IBMobile

I all ways start out doing it this way↑ and if that doesn't work this way will↓

I know the code here says 'no grading is to be done that will cause water run off on to another parcel' but some code violations the city makes money on and the others are to make you think their doing their job. Years ago a home owner in my neighborhood had a similar problem, back yard flooding, other home owner didn't care, city code people worthless and lawyers trying to suck every dime out of her. Some of us got together one Saturday installed a French drain, trenched a drain line from the back yard to the front, cored under the sidewalk and drained all that water into the street gutter. It was faster than the city hacks and cheaper than an attorney. I hope you get this predicament resolved quickly, inexpensively and with minimum aggravation.

I see what you're saying now but why do you need to delay the fuel pump when staring? I think oldbeek was just putting in a regular fuel pump relay My Fuel Boss didn't come with a relay for the backup pump so I wired it like this.

Permatex® Thread Sealant with PTFE ( #80632) will work just fine and less than $10 at Amazon for a 4oz bottle.

In the above diagram, the fuel pump will only work when the starter motor is being engaged and pin # 85 is energized. What else is energizing pin #85 when the starter motor is not being used? Also the ECM is still powering the fuel pump. The diagram below takes the load off the ECM/ECU and puts it on the battery/alternator.

So 220 ohms at sender and infinity reading at the male connector by the left front wheel well. I'd say you have an open circuit and need to repair/replace a wire or two. I don't know if Larry B's carries it or not but for the price of 4 heat shrink solder sleeve butt connector and a roll of 18-16 gauge wire you could have it fixed.

Since the BK/LT BLU wire was at joint connector #1 in the power distribution center I assumed it was battery voltage. After reading this I took another look at the wire diagrams. Pins 15-18 go to ground and that's why there is no voltage. Sorry, that's what happens when I assume. The voltage does come from the PCM Plug #3 pin #26 dark blue/white wire. I was doing an oil change on the truck today so while I was under there I took some readings at the connector by the left front wheel well. With a 1/4 tank of fuel the sender read 164 ohms between the DK BL/WT and BK/LT BL wires. The BK/LT BL wire that goes to ground showed 6 ohms between the female connector and ground at the battery. The DK BL/WT wire from the PCM showed 11.3 volts with key on.

What a trip, what a story! Love, kindness and good fortune was around every corner. Thank you for sharing.

I replace about one radiator a month. Every one is due to a leak in the area of the radiator where the hot water from the engine comes into it. Either the seal between the aluminum core and plastic side tank is leaking or there is a crack in the side tank. Sometimes the neck for the upper radiator hose snaps off. What I find is the plastic there has thinned out and weakened do to the hot coolant. I cut the side tanks from these radiators before I bring them in to the recycler. The only radiators I've seen with some type of blockage are the old copper/brass type that have a calcium/mineral blockage or plastic/aluminum radiator with some type of sealer (Bars Leak) at the bottom. The biggest problem I find is the ph is to high (8.0 ⇧ base) and causing corrosion in the cooling system, cylinder head, and block.

Voltage comes from PCM plug #3 pin #26 to the sender then to pin #17 of the joint connector at the PDC then goes to ground.

A few people on the Volvo forums are using Rotella in the older (1982-1998) models because of the zinc content.

I did the same when I swapped the seats from left to right.

It's most likely the park switch in the wiper motor is going bad.

I've also been known not to listen to my mom. If I lived close by I'd be happy to do it for you. My work van is all set up for it but the 2day drive would be a bit much.

Like my mom all ways said, "Take time to enjoy life because if you die today they (work) will have somebody in your place tomorrow".

I agree with notlimah. I use to do alignments at a shop for a few years. When the specifications call for a setting in tenths of a degree or inches it's impossible to do with a measuring tape and be right on. You can get it close enough to drive but it still will be way off.

Check this out, may be some info here, Also call a wreaking yard that specializes in trucks, they would know. http://www.ebay.com/itm/94-95-96-97-98-99-00-01-DODGE-RAM-1500-PICKUP-ENGINE-5-9L-8-360-VIN-Z-186334-/162122321630

I can get you a copy of an 01 factory service manual on CD.

Getting to be time for pheasant and dove hunting just north of the Mexican boarder. We walk the farm fields to flush out the birds while the Boarder Patrol goes driving around use to flush out the "undocumented" boarder crossers. Some of my friends have been wanting me to go chucker hunting up near Ridgecrest, CA

Along with everything else

This is my wife's dream kitchen

I've done the same thing. The local Appliance Parts Warehouse wanted all most twice as much for the same part on the internet. Like the difference between Napa and RockAuto price. Needs to be heat resistant to stand up to 500°F.

Nice to have you back.

I agree with leathermaneod, the chrome looks good with black wheels and that is one clean truck!