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Don’t quote me but I believe 2000-2002 are year specific. If you still have the original pcm and ecm you need to replace them with the same part number. You should get ahold of@Auto Computer Specialist

I’m not sure. I’ll probably get some dynamate or something similar to put down first. Quiet down the cab a bit. It’s not to bad until I’m towing with overdrive off.

I thought about pulling my carpet out and pressure washing it but it has a hole next to the throttle pedal. Probably just buy a new one. Once it cools off over here.

You have a Quadzilla and you’re running it on level 1? Stock?

No problem. Here are some pics. It’s pretty rough. The compressor bearing is toast. Looks like the wheel cut a groove in the housing. The turbine wheel seems fine. A little play. If you still want it. I’ll be more the happy to ship it to you. I was going to use it for my hybrid build but it was to rough for me personally. It looked better on eBay. ?

I’ve got a used Hx35 I’ll give you. Needs a lot of TLC. Soaked in tranny fluid for awhile to get everything apart. The wastegate diaphragm is toast. I can send you pics if you’re interested.

Looks good!

One of these years you’ll have to have a Moparman meetup. Stereo looks good btw.

I have the MBRP 4” exhaust with the muffler. Sounds great. No drone not to loud. IMHO if you’re not doing a turbo and injectors at the same time I would wait on those and just do the exhaust. A bigger turbo is going to need more fuel to light it. You could do an HX 35 and when you do get bigger injectors you could convert to an Hx35/40 hybrid. Just my .2.

Every truck is different. The XZT has tunes that are “safe” for multiple trucks. It would definitely be better than a stock truck. The Quadzilla V2 allows you to dial in YOUR truck with the upgrades you’ve done. If you change something like injectors or turbo you just modify your tune. You can make multiple tunes. Tow, daily, economy or balls to the wall. You can change timing in .1 degree increments. You can add fuel or pull fuel. All without a download. Making a tune is very easy. I was worried at first about making a tune but there is so much info on here and knowledgeable people that within a short period of time it will be easy. Buy a tune on here to start out with. Then tweak it to your liking.

I’d get ahold of @dieselautopower good injectors at a reasonable price.

I’d talk to @Dynamic a lot of guys on here including myself are running his transmissions or at least his valve body’s.

Ok that makes since. My air dog didn’t come with any of that. I ordered one from glacier for $21. I have 1/4 issues as well. Not as bad as yours. Maybe moving it to the filler neck will help. No foaming and spraying in the basket.

Ok so I need to buy a T 1 1/2” to 3/8”. Air dog sells those I take it? Thanks found the filler adapter on Glacier website.

Sorry not quite understanding what you mean. When I get off work I’ll look at the filler neck. Probably will make since then. Thank you!

Buy a Quadzilla tune it properly and you won’t ever have to worry about Egt’s.

How is it returned into the filler neck? A T put in on the smaller hose on the filler neck? My fuel runs hot to. Pulls and returns in the basket.

That .05 is at the high limit. Do the W-T ground mod then retest. I wouldn’t be surprised if it fixed your lockup issue.

Looks like you guys are have a blast! Beautiful area you’re at. Makes me wanna hookup my trailer and get out of town.

The W-T mod is a must on these trucks.

What is your AC noise reading? Have you done the W-T mod?

On the 98.5- 02 I would see if the wait to start light comes on immediately when the key is turned On. If it does your good. If not the ECM is on its way out or done. Does it fire right up? Or long cranks? Check for blow by through the oil cap. Bump the ignition without starting it but leave the key on does the lift pump run for about 20 seconds? If it doesn’t the injection pump could be short lived. Do all the body lines match up? Check for body repair. IE bondo. Could be hiding a huge rust problem. Are the finders and door gaps equal distance apart from top to bottom? Do the doors close easily? Check the frame for any kinks. Are the tires all wearing evenly? Test drive. This will give indication of a wreck. Does it shift through all the gears properly? Even under a load? Is there a goose neck or fifth wheel hitch? Does the body sag anywhere This will tell you if it towed a lot. Check all the fluids. Ask for receipts for service and repairs. Look under the dash for any shady wire repairs. Same under the hood. Those can cause a lot of heartache. They are good trucks and will last a long time. If they were taken care of but that’s with most vehicles. These are just a few things I check when purchasing a vehicle.

Let us know how the radiator works out

I’d go with the 150. If you ever do any more upgrades you’ll have the fuel to support it. While also keeping the electronics on the VP44 cool. I wish I had gone with the 150. Probably will upgrade mine soon.