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A good time by screwing around with your truck. If all the other lights are working it is probably a bad weir/connector between the switch and the blub socket or the socket it self. First I would ohm test the light blub. I.ve seen blubs look good but ohm test bad. Next I would check to see if there was voltage at the blub socket. If yes go and ohm test the ground for the blub socket. If no trace the wire back to the connector (junction block). Is there voltage at the connector (junction block) pins C1 C5. If yes repair wire from connector to socket. if no check for voltage at pin 11 in the turn single/hazard switch. Ohm testing blub socket ground. if continuity (0Ω) then see above. If no continuity ( open circuit) then check for broken wire or poor contact at body ground.

While getting my 5er ready for the up coming trip to Catfish Junction I found the AC shroud cracked just about beyond repair and in need of replacement. It has already been partially fiberglassed once and to repair it would coast me as much in matting and resin as it would to replace it. The AC is a Dometic Duo-Therm Brisk Air ,new style, 13500btu. I have found three suppliers of this shroud: 1 Camping World, 2 Icon Direct (thru Amazon), and 3 Dometic ( thru Amazon). My question is: 1 has anyone replaced the shroud on their AC unit, 2 who did you buy it from, and 3 what was the quality of the replacement shroud?

JAG1 no need to wright it down. You can find it in this article.

Their not the same. 99 OEM #56027221AB (DENSO) 136 amp 99 OEM #562839 (BOSCH) 136 amp 01-02 OEM #56027221AD (ALL 5.9L Cummins diesel)

Had my 3ed Carter lift pump go out when pulling my 5er. I watched the fuel pressure gauge go between 0 and 5 psi, mostly at 0, for 300 miles. That was in the fall of 2012. 4 1/2 years later no problems with the VP. If you have another pump put it on, check fuel pressure and go. If the (new) factory pump you have is a Carter the fuel pressure at idle will be around 14-15 psi and wot is about 10 psi.

This is true. The visible smoke test is done with the naked eye no other form of measurement is used. It is subjective to the inspector's eyesight, time of day, and if he's hung over or not. The test allows for a "puff" of smoke during start up and no visible smoke during the rest of the test. This month I had to modify a computer controlled Idle system because the smog tec said the engine was idling to fast at the factory setting 850rpm and should be at 750rpm. That 750rpm is only used for timing adjustment but the tec said 'nope, that's the speed CARB wants'.

I've been thinking about putting the RV275s in my truck. The owner of the SMOG test and repair shop I've been going to has retired so no more brakes on my inspections. I'm concerned there might be smoke when the throttle snap test is done during smog inspection. I don't know about the quad xzt but the Edge EZ is not California Air Resource Board (CARB) approved. I now have to remove it before inspection. If the vehicle is registered in the hinterland of California inspection is only when title is changed but in the metropolitan areas inspection is also every two years.

Find a store like Parker that make can make up hydraulic hoses with fittings. https://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.98bf0856fd643a238c23b35b8320d1ca/?vgnextoid=894fb34395d2b210VgnVCM10000032a71dacRCRD&from=parkerstore&citype=ParkerStore&vgnextfmt=default

Most parts in old trucks are made from unobtainium .

I planed on US 395 in California and over to US 95 through Nevada-Oregon-Idaho.

They just don't make them like they use to.

Maybe this law firm can help. https://www.classaction.com/toyota-oil-consumption-defect/lawsuit/

The extended warranty covered 07-08 RAV4 along with other Toyota models and years. The warranty expired on October 31, 2014. Check the under hood emissions label that shows what engine type the vehicle has, 2AZ-FE. You may want to call a Toyota specialist and see what info they my have for high oil consumsition on your model year.

Toyota 2006-2008 RAV4 with the 2AZ-FE engine has been experiencing high oil consumption due to poor piston rings and there is a service bulletin, T-SB-0094-11, that explains the fix. There are other Toyota models in the 2011 year with the same problem. Toyota is not the only car manufacture to experience this problem. The 2007-2011 Volvo 3.2L engine had the same problem due to poor piston ring material.

I just got of the phone with Judy, a real nice lady, at Catfish RV and confirmed that I have a reservation for site #7. She said that her RV park is full now with 100 RVs and no tent sites available. I'm glade I made that reservation a year ago. There are a couple of places up the road from there that you can dry camp at but I'd get there early because they expect a lot of people to show up for the weekend.

The Gear Vender over/under drive is all most identical to the British made Laycock overdrive used in M G, Triumph, and Volvo motor cars. Over the years I've had the pleasure of rebuilding/replacing this type of overdrive. The biggest problem I found was the bore for the sleeve piston wearing. The sleeve piston is made from hard steel and the bores are machined into the softer metal of the housing. When the pressurized fluid (400-600psi depending on engine type, and 650-700psi for Gear Vender) is routed to the bores it will bypass the o-ring seal on the piston and the cone clutch will not engage. I see that Gear Vender sell them for $3700 plus installation. You can buy a lot of performance upgrades for that kind of money.

Why not do the oil change in a flat parking lot? I've done literally hundreds of oil changes in paring lots (ie: Wal-mart, Safeway, apartments) and on the side of the street. In 23 years of running a mobile maintenance and repair business I've only been told 4 times that I couldn't do that kind of work on the property. Just don't make a mess.

I agree. Adjustable upper ball joints for a camber problem. Those adjusters pictured above are for caster adjustment. Toe adjustment is done with the tie rod.

I have to agree. Any vehicle I've driven/rode in that has Bilstein shocks had a very firm/hard ride. Bilstein shock may be good for the track but not the road. After 93k miles and only paved roads I still have the original shocks on the my truck but the shocks or struts I put on customers' cars are the Monroe Sensa-Trac. They are a gas filled shock that gives a nice ride, are reasonably priced and never had one fail. They are available for the Ram 2500.

I'll bring the tools.

I thought the lift pump relay was the "protection relay"

The ceramic clutch material is much harder than the steel of the pressure plate or flywheel. The difference in the wear between the pressure plate and the flywheel can be directly attributed to the material hardness of the components.

My wife said I could go if after the eclipse I took her to Glacier National Park, Banff and Jasper Canada with a side trip to Yellowstone on the way home.

The hole calls for a tap size of 1/8-27 NPT but what size drill bit are you using. I am seeing drill bit sizes of 21/64 (.328") with reamer, Q (.332") without a reamer, R (.339") straight pipe thread, or 11/32 (.3438). What say you?

Don't forget all the secret words that have to be used.