Threadzy

In my case there was a noticeable difference in launching between 13 and 15 degrees in timing. With my timing reduction settings at 13 it would drop somewhere between high 10’s and 11’s. Now at 15 it will drop to high 12’s. My truck launches much better at 15 than 13. I didn’t notice much difference when I had it set at 13 with reduction set at 3 at 50%. And 15 at 5 at 50%. My fueling is at 100% till around 9 or 10 psi. And maxes at 135. I’d have to open up my iPad to confirm. Never did a mileage check to confirm the two settings. Just going off launches. As far as fueling I figure it’s going to take X amount of fueling to move the truck throughout my travels. I’ve dropped my tire size from 285’s back down to 265’s. Around town I definitely see lower EGT’s. Need to take a ride down the freeway at 55 and 70. Drive and overdrive to see what that looks like now.

This guy had a surging issue with a bad coolant temp sensor. https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads/probably-beating-a-dead-horse-at-this-point-but-heres-a-dead-coolant-temp-sense.2553531/ Your issue does sound like a bad ground.

I ran your same setup for awhile except an auto trans. Ran real good! I would definitely get good gauges. EGT, fuel pressure, and boost. You don’t need the head unit on every time you drive the truck. I only connect mine when I’m playing with the tune or want to check some numbers out. Other than that start and go. I wouldn’t worry about the wiretap feature until you get your base tune dialed in. Here’s something basic you can start with. On level 3. load timing offset 2 Low timing reduction 5 timing scaling 50% Light throttle timing 2 light throttle load 30% Timing scale 15,19,23,27, 29 Mike starts his on 13 with a manual. Mine does better at 15. Your canbus could start between 95-98% Which ever has the least amount of smoke with a good take off. From there just add fuel so you have a nice steady pull using the whole throttle pedal. I believe canbus fueling maxes out at 4095 which you can check on the Quad. From what I’ve read most hit that number around 125% of fueling but you can select up to 150%

In Johnny Carson’s voice”I did not know that.”

I have mine set at 350. My driveway is inclined and the entrance isn’t flat to enter. It’s like a half circle and I back in. Park and lock it by the time I get to the front door it shuts off. Along with long hauls with my trailer. Very convenient. The bad part being the first to a drive through and waiting that awkward few seconds for it to shut off so we can hear each other talk through the loudspeaker. I’ve learned on some to pop it in neutral and coast up.

Skimmed right over that. Almost like it’s not boost fooling. I can’t read the boost log on my phone. Maybe @Me78569 can dicifer it.

What turbo are you running? Is it gated? If it is it’s sounding like it’s opening up.

Any upgrades?

In the 4-5 years I’ve owned my truck. Bone stock with HY35. Was a dog and ran hot. Traced it down to a stuck open wastegate. Found a power puck ran better. Installed a boost fooler and rigged up a spring system on the turbo for more boost. Ran better. Next upgraded to an HX35 with a boost elbow. Ran a little cooler. Picked up some RV275’s and a Quadzilla. That had been the biggest upgrade performance wise. Played with my tune from reading on this site. Read through everything Quad wise. Found some used 7x.009 injectors. Changed my tune accordingly. What a difference! Truck ran a little cooler with much more pulling power. If it ran hot while towing I just pulled some fuel back. Well at that point I got the power bug. Then I pieced together the turbo I have now with the new injectors. Really happy with the setup. Empty or loaded the truck moves! All said and done the Quad made all the changes work with each other. I still tweak with the tune occasionally just because I can. If it doesn’t work just change it back. No wire tap yet. VP warranty is up next May. Is the Quad the fix all cure all? No. Does it make a good setup better? Yes! Just my .02 and with today’s inflation it’s even worth less now.

I have the Retroshop 5000k D2’s. Best lighting upgrade I’ve done. Tried different housing with different bulbs. Same crap view. Some people got lucky with the right combo. Love the D2’s. The only thing I had to do was move the wires around in the factory plug. Low was high and high was low. Shines very well in front and to the sides with an excellent cut off.

I’m extremely happy with mine as well. I got all my parts to build mine from flea bay. Most parts are Turbo lab. I also drilled out the wastegate to 7/8” both sides are gated now. My Pacbrake down pipe is a true 4”. If it was a toy and not my DD and workhorse and had the extra coin I would have gone with a GXE style turbo. I’ve also read the in-line exhaust breaks aren’t as efficient as the turbo mounted.

Couldn’t you mill yours out and buy a 67mm turbine wheel? Or do like I did and buy one milled already with the bigger wheel. Much cheaper. Or am I misunderstanding you?

@Mopar1973Man wouldn’t having a bigger turbine wheel help? Your turbo is 60/60/12?

Dam that’s good Mike! I just ordered some Toyo A/T. Dropping back down to 265/17 from 285/17.

I paid 9k for mine 4 years ago. Probably have put at least another 6k into it. I could sell and make a profit but I’d be out more money to replace it with a comparably equipped truck. It is crazy what they are going for now.

Our temps here in Visalia,Ca are slowly fluctuating to cooler temps. Had mid 80’s temps over the weekend. Mornings are 50’s and 60’s. Gonna hit high 90’s for a couple days this week but go back down. Evenings have been nice. Can actually go outside and enjoy the weather. In the past September has always been a hot month. Temps don’t usually start doing this till about mid October. I’m hoping this is a preview to a wet winter. Fires are burning around us still so we definitely need the rain. My brother in laws folks had to evacuate their home last week. We’re fine done here in the valley just bad air. The cool mornings have helped though.

Here’s a dumb question. By chance is there an exhaust brake on the truck?

I’ve heard good things about both. The 57 is good for 400-450 hp and the 62 is good for 500-550 hp. The 57 will spool up a little faster while the 62 will do better on keeping the EGT’s down. Just my .02. I’d talk to @dieselautopower

Me personally with an auto I’ve tried 13*. Timing reduction 5*@50%. Ran decent enough. At city speeds putting around town when it would shift into 3rd it would lug and jerk when it hit lockup. Timing would drop to like 10-11*. I even played around with %’s and degrees with the timing reduction. I noticed it wasn’t quite as bad if timing wasn’t dropping below 11 degrees. now I start at 15* and 5*@50%. Timing drop to high 12’s to low 13* the lugging is gone. I get a slight back and forth jerk once lockup hits ,billet converter,if I’m below 35mph but nothing like before. The take off is much better. Over all it seems to run much better. Now when I tow I may have to drop it down more. I’ll just tweak my tow tune. That’s just my truck and what it likes. Not saying one way is better than another. That’s the wonderful thing about the Quadzilla!

Here’s a good article I found. They’ve really improved on the panels. https://lifeonroute.com/rv-solar-installation-complete-guide/

I’ve had a solar system with one 100w panel. I want to get it mounted to my travel trailers roof. 2017 Forest river Grey wolf. I want to install everything clean. Meaning nothing hanging over the side. Everything except the panel of course ran through and mounted inside the trailer. Does anyone have pictures of their install and advise on doing this? Later on I will add more panels. Thanks!

Last I heard according to my broker it’s a good idea to stock up on brass and lead

I always try to get some oak every year. Fireplace, backyard get togethers, camping and bbq’n. Good all around wood! No pun intended! 😂

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