Threadzy

A lot of it depends where you live as well. Someone will probably buy it too. https://fresno.craigslist.org/ctd/d/auburn-1998-dodge-ram-dr-reg-cab-135-in/7336643971.html

A friend of mine used to play bass in the band. I always get a kick out of it.

Hello welcome aboard!

This is the turbine wheel and housing I’m running on my hybrid with my turbo mounted exhaust break. https://www.ebay.com/itm/124046401103

What’s the Quad showing your engine load at idle? 0-2 the pop pressure is more than likely to low. Try moving your timing reduction load to 3 or 4 . I have mine set so it doesn’t drop below 13 degrees. 50% at 3 degrees.

Yes the W-t mod is a must do for these trucks. I did the pcm mod with the 5amp fuse. It blew a couple days later. Replaced it with the 7.5 and for about 2 years no problem but you should try the 5 amp first.

Like the saying goes. If you love what you do you never work a day in your life. You’re still young enough to start over. No telling what else it will lead into. Maybe the next Chip Foose? At the end of the day it’s your call but you’ll never know till you try.

Everyone I’ve seen run that pressure like it. I know I do.

It should run cooler with the DAP nozzles. How much? You’ll have to find out. What pop pressure did you go with?

As @Mopar1973Man has stated. Not running your fuel return into the basket helps because you’re not recycling hot fuel back to the VP44. I would see fuel temps as high as 165 while towing in the summer. Last fall I moved my return to the filler neck. Next month we’re taking the trailer out. Outside temps will more than likely be 100 give or take. With the Quad I will be able to see any difference it made. Maybe splicing into the lift pump power source with a toggle switch or some sort of timer you could have the pump circulate fuel once the truck is shut off? I assume the overflow valve would still work and circulate the fuel if it’s above 14 psi?

Exactly why I’d like to add an additional cooler. I’m not pulling as much weight as you are though... yet!

I just replaced my radiator last Saturday. It wasn’t leaking just buildup inside. It had 271,000 miles on it. Got a new one for $214 OTD. Lifetime warranty. Changed hoses and the thermostat too. CYA for summer towing. Transmission only gets up in temperature in the summer in stop and go traffic and backing it in at home.

Do you have pictures of where you mounted it?

Did you replace the crossover tubes o-rings?

You’re gearing is also hurting you with the 35’s. Like Nick said move your timing bands up some. I would also make sure your timing reduction isn’t taking you below 13*. There’s a fine line between spooling the turbo by pulling timing and wasting most of your power stroke out the tail pipe.

That’s not a bad price at all!

My cooler is working still. Just like the idea it goes in the stock location with supposedly better cooling capabilities.

Anyone running one of these? Are they worth it? https://www.mishimoto.com/dodge-ram-1994-2002-59-cummins-transmission-cooler.html

Will do if and when I have to pull the head. Thanks Mike!

Good to hear! Any pics and specs on those ARP nuts?

Congratulations Mike!

As long as there is no wobble like mentioned above I’d think you’d be fine. Be like running a flex fan with no flex.

Mine has several thousand miles on it to. With the Wix BHAF. Just took this picture. It’s clean.

I have it located next to the PDC with the relay on top of the PDC. Secured with Velcro

My Raptor 100 died not to long ago. Same issue. Popped the fuse on the way to work. I did @IBMobile relay mod before hand. That relay and fuse probably saved my ECM. I went ahead and ordered the 4G 150 kit. Came with a plug and play relay and fuse wiring harness. It’s just sitting on the shelf. I still need to warranty the old pump. I’ll use it as a backup. I’ll see if they’ll let me upgrade to the 4G 150 for a small price.