Threadzy

Any mods? What are the parameters of your tune?

My VP44 never through a code. The PSG went bad. Wouldn’t start after it hit operating temp. After replacing it the new one was bad without throwing a code as well. Would die when going from reverse to drive. It eventually got so bad it would die while driving when I let off the throttle. Was fun when making a turn with no power steering and brakes. The warrantied one has been flawless over a year now.

Even well over 100 degrees outside my WTS still lights up momentarily. I’m not sure if a faulty apps would cause the engine to die but if the voltage on the apps is randomly fluctuating that’s definitely a problem. When my stock apps went out. All I got was a dead pedal. Have you scanned the truck for codes?

Wire mods you say? So you have done the W-T wire mod? All grounds checked and thoroughly cleaned? I replace my alternator years ago with a Nations. I still had TC lock and unlock issues until I did the W-T wire mod. No problems since. Does the wait to start light come on instantly when the key is turned? The ECM powers the lift pump. So if the ECM is bad that could cause the lift pump to not work. Have you tested the apps with a volt meter to see if it ramps up smoothly when applying throttle? If it needs an apps I would recommend the Timbo’s. A lot of guys on here including myself have them. You can purchase it here on site.

Thanks Mike! Any thoughts on the fuel gauge?

Didn’t you recently have your ECM rebuilt?

I hate to say it but sounds like a bad ECM.

My son just purchased this truck. His first vehicle. Two questions. The transmission shift good until you smash the throttle. You have to let off slightly for it to shift. Is there an adjustment some where on the transmission or a bad solenoid possibly? Next question. When you first turn the key on the fuel gauge pegs back and forth a few times real fast then stays at empty. Is this a bad gauge or sending unit?

😂 no kidding! Most trucks I see with a high price tag from a used car lot say HO. Good ole used car salesmen!

A lot of it depends where you live as well. Someone will probably buy it too. https://fresno.craigslist.org/ctd/d/auburn-1998-dodge-ram-dr-reg-cab-135-in/7336643971.html

A friend of mine used to play bass in the band. I always get a kick out of it.

Hello welcome aboard!

This is the turbine wheel and housing I’m running on my hybrid with my turbo mounted exhaust break. https://www.ebay.com/itm/124046401103

What’s the Quad showing your engine load at idle? 0-2 the pop pressure is more than likely to low. Try moving your timing reduction load to 3 or 4 . I have mine set so it doesn’t drop below 13 degrees. 50% at 3 degrees.

Yes the W-t mod is a must do for these trucks. I did the pcm mod with the 5amp fuse. It blew a couple days later. Replaced it with the 7.5 and for about 2 years no problem but you should try the 5 amp first.

Like the saying goes. If you love what you do you never work a day in your life. You’re still young enough to start over. No telling what else it will lead into. Maybe the next Chip Foose? At the end of the day it’s your call but you’ll never know till you try.

Everyone I’ve seen run that pressure like it. I know I do.

It should run cooler with the DAP nozzles. How much? You’ll have to find out. What pop pressure did you go with?

As @Mopar1973Man has stated. Not running your fuel return into the basket helps because you’re not recycling hot fuel back to the VP44. I would see fuel temps as high as 165 while towing in the summer. Last fall I moved my return to the filler neck. Next month we’re taking the trailer out. Outside temps will more than likely be 100 give or take. With the Quad I will be able to see any difference it made. Maybe splicing into the lift pump power source with a toggle switch or some sort of timer you could have the pump circulate fuel once the truck is shut off? I assume the overflow valve would still work and circulate the fuel if it’s above 14 psi?

Exactly why I’d like to add an additional cooler. I’m not pulling as much weight as you are though... yet!

I just replaced my radiator last Saturday. It wasn’t leaking just buildup inside. It had 271,000 miles on it. Got a new one for $214 OTD. Lifetime warranty. Changed hoses and the thermostat too. CYA for summer towing. Transmission only gets up in temperature in the summer in stop and go traffic and backing it in at home.

Do you have pictures of where you mounted it?

Did you replace the crossover tubes o-rings?

You’re gearing is also hurting you with the 35’s. Like Nick said move your timing bands up some. I would also make sure your timing reduction isn’t taking you below 13*. There’s a fine line between spooling the turbo by pulling timing and wasting most of your power stroke out the tail pipe.

That’s not a bad price at all!