CSM

Check out the tech note at the link below... click on the tech note tab. http://www.quad4x4.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=acton&key=4510

Those are fun. I know nothing of caring for brass, but i would think you just let it age gracefully. .22 can have lead fowling that should come out with brushing. Some of the lead removal foams etc can be hard on the finish of the gun.

Moog is out. I have a set of raybestos/ac delco pro waiting to get put in... they have been 100% sofar on the shelf! Haha. Interestingly enough, @Me78569 has had his truck apart and hasnt killed his dana spicers yet, iirc.

Sounds good to me! A few notes... A brush of softer material than the barrel is good. Hence the bronze/brass and plastic brushes. Scrub with cleaner like CLP or hoppes. If possible for rifles, remove the bolt and run all brushes, jags & patches etc from the breech to the bolt. Its easier on things and reduces the risk of damaging the crown. Dont use steel cleaning rods or dirty and gritty rods, as they will damage the throat in the chamber or crown at the end of the barrel. This is why most rods are aluminum. For smokeless ammo, run a brush through with hoppes if really dirty, patch til clean, then oil. You can look down the barrel visually to look for dark spots that show fowling or pitting. I DONT reuse patches on my good guns. Patches are cheap. Soap and water then oil on black powder guns. Finally, i generally wipe down the outside surfaces with a very lightly oiled cloth to remove fingerprints and associated acids and salts... Generally, most guns dont need more than a light oiling. Some, like M1 garands, 1911s, and others like a bit of grease. The old rule is if it rotates, oil it, if it slides, grease it... but most of the time oil will work just fine. Unless its an AR15, then I just wipe the flash hider off and put it back in the safe. I dont clean the M4gery rifles unless they get wet or i am really bored.

I really like that. I want one.

Depends on how tight your needle valve is. I like to see a bump... could be an air or fuel leak if it doesnt build pressure on the initial switch to run. I can hear my pump cycle on and off, i think its normal... but i have never been worried about it. If it bumps when your pump is steady, id look more at pump cavitation. I would open it up, but i like seeing more movement. If it is as tight as you say, the bumps while running are a bit more curious, as they should be evened out by the valve. Do you have a stock in tank pickup?

Oil burn smells bad. Fuel smells like fuel.

Parting the whole truck? Im interested in what bill says.

For your original question, i would measure from frame to hub on each side. There should be some numbers in the chassis manual... i have a copy but im not sute if it is in the downloads. Im guessing that the axle hangs out from the frame equally.

The control arms align the axle perpendicular to the frame and constrain it for and aft. The track bar aligns the axle laterally. The track bar should float. If your axle is out of whack and track bar is solid, it could be any of the 8 control arm bushings, or a bent frame/bracket. It may be adjusted some with the 4 cams, but the main issue i see is the track bar being too short for a levelling kit.

Thermostat is easy to check. Could have some rtv stuck in it.

I am running a similar tire, the LT245/74R17 Toyo AT2. It was the same price as the AT3 and I couldn't find any good Cooper dealers in my local area. AT2 is a good tire, tows great, does good on snow, great on highway, and good on soft stuff. I wouldn't want to hard core mud, but it doesn't give up much to the BFG KOs in that area. My want tire is the Toyo M55, but thats too darn expensive.

Shame you aren't in CO. http://cosprings.craigslist.org/wto/5545846264.html http://cosprings.craigslist.org/wto/5540777444.html

4th gens here. 400 bucks of Craigslist. If you're lucky you can find the 18 inch wheels. Tires are much cheaper and better than the 17s.

I knew it, @Me78569. He doesn't trust us.

Have you fully bled the system? What did the fluid look like? Any solids?

The trick is to take an angle grinder and make a notch to start the cut. Then, use the angle grinder to smooth out the high spots.

Well, if it makes you feel any better, I underthought my 3rd gen track bar bracket. I didn't use a longer bolt and it had too few threads running into my new power steering box. I may have trashed it... I am going to try to save it with a longer bolt, or move up from 9/16 to 5/8s in that hole. If not, my new blue top box is garbage.

I think you're putting too much thought into it. Haha.

Whats the hotshotters cocktail?

Ugly. Id say its rebuild. But, im no expert.

Yoi can see the the angle, it changes more as it is cut. What i want to do is bell the pipe internally, vent it, and make a venturi out of it like the duramax tips... blow any soot away from the vehicle.

Bills was 125 for cut and balance.

Nice. I really like that bracket. Its a lot better than the 3rd gen mount I have.