Threadzy

I pulled and replaced mine one at a time. Then I did a retorque. Drove it about a month then did another retorque of 130 ft. Lbs. readjusted the valves both times. This was done about a year or so ago with no issues.

Aftermarket will have an Allen screw on the side to control psi to the wastegate. Stock won’t have anything. This is after market.

You will want to keep the adjustable boost elbow on the turbo. Waste gates stock will open at around 20 psi. The adjustable elbow once adjusted properly, depending on what turbo you’re running will keep it closed longer creating more boost to the engine instead of it being blown out the exhaust. For Example the HY35 is out of its map around 30 psi. The HX35 is 35 psi. The Edge and the Quad do nothing to change the ECM’s “tune”. They just recalibrate the information going to the injection pump and boost fool the ECM. Once they are unplugged your back to stock.

Dodge definitely didn’t do any of us a favor when it comes to the electrical systems in our trucks. Thanks for the info!

I’ve got about 1 1/2 year warranty left on my pump. No tap for me. ? my timing reduction was set at 60% and 5 degrees. After adjusting to my new timing values I went back to 50% at 5 degrees. That helped with takeoff to. Had to much retard. Kept my offset the same at 2. My canbus starts at 84. This is my daily tune.

I would stick with mechanical gauges. And yes add the gauges you mentioned. You need to know what fuel pressure your injection pump is receiving. Keeping it about 14 psi keeps the check valve open to help keep the electronics on the injection pump cool. I use isspro EV2 gauges.

After reading your comment on another thread on timing I changed mine around a bit. 13,17,22,26. As you stated. Spools faster and pulls harder with less throttle input. Truck is running really well! I love being about to tweak my tune. My previous timing was 14,18,23,27.

Hello welcome aboard!

Happy birthday!

Would an HY snap ring work? I’ve got two complete hy turbos. My old one and my brother in-laws old one. I’d pull one for you if it would work?

Was that HX to far gone once you got it apart?

Good thing you were around!

Where did you mount the breaker? If it gets to hot from the engine heat. It will cause it to trip. Mine is mounted on the firewall above the PCM.

Do @IBMobile lift pump relay mod. I did. Have you done the W-T ground mod yet?

All my valvetrain is stock. My setup makes a solid 500hp. It’s my DD and tow vehicle. I don’t have it wire tapped being my pump is under warranty for another 1 1/2 years. She still gets up and goes pretty good!

500 hp with the injectors and turbo you have a stock cam will easily work. Probably cheaper too.

Ya it’s a catch 22. The summers here are brutal. Several 100 plus degree days. The older I get the more I hate the heat. The coast averages 70-80 degrees. Just expensive and well if Ca doesn’t flip to red ??don’t think we’ll be staying here. Sad because we’re two hours from the mountains and the coast. I’m sure after the first couple of snow storms I’d be tired of that too! ?

That’s what the wife and I are hoping to wake up to after retirement. Or the beach.

You said your replacing the exhaust? I’d just cut the pipe with a sawzall and pull it and the turbo out together. Then work on it from a bench.

Give DIesel auto power a call.

No. Unplug the field wires. Drive it and see if the trans issue persists.

Sorry should have asked what year. With those injectors and what ever is on your truck should be fine. Assuming it’s stock. J hook or boost elbow will be good for towing.

Hx35.

Did you go through the Quadzilla tuning procedure? Put it in valet mode. Start at say 70%. Stomp it from a dead stop. Does it smoke bad? If yes drop valet one percentage. If no ad one. Once smoke is under control start your fuel curve at that percentage. Then start playing with timing. Don’t use wiretap until you have the canbus fueling dialed in.

When cold and not running should the fan spin easily or with stiffness?