CSM

I would recommend a set of dynatrac ball joints with 37s. They will make the replacement much easier.

That didn't take long. Hopefully it wasn't too scary.

I am guessing my trucks 2nd or 3rd at 150k or so. My previous truck at 200k had several due to some electrical issues.

I used to live in GJ back in the gas boom days. I still like the slope.

Welcome. I'm a Colorado guy too.

I'm in the same boat, Bill. But I'm in too deep and can't find decent 3rd gens. I kick myself for not buying one.

It does enable it. It is on all the smarty tunes.

My theory... chamber and head gets cold on the long descent down the mountains, and doesn't get warm enough to fully combust. I see cooler than coolant temp coming down hwy14 from walden and it will chuckle a little when I first get back into it.

Mike, I am a Mike also. We should have a Mike convention. -Mike

its amazing how some of these will run smooth... ish until the crank breaks and a rod goes flying. I've seen several Cat 3412s scatter and they usually were precluded by "hey, something sounds a bit funny" followed by a mechanic crawling all over it and saying "eh, it sounds a little rough, but not awful" as it thunders out 2000 hp and "WHAM!" Schrapnel and fire. The crank was in three pieces, four rods were broke, one was outside the engine and parts broke the oil filters on the way out and put oil on the four glowing turbos of the engine beside it. The last one I saw the parts went between the two mechanics standing along side the engine. It is now considered safer to idle things down before looking at them. Here is a pump soon to be in trouble. https://youtu.be/_gH1fzpeMt8

The fuel may be good still... You can check it out at the filter. I am not a 1st gen guy but there should be a drain or at least you should be able to remove the filter and look at the fuel. Diesel doesn't degrade as fast as gasoline and the 1st gens aren't so picky as the new common rails. It very well may start up just fine. i would change the oil before using it a lot or parking it again, as the detergents and whatnot are likely degraded quite a bit. It also might have lost prime in the fuel system, if so you would have to reprime it. I doubt it though. Honestly though, if it were mine, I would probably connect the batteries, smell the fuel, check theoil and fire it up. I would watch for oil pressure to come up within 15sec and then after I get a feel for how it runs (good or bad) I would shut down, change the oil, and move on from there. I take it you aren't in the USA? Got any photos of the truck?

What wheels and tires are you running there, AH64? Nevermind. 245/70R19.5 M608z LRG on Black Vision Type 81 Heavy Haulers with Counteract Balance Beads

http://www.amazon.com/Single-stage-Rotary-Vacuum-R410a-Refrigerant/dp/B00BXMRP4I/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1429844315&sr=1-4&keywords=vacuum+pump http://www.amazon.com/FJC-6905-1-5-Vacuum-Pump/dp/B002DMZA2G/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1429844315&sr=1-6&keywords=vacuum+pump http://www.amazon.com/Robinair-15115-VacuMaster-Single-Vacuum/dp/B005CO9FDW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1429844315&sr=1-1&keywords=vacuum+pump I haven't tried these, but there are a lot of options. Still, its hard to beat free from Auto Zone if you are just doing one vehicle.

I went to auto zone and rented one for free. The cheapest and best reviewed ones I've found were on Amazon Prime for 89 or so for a nice pump.

The factory service manual says to pull the pump on diesels and had the procedure to change the clutch. Gas trucks can get by without pulling the pump. However... due to time I just did the whole pump.

Factory Five daily driver kit car anyone?

I am an H&K guy. I haven't carried any of the above guns. However, my dad carries an LC9 and Glock on occasion. I've shot the rest except for that model of Sig. The LC9 is ok, but will rust requiring a complete disassembly once in a while to get at some of the internal parts when the gun gets sweat on. However, its a great THIN little gun. It is also inexpensive! The Glocks are a bit on the wide side for me, but not bad and I really liked the M&P. M&P and Glock seem to have quite a following as well. For all glocks, I prefer an extended slide release for like $7 or so. Springfield has good customer service, but I am not a big fan of their polymer pistols after my dad having two Springfield XDS pistols with various issues. Granted, my dad shoots a lot, but a new pistol should be able to take 1000 rounds without needing rebuilt. In the end neither gun wouldn't cycle properly and had to go back to Springfield several times for issues. Off the list, I would do the Sig, Glock, or M&P depending on what felt the best in my hand an in my method of carry.

Nice. I really need to do mine.

Between Mikes article and a YouTube video by ericthecarguy or whatever his channel is I got it all done. Thanks for putting the tables for pressures up and the how to info. If anybody needs a good pump with a bad clutch, let me know.. I don't have a use for it and will probably trash it soon.

You can delay and soak the hub for a while in oil. An old trick is to hammer on the outside radius of the upright that the hub bolts into to try to jar it loose, and i mean HARD. This works on ball joints also if a pickle fork isn't enough. Last time I did ball joints, I had to buy one new unit bearing though. It happens. I think Rock Auto has the best price.

Good point. doesn't the articles have a good color coded wiring diagram?

Any discontinuity will be between the areas of high resistance. Basically, we need to find the break and replace that section or fix the discontinuity. you should be able to find the fault/break or area of high resistance with your multimeter. If you run your leads through each combination of the split, you should be able to isolate where the leak is. One lead should be on the sensor end, and then put the other into each individual leg of the split... if they all ohm the same, then the leak should be in the sensor end of the wire. You can also ohm between each leg of the split. I would suspect a break in the wire itself or that a wire has become unhooked in the plug itself. You might be able to disassemble the plug and try fixing it or testing the resistance of the wire alone. What mike is taking about is to take a set of wires and bypass the factory wiring and see if it works, to test the theory that the wire is bad.

Better connection with the contacts perhaps. Either way both measurements are high.

I've never had issues with the OEM grade belts. I've had the high dollar belts come apart though. Your mileage may vary.

Nice. A TDI or a Toyota will likely be my next car purchase if I go the newer route.