IBMobile

@Dieselfuture I'll be camping near Harlan then then West Des Monies the last week in April so I'll be able to compare

I just did mine yesterday. Took it to the local self car wash. They are set up to clean and recycle the water there. Take your time and let the exhaust cool off. This is so no steam gets into electrical connections and no thermal shock on exhaust manifold and turbo. .If you have a BHAF take it off and cover the turbo intake opening. I used a plastic shopping bag held in place with zip ties. I spray everything with Greased Lightning. Be carful of the cleaner you use because some of them will etch aluminum. If there is a heavy buildup use a stiff brush, one made for cleaning parts, and work the area to loosen the grease/dirt. I start at the top and work down this way the cleaner can drip down on other parts. If your at a car wash set the spray selector to rinse, put the money in and start spraying. I do the bottom of the engine first so there water dripping down and I'm not laying in a puddle of dirty water, You can use a large peace of cardboard to lay on if the ground is wet. Be sure to spray front to back and back to front hitting all surfaces

Which two wires did you jumper together? The BK/WT (black/white) wire, which is the ground for the starter relay and pin #6 C1 at powertrain control module when the transmission is shifted to park or neutral. The BR/LG (brown/light green) wire which has battery voltage from fuse #7. The VT/BK (violet/black) wire goes from the PNP switch to the back up lights and grounds through them to the body. It looks like it would be the BK/WT and VT/BK wires. That would ground the PCM as if in park or neutral and also let you start the engine in any gear negating the park/neutral safety switch.

I was driving around in San Diego yesterday and today and the streets are all pot holed. I went in to another city, Escondido, and the streets there aren't much better. Now, it's not like we have snow and ice to tear them up, just a little rain. The main problem is the politicians spending the gas and car tax money on every pet project but the roads. I'm going to be in Idaho the second week of May. I'll see if the roads got any better or worse since the last time I was there in August.

In 2011 it was $316. The next year with the handicap deduction the fee dropped to $104. This year $98. The state passed a fuel and registration tax increase so this year I'll be paying an additional $25 plus.

And the roads in Idaho are in better shape than CA too.

If you're handicapped California will let you register one commercial vehicle with a handicapped plate and the weight fee is waved. The registration on my truck dropped over $200 a year when I did this.

The only thing the transmission and fuel sender/gauge have in common is the PCM.

For around here. When on a trip: everything everyone above has plus a full set of new hoses, serpentine and fuel boss belts, Timbo APP, OBD 2 code reader, 1/4" drive electric ratchet, 1/2 electric impact gun, soldering gun, wire, connectors, relays, full set of ratcheting metric combination wrenches along with a few other things. A lot of this I carry in the 5er.

This is where it went.

Pull the relay and jumper between where terminal #30 and terminal #87 of the relay would go. This way the fuse is already in the system and no need for a long jumper wire. I generally use a large paper clip as my jumper. If you have a compressor you can use the compressed air to blow the wet area dry to help find the leak.

I just bought one for $5.46. Cheap Thanks

OK, so boost elbows are lame and these work much better. I've never seen one. What are they called? Where do they go? How do they work? Where do you buy them?

Won't Taxachusetts charge some kind of tax when you bring the trailer into the state and register it. I know California would. They did it to me when I moved here from New Hampshire.

I'd get the bigger trailer. Peace of mind knowing that the trailer can handle the load when needed. Think of the extra $1,000 as a one time insurance payment.

It's done the same as the manifold. Right, the curved piece is the bent top of the pyrometer thermocouple. Can't remember why it was drilled on the side but it worked for years. The thermocouple was relocated to the manifold and that fitting is capped.

You can drill and tap the hole if you don't have a welder. I did mine 13 years ago.

No, It's stiff rubber with no give.

How long is a little while. I might just lay it down and strap it in the bed for this next trip. Off topic, I'll be stopping at Moab in April for a few days on my way to Des Moines. Do you know of a good RV campground, with full hook ups, there? I'll be dry camping in Capital Reef National Park for a few days before Moab.

Thanks @Bobalos for the heads up on the tank. Anyone want to buy a never used 14 gallon Flow-O-Go Duramax.

I haven't done my truck yet but you can give them a call, the kit comes with instructions or there is always YouTube. I'm sure someone else on this forum has done one that might help out.

Right now I've been traveling with either one or two 5 gallon fuel containers, depending on where I'm going. I keep them in the bed behind the window and they have never been molested. I just wonder if a fuel caddy would be a more appetizing target.

No problem here. Fastest, easiest way, is to swap out relays but if that doesn't work see above.

I have a 14 gallon Flow-N-Go Duramax that I've never used. Been thinking about putting it in the bed of the truck and using it as a spare tank when I go on long trips.