IBMobile

I'd put it in the power steering return line. There's more mechanical movement going on in the steering box so more metal than the hydro boost and if it plugs up you loose power steering and not the brakes.

I've used a plain hitch pin and clip for years with no problems. When you get to the camp site or home take it off an put the pin and hitch away together. They will stay clean, won't rust, and you know where they are. They're also cheaper than a locking style and no nut and bolt to fool with. http://www.walmart.com/search/?query=hich pin

I never use one because 1. it's illegal but seldom enforced to leave a hitch on with nothing attached here in CA, 2. another key I have to keep track of, 3. I also have shine bone trouble with them. 4. the hitch ball gets all rusted and if you grease it see 3.

In 2005 I bought 6- 6 gallon cases from Costco at just over $39/case. I still have 8 gallons left. When you find a good deal stock up if you can because nothing ever costs less. The oils in the back and that's a Jeep 2.5l motor I put together.

Don't for get about insurance on the rig. Since it's not yours, if it get damaged in any way, who pays for it? My auto policy covers any thing I tow, do you have that clause in coverage. What if you forget to secure something in the trailer and it get broken (see JAG1 above)?

HERESY

If the vehicle is used in a reasonable manner IE: daily driver or towing, I'd use the 8.8. If it is subjected to heavy duty use IE: mostly off road driving or snow plowing, I'd use the 10.9. If you just want the added insurance go with the 10.9.

Subjected to enough force an 8.8 will shear also, I've done it. A 10.9 bolt will be about 23% stronger. https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx

Fuel pressure gauge first. Fuel Boss mechanical pump, 3/8" line and stock fuel filter/water separator with edge EZ and it runs just fine.

Thanks for the secret sauce recipe. I'll try it out first and let you know how it goes. Then feed some to JAG1 and crew when we're camping in October. Looks like I'll need a stock pot and paddle with that much sugar and juice.

Old grills are seasoned and give the best taste. I was looking at buying a grill/cooker like the one on the right in your pic. How do you like it?

Sorry to hear you didn't get to finalize the rebuild, so much time and effort. On the other hand you got to see the inner working of the steering box first hand and you gained that much more knowledge. I went from 265 to 245 and haven't noticed any difference other than the speedos off a bit and need to recalibrate it.

But you can't make a camp fire in the room and they're not pet friendly. A lot of times we don't know the area or I'm pulling doubles so we'll pull into a roadside rest area, truck stop or big box shopping area. Dry camp there but no camp fires. K-Mart parking lot, Bishop, CA

Get the vin number then go here to decode it. It might give you a little more info. http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/VIN_decode.htm

Camped here, west of Bridgeport, CA

And it was a good thing I brought my hip waders because the BS was deep and flowed freely from everyone around the campfire. .

A set of these would be cheap I've been using a set of these CEPA tow mirrors for the last 12 years and I tow my 5er with a 14' boat behind it, total length 62'. I haven't had a problem seeing back there. I think they're about $75 for the set. The only down side to them is you have to adjust the mirror a little after taking them off and putting them back on. http://products.cipausa.com/product/cipa-10500-custom-towing-mirrors-dodge/

Somebodies' black Dodge with camp next to my 5er and truck other uses for the back of a truck

Check with your local Snap-On, Mac, Matco or Cornwell tool distributor.

Pressure relief valve sticking in the cylinder and the seal/o-ring between the pump and reservoir body at the fitting you took off that might leak now, warranty the pump.

Move seat(s) forward. Remove two(2) #20 torx screws and inside door pull. remove door panel with a tool like this There is a lot of room for the panel to come off. Take your time, the plastic may be brittle from age.. find the tool here http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/231780888914?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

Did you take this fitting/nut off the back of the body? and this stuff come out

Now this one is doing the same thing? Either the caliper was a bad rebuild and the piston is cocking in the cylinder, the pins the caliper slides on are binding or a hydraulic problem IE: bad hose. I'd jack the front up and compare the left (driver's) side to the right (passenger) side. Spin the wheels first to get a base feel for any resistance. If both turn freely then have some one pump the brake a few times and test. if it spins freely you have a mechanical problem. If it binds open the bleeder screw and release any pressure. If they spin freely you probably have a hydraulic problem. If it's a mechanical problem it may only happen after the brakes get hot as in stop and go driving. The heat causing the metal to expand and bind. Drive the truck and do 7-10 slow downs with out stopping from 30mph to 10mph then as fast as you can jack up the right side an see how much force it take to spin the wheel.

At Amazon I found APPS for as little as $14.20 to $179. Even at $20-$30 it's cheap enough to have one on hand for an emergency brake down. Even if it throws a code you'll get home.. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_3_4?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=apps+sensor+dodge+cummins&sprefix=apps%2Cautomotive%2C242&rh=n%3A15684181%2Ck%3Aapps+sensor+dodge+cummins

How low an RPM do you what to run? Towing at to low an RPM will cause the engine to "lug" and that may cause rod bearing damage. If you're towing a trailer with ST tires the max recommended towing speed is 65mph.