IBMobile

Now that's putting some miles on, 40k in just over a year!

redone So the red wire to terminal 86 is powered from fuse B or C in the PDC for the right or left head light respectively. Does the power to terminal 86 stop when the fuse is pulled? The yellow wire to terminal 85 should go to pin 20 in the high beam selector switch via the red/orange wire and is a ground. The black and white wires should be switched. Fused battery power to terminal 30 (black wire) and switched power out of relay through terminal 87 (white wire) to high beam terminals of the blubs.

This is another way of looking at it.

The other day I needed to take an intake manifold off a Volvo and one of the 10mm bolt heads is partway behind a thermostat housing. The distance between the manifold and the housing is about .30". A Snap-on 10mm crows foot is to thick to fit and would have to be ground down. Harbor Freight's 10mm crows foot was .27" thick and came in a seven piece set for $10.

Keep it up you big cluck and this is where you're headed.

I don't think you can cook brake fluid like you can trans fluid and the rubber in the cap is OK. I got the same results in the brake fluid reservoir that you got when steeping on the brake peddle, no fluid movement observed. This is from the FSM page 5-18 CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION Slow Brake Pedal Return 1. Excessive seal friction in booster. 1. Replace booster. 2. Faulty spool valve action. 2. Replace booster. 3. Restriction in booster return hose. 3. Replace hose. 4. Damaged input rod. 4. Replace booster. BOOSTER FUCTION TEST page 5-17 With the engine off depress the brake pedal several times to discharge the accumulator. Then depress the pedal using 40 lbs. of force and start the engine. The brake pedal should fall and then push back against your foot. This indicates the booster is operating properly. I think you have a bad booster and the problem may be the spool valve is binding.

Wire diagram for 2 relay set up?

I'm glade to hear that the damage is not to extensive and may be easily fixed. That's one of the reasons I have a high def dash cam in my work van, see who did what with no he said she said BS.

Where's a good ice age when you need one?

I'm glade you're OK but that sucks. Do you have collision coverage on the truck?

There should be power to terminal 30 of the high beam relay only when low beams are on. When high beam is selected power is sent to terminal 86 and the coil is energized then the power will flow from terminal 30 to 87. When the head lights are turned on and there is power to terminal 87 and not 30 then I think the plug for the relay is is wired backwards.

The valve body needs a simple mod to get it to lock up in 2nd.

Here's how I installed my switch. Using the momentary switch the torque convertor will lock up in third and will up shift to 4th but will not down shift from 4th to 3ed. By using the two relays the torque convertor will stay locked and with the tap of the brake peddle or pushing the momentary switch will unlock. I have added a head light floor dimmer switch so that it will stay locked up on long down grades while using the breaks. I'm putting together another kit to install and will probably do a wright-up on it then. https://mopar1973man.com/topic/9956-mystery-switch-sets-p0122/

Check the Hydroboost for slow or incomplete pedal return: 1. Run pump at fast idle. 2. Pull the brake pedal rearward with approximately 10 lbs. force and release. Measure the distance to the floorboard. 3. Make 100-lb. brake application. Release brake pedal and measure distance to floorboard. The brake pedal should return to its normal position (step 2). If measurements are the same, go to step 5. 4. If the brake pedal does not return properly, check the pedal to be sure it is operating freely. Correct any sticking or binding as necessary. 5. If brakes are self applying and pedal is free, check for obstruction in the return line or a kinked connection between hydo-boost and pump reservoir. If obstruction or kink is found, go to step 6, otherwise go to step 7. 6. Remove obstruction or replace line as required. If condition remains, check for a damaged reaction end. If damaged the hydo-boost should be replaced or repaired. 7. If brake pedal is free of any binding conditions and return line is free of obstructions, remove the master cylinder cover. 8. Observe the brake fluid in the reservoir while rapidly depressing the brake pedal one inch. 9. Fluid surface should have some movement or spout in the forward reservoir section. Minor spouting may occur in the rearward reservoir. If no movement or spouting of fluid occurs in forward reservoir, the hydro-boost unit is defective and must be replaced or repaired.

May be 9/28/1998 Dodge Ram recall 98V209000 malfunctioning speed sensor caused high idle. Engine control software replaced.

K-12, 6 hours a day, 180 days a year yes there is time to teach newspeak*, thinkspeak*, and double think*. They will sell their soul to the state for a free peace of bread and a bowl of soup and with that are slaves to the system. *1984

Out on the road with no tools it's hard to do diagnostics let alone repairs but if you can get a test light or volt meter..... With the head lights turned on use the 12v test light or volt meter and check for power at the blub. If power then bad blubs. If no power then check out put from terminal 87 of the hi beam relay. If power at terminal 87 then there is an open circuit between relay and blub. If no power at terminal 87 then check for voltage at terminals 86 and 30 of the hi beam relay. Terminal 30 is fused power from battery and 86 should have power when high beam indicator is illuminated.

I think your lower steering column bushing is bad. Check this out for replacement. http://rocksolidramtrucksteering.com/

If you changed the new belt with an old belt and the noise is still there then it's not a belt problem. The pulley is clean and dry of contaminants then I think the pulley may be out of alignment causing added pressure on one side of the belt groves.

I think your central timing module is bad. Get the part number from Dodge incase it superseded then see if you can find a used one on Ebay with that part number. You'll have to reflash your fob to the new (used) CTM. http://www.ebay.com/itm/56045448AD-2001-Dodge-Ram-1500-2500-Body-Control-Central-Timer-Module-BCM-CTM-/252812249103?fits=Year%3A2001|Make%3ADodge|Model%3ARam+2500&hash=item3adcc8c80f:g:u2kAAOSwCU1Yx2Wj&vxp=mtr

Welcome to the group. Nice hood mod and do you have HID blubs?

Truck calls for dot 3 but I've been used dot 4 fluid for the past 6 years with no problems. I wouldn't use dot 5 or 5.1. Is there anything wrong with them? If it ain't brook don't fix it is my policy.

Those tabs get brittle with age and will brake sometimes with the slightest of pressure. When reconnecting along with dielectric grease I'll use a zip-tie to keep them together. Don't know about the tool, I have my on special thingamajig that I use along with four letter word instructions.

If you see an increase that will indicate that the waste gate is opening to soon when the actuator is connected to the boost elbow you have. Factory boost is limited to about 18psi. The boost elbow I have with my Edge EZ will give me a max pressure of 26-27psi and then settle down to 22-24psi.