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Torque convertor lock up clutch slipping.

No more traffic infractions or driving under the influence arrests/accidents. The saving of misery from injury let alone the reduction in deaths incurred is worth the removal of the human factor. Think of it... No more drivers education or driver's license testing needed, A reduced Dept. of Motor Vehicle staff. Attorneys that specialize in driving under the influence and vehicle injury cases will have to find a new area of law to practice. Since no one is driving the revenue stream from fines and fees collected by the county/state for infractions would dry up. We all know that the government can't do with less so the government will come up with new and more creative ways to suck the money out of your pocket. One way, which is being tested in select areas of California, is charge a fee for each mile the vehicle is driven. So are we seeing the beginning of the end of driving a car? No there will still be some around just like the horse and buggy is today. A novelty and nothing more.

I pre treat my work clothing by spraying the 'soiled' spots with GREASE LIGHTNING® . I buy it by the gallon at Home Depot. http://www.greased-lightning.com/Garage/

Blind rivet part no. 34201631. Jeep Cherokee uses them also. Look on Amazon.

Let see if I understand what your saying. When you turn the key you can here the starter solenoid snapping the bendix into the ring gear but the starter motor is not turning the engine over? If this is the case then with fully charged batteries check the cranking voltage with a volt meter when the key is turned to start. The battery voltage should drop to ~11.5V when the starter is running then come back up to a rest voltage of ~12.5V . If there is no drop in voltage then check for a bad/loose connection at the solenoid terminal of the strap that goes into the starter. I have seen the terminal nut that holds the strap/cable to the solenoid come loose. This is not the cable from the battery to the starter. You can test for voltage at that terminal also. If you have voltage there when the key is turned then you have a bad starter. If you have no voltage there with the key turned and the solenoid moving the bendix then the contacts in the solenoid are bad.

Read this wrong and was not thinking about the plug under the bumper in the post above. Mine says Chrysler with 56038066AB beneath it. Amazon has them for $40.14 with free shipping.

Pollak and 13 years old

Used air intake elbow in Ebay $40 and up. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=used+air+duct+2000+Dodge+Ram+2500+Base+5.9L&_vxp=mtr&_osacat=33549&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X94-02+Air+Intake++Elbow+%2C+Box+Cleaner+Pipe+Tube.TRS0&_nkw=94-02+Air+Intake++Elbow+%2C+Box+Cleaner+Pipe+Tube&_sacat=33549 Below is a washable filter verses a BHAF from Amazon, Napa # 6637, $50. I used about a 6" length of 4" diameter white leach field pipe, where there were no holes in it, to attach the air filter to the air intake elbow.

Place a floor jack under the door with a block of pine wood between them. The jack will support the door and the soft pine wood will not mar the bottom of the door. I've done this many times on cars with success.

My A/C switch went out last week. We had some record high temps last week here in the San Diego area where the A/C was needed. O' Reilly has the switch. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/lighting---electrical-16777/switches-16486/a-c-switches-16500/a-c-clutch-cycle-switch-11833/2000/dodge/ram-2500

Part #53030294 Duct, air cleaner to turbo charger https://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=581742&ukey_make=1062&ukey_model=15505&modelYear=2000&ukey_category=20311

I carry in my work van the Stant12270 cooling system pressure tester with the adaptors for different model cars. Amazon has it for $70 and free shipping. You will have to get the adapter that fits your Ford. It my be the Stant12027 http://www.stant.com/files/3514/0979/5293/Pressure_Tester_Adapters.pdf

Sounds like your batteries being weak caused the diodes in the first alternator to start going bad producing high AC voltage. This may be what caused a problem in the ABS controller. ABS problem will need to be checked later. The remanufactured alternators you buy still need to be tested for high AC voltage and with high out put demand due to weak batteries the voltage regulator in the PCM may have gone bad. You're going to have to do some testing of the charging system to see what's up. This article should help. Then test the system for AC voltage. See "Update Alternator Noise testing for Dodge Cummins Trucks" in YouTube.

None that I can think of.

Off topic but that's quite a canoe you've got there. How long is the boat and how much does it weigh with the trailer?

You can also use Rectorseal No5. I keep a can of this in my work van and use it on a variety of applications. You can get it at the Home Dept. https://www.rectorseal.com/web-media/Rectorseal-No5_PDS.pdf https://www.homedepot.com/p/compare/?errorURL=ProductAttributeErrorView&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&prodComp_0=100144191&prodComp_1=100351066&keyword=rectorseal sealant

Mine should be $100 dollar bill green after all the money I've poured into it with more to follow. Little Salmon Campground in Riggins, ID

I love it when I'm towing my 5er. I've been using my switch set up since April 28, 2015 All the time If you were towing with a 5 or 6 speed transmission you wouldn't be power shifting or popping the clutch. This would put undue strain on the driveline components and eventually causing a failure. It stands to reason then that you don't keep the throttle peddle to the floor when up shifting from 3ed to 4th with the torque convertor locked. When I'm towing up a long grade I'll down shift to 3ed, lock out O/D, and lock up the convertor with the momentary switch. When I reach the top of the grade with the convertor still locked I back out of the throttle, up shift to O/D and roll back into the throttle, like shifting a manual. When going down a long steep grade I'll slow down to 50-55 mph then down shift to 3ed and then lock up the convertor with the foot switch option. This will allow me to still use the foot brakes with out the convertor becoming unlocked. Once at the bottom of the grade I'll unlock the convertor, up shift to O/D and relock the convertor with the momentary switch. I don't like going over 55mph in 3ed because the rpm level is high due to the 4.10 rear end.

I know....I know, It's not efficient, heat goes up the chimney, sucks in cold air. etc. but after 44 years, if the lady that cooks my bacon and browns my bread wants a "soothing" fire she gets a soothing fire.

I had my grand kids helping so does this mean I skirted the child labor laws?

Check this out. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/52_transmission-transfer-case/diy-converter-lock-up-with-brake-pedal-release-r536/

I still have over a cord of eucalyptus left from last year that I'm burning. I do it for my wife. She likes to have a fire going in the living room fireplace during the winter months. She says it's soothing. I say it's a lot of work.

Happy New Year I spent the weekend splitting wood so today I have to stack and clean up . I know it's late in the season to be doing this but it's 68°

My son Dynamated his Volvo. He lined the firewall, floor and doors. It did make the ride quieter.