IBMobile

I left mine empty but like @dripley you can use that empty terminal to power something else now. That terminal is rated for 140 amps so a high amp draw idem can be powered from there.

I might be able to stick around for Saturday. Root beer for the kid.

2 cycle oil in fuel 1:128 Magnifine in line power steering/hydro boost fluid filter ECM protection with fuel pump relay (for backup lift pump) Fuel Boss pump Edge EZ Mystery switch with brake pedal disengagement Electrical system ground modification BHAF with heat shield 4" exhaust RV275 injectors manual boost controller fuel pressure, boost, transmission and exhaust temperature gauges Everything you do to your truck that is not a stock (factory type) replacement or repair is a modification and will void the factory warranty.

It's a Saturday, two man, one 12 pack job.

This may help

That's what I'm running and I'm seeing 30psi by the time the trans does the 3-4 upshift. Please fill out your signature so we can see what equipment your truck has. It will help in evaluating any problems your truck may experience.

I set mine with a lot of threads showing.

I had a 50' roll of 1/4" hose so I ran a line into the cab from the turbo to the controller and back out to the waste gate so I could adjust it on the fly. I made several wide open runs to set it. I tried to set it with air pressure from the compressor but it the valve didn't seam to want to open.

Try not to park the truck in the same place every night. Rodents remember where food and a warm place to nest is and will keep coming back to the same place.

My trip to South Dakota is now complete.

In north San Diego County there are 5 Napa stores owned by the same person. If you need a part they can get it usually the same day but their prices are higher on most things than anyone else and the quality is about the same. There are a lot of wholesale and commercial part suppliers here I'd rather deal with.

I'll be checking the above out before we drive into the Badlands National Park today.

Today getting on I-90 at Chamberlaind, SD after having lunch, the torque convertor would not lock up. I tried to lock it up with the mystery switch but no luck. The trans temp climbing to 190°F, then the convertor locks up. What the heck! No check engine light. I'm thinking either poor connection at transmission, problem with the lock up solenoid, problem in valve body, or problem in the torque convertor.

The morning sky in front of the Iowa state capital 4/25/18

Your socket is going bad. If it was something, like the 'hotwire' red/tan 16 gauge wire going to the plug, grounding the fuse would blow with out anything in the socket.

Yes, that wire from the positive terminal of the left battery to the PDC is where all the power to run the electrical components, except the starter motor, comes through.

I disconnected the grid heaters just before this trip and the coldest start was in Wiggins, CO at 32°F. The engine started up, some white smoke and loopy idle for 20 seconds then every thing was fine.

I don't know . I've never tried that. It would be great if you could an amp meter in line with it and test it that way. It would have to be a meter rated for that big of a load. What is the amp/watt rating of those backup lights?

It was before his beak grew out.

From page 8R-12 of the factory service manual REMOVAL (1) Unlatch and open the hood. (2) Lift the wiper arm far enough to raise the wiper blade off of the glass and permit the wiper arm latch plate to be pulled out to its holding position, then release the arm (Fig. 5). The wiper arm and blade will remain off the glass with the latch in this position. CAUTION: The use of a screwdriver or other prying tool to remove a wiper arm may distort it. This distortion could allow the arm to come off of the wiper pivot during wiper operation, regardless of how carefully it is reinstalled. (3) Using a slight rocking motion, remove the wiper arm pivot end from the wiper pivot

Yes @dripley right about the DBRIII being a dealer item but a good OBDII code reader with live data capability will work along with your volt ohm multimeter .

NO, it can't be that. Haven't you been keeping up with current meteorological trends. It's climate change.

See if this helps. You don't have a DRBIII(R) , your multimeter (VMO) will work. Be careful not to distort the connector terminals when putting pins into them that's why they say to back probe them.

Thank you. It's nice to know there is a helping hand out there if needed. We will be heading north on I-35 then west on I-90 in Minnesota when we leave here.