Threadzy

I ordered their 7x10 SACS and some head studs. Getting them set at 325 bar. Looking forward to dialing in a new tune.

Thanks! Mine just came in. They are a lot brighter than the silver stars. The true test will be tonight.

I put a 2.5” level in mine a couple years back. The nose of the truck sat a little higher than the back. Of coarse was worse when pulling my trailer. Those were a pita putting them in. I used my air jack to lift the front of the truck. Barley lifted it high enough. I took them out and replaced with a 1” spacer. The front sits slightly lower than the back now. With my Timbrens it sits level with the trailer. Truck handles and drives much better now. I unbolted the sway bar links and unbolted one bolt on each of the upper trailing arms. Made it much easier to remove the 2.5” and reinstall the 1” spacers.

I will be using 4 gauge wire. The 140 amp PDC fuse will no longer be used. Run The 4 gauge lead charge wire through to the 200 amp breaker to the passenger side positive post on the battery. I have an additional 2 gauge welding wire connecting both negative sides of the batteries together. It helps to balance the batteries when charging.

@W-T explains it in his post but the short version is Dodge did a terrible job grounding those wires. I’m still running the 150amp circuit breaker and 6 gauge wire on mine. Just recently adding on board air with my exhaust break with no issues yet but it’s still pretty cool here still. I will probably upgrade to 4 gauge wire and 200 amp breaker for CYA by spring time.

Yes it’s plug and play but as @IBMobile said I highly recommend the W-T mod.

The PAC break computer ties in to the PCM and automatically locks the converter when it turns on. Unless I have it turned off when moving above 25mph as soon as I let off the throttle it activates and locks the converter. It’s made quit the difference in stopping just driving the truck unloaded around town.

It has a billet converter, dynamic valve body and the billet band anchor and strut. Am I missing something?

So far so good. Haven’t noticed any movement but they’ve only been on a few days. They’re a pretty snug fit. Heading out of town Thursday with the trailer to do some camping. The seats do feel more comfortable with the new covers on. It’s only a couple hours drive though. Looking forward to see how she pulls with the new exhaust brake, exhaust system and the Dynamic valve body.

Will do! Ok. Thanks! https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F132474149445

PM’d you. Their not a sponsor so I’m not sure if I can post link.

Out of a 4th gen. Minor work to mount it. If you have a drill motor and bit. Real easy to mount.

Ran around town a little bit today. Seem to stay in place. Time will tell. Gonna let them break in a bit then readjust. It kind of blocks the seat belt from going back in smoothly. Fleabay

Put these in today. So far I like them. Hopefully they hold up!

If I can find one cheap enough I’m contemplating making an Hx35 hybrid like Moparman has. Want to keep my exhaust brake

Well you guys talked me into it. I ordered a Posi Lock. Now if I could only get that axle tube to stop leaking. ?

Ok thanks I’ll give it a try.

Does anyone know the hole diameter and location of the bleeder hole? Mine came with the Allen screw hole but no bleed off hole.

Didn’t like my Quadzilla being hardwired into the battery. Running a 5 amp fuse for it now. If I have to jumpstart anyone I can pull the fuse. Much simpler.

I put mine on the firewall. Hasn’t tripped yet.

I found my Holset HX35 on eBay for pretty cheap with free shipping. Exactly what parts are needed to build an hx35/40 hybrid? Being I already have the hx35.

Thanks! Picked up most of the parts to do this yesterday. Hopefully I can get to it this weekend.

Looking good!

Haha gotcha!

I read through this whole thread and understood a quarter to half of what was explained here. Lol I’m interested. What was the final concenses on the higher pop pressure?