IBMobile

Sounds like the starter solenoid contacts are going bad. Check out LarryB's http://www.fostertruck.com/auto-starter-parts.html As for the radio, you are going to need a priest to perform an exorcism on it. If I remember right the red wire is switched power and the yellow wire is constant battery power. Check these two and be sure the yellow is not feeding power to the red.

53 block here with just over 91k on it. Edge EZ and towing a 5th wheel most of the time. I think after 17 years if it was going to leak it would have done it by now. I worry more about the APPS or the vp44 going bad than anything else.

Does the timing move, advance/retard, when you insert the jumper into the blue connector and move the ignition distributor? Is the timing now to far advanced or retarded? Does the engine still ping under acceleration?

At 65 Medicare kicks in but you still have to pay some to the Feds for it. I think my wife pays a little over $140/mo. Then there is the part B Insurance that covers what Medicare doesn't. That can run hundreds of dollars a month.

Another thing that come in handy is a length of 16-14 AGW wire 4-5ft long with small alligator clips at each end. This can be used to bypass suspected open circuits, run power to a system or use as and extension of the probes for the meter to a point in a circuit that is not readily accessible.

This is do to 'Global Warming' and is abnormal for this time of year. Freezing/snowing weather is unheard of in the winter. Since it is not warming well call this Climate Change. Live it, Love it, Find a way to tax it. As for San Diego area highs around 70° F and lows 50°F with light rain showers my be on Monday.

Correction: It's 52 degrees F for Southern Californians to start shivering. People start wearing winter coats when it gets below 60° F.

What is this snow and cold you speak of? I just got back from servicing two Volvos while wearing a short sleeve shirt and a pair of shorts. The number of times I've seen it snow at my house---never!

Happy New Year Here are a couple.

If Mopar Mom can withstand 3 mo. of hospital food then she can withstand anything. God bless and better days ahead.

Only if it's installed. It's not mentioned in the original post, only the ECU and the FASS. So, was the relay installed with the FASS?

Install a rely for the fuel pump. The relay will reduce the load on the ECU giving it a longer life along with giving the fuel pump full battery/alternator voltage and amperage it requires.

It's not a question of how long you have them on but how much power you need. How much power does the auxiliary lights demand? It's a 10 amp circuit and lets say the 2 reverse blubs use about 20 watts each this would but a 3.3 amp load on the circuit. this leaves 6.7 amps or 80 watts left to power any extra lighting. When I can I put the switch on the negative side of the load. All of the control units do it this way. Switching takes place after the load so there is no chance of a short circuit and blowing a fuse and there is very little to no spark when switching so the contacts in the switch last longer.

10 gauge wire is good for a 30 amp 110 volt circuit. Those 2-4 gauge wires coming off the battery could be used for an inverter. Popping the fuse indicates an over load on the circuit or a short to ground. If all electrical systems are turned off then then you start it, I think you may have a shorted start circuit.

Something like this with an on demand switch along with the reverse switch to trip the relay. This shows how to wire auxiliary reverse lights but can be modified for what ever you want.

It's the VT/BK (violet/black) wire.

Check this out for Parker 82-Series Push Loc fittings. http://www.hoseandfittingsetc.com/product/fittings/hose-fittings/82-series Some times I put hose clamps on and some times I don't.

bicycle inner tube is a good idea. I've used a dense foam insulation tape. You can get it in different widths and has an adhesive on one side for easy installation.

Not stupid but a man made learning experience.

The ITA sensor is a negative temperature coefficient sensor. There is a resistor in the sensor called a thermistor. The ECM supplies 5.0 volts to the sensor and as the temperature increases the resistance in the thermistor decreases allowing electricity to flow more freely and a higher voltage return to the ECM. The colder the temperature, the higher the resistance, the less voltage return. This change in voltage is used by the ECM to for idle, and injection management. A -40° temperature reading when you know the outside air temperature is warmer indicates a very high resistance, open circuit, and no voltage return to the ECM. Check as above first If no problem found in the connectors/wiring then it may be an intermittent open circuit in the sensor and the sensor needs replacing. All the NTC sensors I've seen go bad have tested opened circuit and read -40°.

There for the educated, well trained people of the German and Japanese Armies in WW II had guns and were not dangerous?

Guns are not dangerous. People with guns are dangerous.

I put some 6x9 in the front doors and I don't get any low end out of them.

Whether you have a full tank, ½ , ¼ or an empty tank sucking up bad stuff is unavoidable because the fuel pickup is on the bottom of the tank. My fuel gauge doesn't start to move from full until the truck has used about 10 gal. When I have ¼ of a tank showing there is about 7-8 gal. left.

Take the time to study. You get only one shot at the semester finals. You can replace the pump any time after the semester. Take Uber to school.