IBMobile

Here's how I installed my switch. Using the momentary switch the torque convertor will lock up in third and will up shift to 4th but will not down shift from 4th to 3ed. By using the two relays the torque convertor will stay locked and with the tap of the brake peddle or pushing the momentary switch will unlock. I have added a head light floor dimmer switch so that it will stay locked up on long down grades while using the breaks. I'm putting together another kit to install and will probably do a wright-up on it then. https://mopar1973man.com/topic/9956-mystery-switch-sets-p0122/

Check the Hydroboost for slow or incomplete pedal return: 1. Run pump at fast idle. 2. Pull the brake pedal rearward with approximately 10 lbs. force and release. Measure the distance to the floorboard. 3. Make 100-lb. brake application. Release brake pedal and measure distance to floorboard. The brake pedal should return to its normal position (step 2). If measurements are the same, go to step 5. 4. If the brake pedal does not return properly, check the pedal to be sure it is operating freely. Correct any sticking or binding as necessary. 5. If brakes are self applying and pedal is free, check for obstruction in the return line or a kinked connection between hydo-boost and pump reservoir. If obstruction or kink is found, go to step 6, otherwise go to step 7. 6. Remove obstruction or replace line as required. If condition remains, check for a damaged reaction end. If damaged the hydo-boost should be replaced or repaired. 7. If brake pedal is free of any binding conditions and return line is free of obstructions, remove the master cylinder cover. 8. Observe the brake fluid in the reservoir while rapidly depressing the brake pedal one inch. 9. Fluid surface should have some movement or spout in the forward reservoir section. Minor spouting may occur in the rearward reservoir. If no movement or spouting of fluid occurs in forward reservoir, the hydro-boost unit is defective and must be replaced or repaired.

May be 9/28/1998 Dodge Ram recall 98V209000 malfunctioning speed sensor caused high idle. Engine control software replaced.

K-12, 6 hours a day, 180 days a year yes there is time to teach newspeak*, thinkspeak*, and double think*. They will sell their soul to the state for a free peace of bread and a bowl of soup and with that are slaves to the system. *1984

Out on the road with no tools it's hard to do diagnostics let alone repairs but if you can get a test light or volt meter..... With the head lights turned on use the 12v test light or volt meter and check for power at the blub. If power then bad blubs. If no power then check out put from terminal 87 of the hi beam relay. If power at terminal 87 then there is an open circuit between relay and blub. If no power at terminal 87 then check for voltage at terminals 86 and 30 of the hi beam relay. Terminal 30 is fused power from battery and 86 should have power when high beam indicator is illuminated.

I think your lower steering column bushing is bad. Check this out for replacement. http://rocksolidramtrucksteering.com/

If you changed the new belt with an old belt and the noise is still there then it's not a belt problem. The pulley is clean and dry of contaminants then I think the pulley may be out of alignment causing added pressure on one side of the belt groves.

I think your central timing module is bad. Get the part number from Dodge incase it superseded then see if you can find a used one on Ebay with that part number. You'll have to reflash your fob to the new (used) CTM. http://www.ebay.com/itm/56045448AD-2001-Dodge-Ram-1500-2500-Body-Control-Central-Timer-Module-BCM-CTM-/252812249103?fits=Year%3A2001|Make%3ADodge|Model%3ARam+2500&hash=item3adcc8c80f:g:u2kAAOSwCU1Yx2Wj&vxp=mtr

Welcome to the group. Nice hood mod and do you have HID blubs?

Truck calls for dot 3 but I've been used dot 4 fluid for the past 6 years with no problems. I wouldn't use dot 5 or 5.1. Is there anything wrong with them? If it ain't brook don't fix it is my policy.

Those tabs get brittle with age and will brake sometimes with the slightest of pressure. When reconnecting along with dielectric grease I'll use a zip-tie to keep them together. Don't know about the tool, I have my on special thingamajig that I use along with four letter word instructions.

If you see an increase that will indicate that the waste gate is opening to soon when the actuator is connected to the boost elbow you have. Factory boost is limited to about 18psi. The boost elbow I have with my Edge EZ will give me a max pressure of 26-27psi and then settle down to 22-24psi.

Have you tried running it with the hose from the boost elbow to the waste gate actuator disconnected? With the waste gate not allowed to open you would see your max boost pressure. If the Edge wasn't boost fooling the check engine light would come on along with defueling.

It would be a good time to adjust the front and rear bands too. The rear band adjustment is only accessible with the pan off. Remember, tighten the bands to 72 inch-pounds NOT foot-pounds, don't over tighten the pan bolts (13 foot-pounds) and let the trans drip for a while before sticking your head under there.

I bought a 10 pack of solar eclipse viewing glasses for people to use.

You might have lost electrical power to a key component. Check connections at the PDC, ECM and injection pump. Also check fuse and relays that power up those systems.

Welcome. I lived in Cumberland, RI for 21 years and get back there once in a while and to see a 16 year old truck from there in the primo condition yours is in is amazing.

Welcome to the group. Nice looking truck you have there.

As long as it reads accurately and has the functions that you need, no need for a high price unit. I have 4 different multi meters, two of them were free and didn't spend over $30 for either of the other two. They all have their pros n' cons. One of the free ones I've used almost daily since 1989.

JAG is posting picture challenged with his Kodak camera and phone

I'd rather hear "you need a root cannel"than "we need to talk". I hope it's not serious.

The expansion valve is by the right battery. The 134A passes through the valve and is now a cold low pressure liquid in that pipe. The foam and aluminum tape are just factory insulation to help keep that liquid 134A cold until it reaches the evaporator and in no way should be use for protection from a vibrating part. Dripley, I like that cradle idea. Did you just rest the filter on the cradle or strap it down to limit the filter's movement?

It's so when it doesn't seal tight anymore the check engine light will come on with a p0455 large leak in fuel evaporative system and you can't just go to your local parts house and get a new gas cap to fix it. It means money for Honda.

I used old heater hose to cover the A/C lines.