:And if my 99 got 12.5mpg ide retire it for my 08 dodge that gets the same towing 20,000lbs

and yet they are not torqued to handle 33-35psi, i know of plenty of trucks that came through the Cummins shop that had lifted heads. if you run over 30 psi you should re torque the head studs. if this was not the case why do the guys at the Cummins shop re torque them to 135lbs instead of 125 when they reinstall a new gasket on the blown 5.9l's?

yes transmission line pressure, but you need a 0-200psi gauge i am sure. how many miles are on your truck? and did you check the grounds, maybe try a lock up switch just in case to see.

i agree. my .02c once your on idle and your coasting for example i have noticed that exhaust temperatures will drop off if the truck is moving, and coasting at the same time. i believe that provided you wait the exra few mins till it hits 250-300 then your safe. once your not powering the oil cooler will draw excess heat away from the oil before it goes through the turbo, combind with the engines cooled piston temperatures will allow for cooler air to go through and cool the metal, and the oil will draw the metal temperature down below the 350F by the time egt's hit 300. by waiting till you hit 250F your exhaust turbine side is (outside with a temp gun), colder then the exhaust air inside the turbo. and thus your turbo will also be colder as well. oil will not coke when the median temp is below the 350F mark.

i vote for dap injectors, i went with some 60's and im really happy with what i have. i also saw about a 2mpg gain when i swapped over.

the only reason you should over torque them, and not check their torque is because you are runnign more boost.the stock bolts at stock torque are good to about 28psi, and should be re torqued down if your going up to 40psi. anything above that and you should consider head studs.

Here is my 6637 on the right, used as you can tell, and my 2790 on the left. new Here is a visual of the diameter. If that 2790 on the left wears out in under 40,000 miles ide be surprised, because the 6637 lasted about 52,000, and it saw service is really bad areas. AND if you look inside you can see the filter is still clean as a bell.

from what i rememeber it was 1:55, not 1:30. if you do you MUST add 2 stroke oil and might as well as run kerosene as well. in the winter(during snow storms and really bad weather, i run 2 gallons of kerosene to a 28 gallon fuel tank, with 32oz of 2 stroke oil. And i have been doing this for years. I should also note that when i did tests on the cloud point of diesel (using the freezers at work that were -30 below), the 2 stroke oil mix with kerosene was slightly cloudy but not frozen, unlike the regular winter diesel in the test.

gentlemen, please understand that atf has no lubrication in it at all, it is a friction additive. It is mean to help add friction to the bands and clutch packs, if it was a lubricant they would use it in manual transmissions as a lubricant. also, it is red in color, red is the color of untaxed fuel, get caught with that and you will be paying fines based on your odometer, so it can pose a real problem. if you want to add a lubricant add 2 stroke oil, it is indeed a lubricant, it is meant to be mixed with fuel.

should port your head as well, and maybe a valve job while it is out getting decked.that is my two cents. see when i do my head gasket in a few months i will be doing the same thing, lifting the head, and having it decked, and then im having a port and valve job done for the motor. this way when i put it back with my motor it is all done, along with head studs.

sounds like something was not put back together right. you do have a leak, and is it possible your injectors are not inline with the cross over tubes? if you have time review my injector install video and see if you miss anything.

since no one else has mentioned it. How many miles do you have on your truck, did you load test the alternator and the batteries?

Yea but like th guy pointed out in the other three there is no difference between a 3 and a 4 inch exhaust. Why would a 700 up motor be different

I think he was asking why are there bigger exhaust pipes on the big rig trucks when there is no need as the guy stated with the dyno results personal I think there is a need for a larger exhaust about 4 inch for our trucks because it allows for better spool up of the turbo and cooler exhaust

The only comparison was a general one because even my 08 acts the same way as the international doe. I was not going to get to indepth on the finer points

im not saying go Chinese, but i know you can find genuine HX35's and HX40's everywhere in junk yards on old Cummins engines. Now as for the Chinese stuff i think Jacob had one or two kind he was selling im not if prowelder had one, but i would go with something that works good. My opinion is to not go over the edge your HY has to small of a turbine, only 9cm and the HX has a 12, the HX-40 is 14cm, and is to big for what your looking for. I would scavenge the CF for one, heck a rebuild kit is only 80 bucks for one. Im running a smarty with 60HP injectors and my HX holds fine with it, now i would think an HX would do you good. i think a super B might be to much for you, but you can call Jacob and ask.

IMO either a HX-35, or a 35/40. i would think the HX-35 with a boost elbow would be more then suffice, they will push alot of air, the next step up is a 40 Compressor wheel on a 35 turbine,. EDIT: As for CEL's right, my Vp-44 died, truck ran like crap and no CEL:lol:, Oh wait but it went off a few years later when i accidentally knocked my shifter from 2wd to 4lo. and hit my high idle switches at the same time.

But that is 5.9L of air Per Revolution (i think ) and so if your RPM's go up so does the amount of air coming out, more boost, more air movement, in which the smaller 3 inch pipe will reach maximum velocity. Once that is attained then the system becomes bogged down. Besides increasing boost means your increasing your air into the engine per CID, so you might not have 5.9L of air once your running 40lbs of boost.

this is quite true. Because when your running higher boost you will be pushing more air through the system, which larger pipe will lower the back pressure post turbo and allow for better spool up.

second gen trucks are notorious for not having a CEL come on, they will nly CEl when a hard code is set or when you have a number of codes present i think like 8 or 10.

yes this is true, but i noticed that when i added a air filter i saw a better response, so i know there is something going on, at least when i did my truck there was.

you do have a interesting though here.i have suspected for a long time i had a exhaust leak up by the engine, because of the smell of exhaust gasses, but with the excessive leaks on my tail pipe line i always figure they came from there.

something is not right here, i have started my truck up when it was 4F out and had high idle fire right up and she was hitting 170 withing 8 mins, and then kicks down to idle when she hit 175F sounds like the connectors are adding resistance somewhere, glad i soddered mine in!

hmm, i was under the impression that the fuel systems die like they do on the 2nd gens. stories of draining the fuel rails on lightly modified trucks and such.