IBMobile

Do you have an electrical back up fuel pump with that Fuel Boss. If so you could add a fuel line to the system, energize the pump and have it fill 5 gallon fuel cans or stick a hose in to the tank filler neck and siphon it out.

That's the 4th of July. You think some Auto Workers Union wonk is going to be there for less than triple time?

You may need to make your own set up. It would be easy to do with a fuel line T-fitting with an adjustable hobbs pressure switch like the one that is supplied with the Fuel Boss lift pump. This set up is used to turn on and off the back up electric fuel pump and can be adjusted to any pressure you want.. In stall an LED light like the one below in place of the fuel pump. By the way, 10PSI is to low. You want fuel to run through the pump and back to the tank to keep the pump cool. The return line valve doesn't open until 14PSI so you will want to set it for 13PSI.. LED light http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/311818045237 hobbs pressure switch https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=hobbs+pressure+switch

Just what I need

My son planted 5 different varieties of sunflowers

I'd like to help but like KOTOOM I live pretty far away, over 10 hours. If the starter relay socket has power to terminal #30 and the wire from the starter relay socket terminal #87 to the starter motor is good Then this will work in a pinch to get engine started. You will then be able to get it to a repair shop. 1. Make a jumper wire with 3"-5" long 14-12 gauge wire with cover striped from ends about 1/4"-1/2" 2. For safety place the transmission in neutral, apply park brake and block the wheels !! 3. Remove PDC cover and remove starter motor relay. Relay location on inside of PDC cover and in picture below. 4. Turn ignition switch to the on position. 5. Using the jumper wire touch terminals #30 and #87 at the same time. This will be like the start position on the ignition switch and the engine should start. Once the engine starts remove the wire.

That sucks, big time. Why couldn't you break down near New Meadows? I know a guy that would fix you right up. . How fast do you need it fixed? I know another guy that's a mobile mechanic but he's old and slow.

I just go to Google and type in "The chicken man" and up they come. I wish I did Photoshop I'd really have a good time.

What did you expect? United States Forest Service and Cal Fire are government bureaucracies run with government workers spending OPM, other peoples money. I've seen to much waste by government agencies, from school districts to the Feds. On a lighter note: some flowers that my son planted along some of the fence line.

I was called out onetime to get a car started that was in a small field next to Lone Jack rd. Encinitas, CA. When I opened the hood two rabbits jumped out to either side and scared the heck out of me. I found electrical wire and vacuum hose damage. Most of the cars I see having rodent damage are parked out in the country near avocado, lemon and orange groves. They seam to like sparkplug wires and favor any injector or ABS/SRS sensor wiring. I've had a few cats over the years. The vet bills were killing me. May be it would be cheaper to get a chicken

What the heck! Talk about CYA. Weren't the tires and bearings supplied by them when they put the trailer together and covered by warranty..

Your fuel flow back to the tank at 25 PSI should be and the truck not running should be strong. How is the flow at the injection pump? check this out to test your fuel flow. The throttle position sensor, also known as an APPS (accelerator peddle position sensor), can be tested with an OBD II scan tool that can read live data. With live data you can watch the % of throttle opening which should be smooth and not jump when depressing the accelerator peddle. Do you have any codes? The Timbo's APPS for sale in the store here.

Pump manufactures to look for: Electric pumps check out Air Dog and FASS. Mechanical pump is the GDP Fuel Boss. Do not get one of these. I went through three of them before putting a Fuel Boss on.

Before you tow it to the dealer call them and check that they still have a working DRB III scan tool and someone who knows how to use it.

Both my cruise control and HVAC vent control are slow to respond. It started doing that just after I replaced my injectors and had inadvertently knocked the vacuum hose of the pump. Vacuum has been checked with a gauge and pump is drawing good. check valve is good and no leaks found ….yet. I'll probably get on it in the next few days and post what I find.

Sound like your starter motor circuit is looking for a ground. There might be a loose or broken ground cable. Start with checking the battery cable condition both positive and negative at both batteries and the negative cables where they are bolted to the engine.

Right, check not only the ground wire but all the wires for correct connector placement, continuity and short circuits.

Sounds like the ground wire became a fusible link and that it was connected to the constant hot which is protected by a 40 amp fuse. The ground wire might have been smaller than 10 gauge and burned before the fuse could go. It must have melted into the other wires powering them, like brake light and taking out the circuit for the electromagnets on the trailer brakes. I'd be checking on how that trailer was wired. This may help.

Did you smoke the wires on the trailer or the truck? Is it the trailer brakes or the truck brakes that don't work anymore? What happens when " However using a test like everything is hooked up as it should be"?

@Dieselfuture is right that If the PCM control wires are grounded to the body then there is a chance of high electrical resistance from rust, undercoating or paint, in any of the body panel spot weld, bolt or screwed connections. By soldering the splices in the PCM grounding wire and keeping it routed straight to the battery ground, a good electrical bound is formed and 0 electrical resistance . The PCM is mounted on plastic so the outside case is grounded (bonded) to the body (fire wall) with a ground strap.

Yes "ram air" starts to become greater than fan air above 35mph but, when towing an 8K LB 5th wheel, I've also heard the fan clutch cycle on and off while going up long 6% grades while locked up in 3ed. Exhaust temps will climb to 1200°F+ if left in 4th (over drive), in 3ed I can keep it below 1000°F Truck has 245/75-16 tires with a 4:10 rear end

Could-a been worse..... LOL ….. Glad you can see now.

Try Rock Auto for there stabilizer bar (sway bar) parts. They have stabilizer bushings, link rod and hardware parts https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2001,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1366602,suspension. You can also go here to look up needed parts. Stabilizer bar on page 35, figure 2-130. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/part-number-lookup-tool-2nd-gen-24v/2nd-gen-2001-2002-dodge-ram-part-number-lookup-tool-r389/

You want it on the trans side but no need to cut just use a quick splice connector to attache the grounding wire to the lockup wire. You can do something like this or trying to just running the wire through a switch to ground. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/52_transmission-transfer-case/diy-converter-lock-up-with-brake-pedal-release-r536/

The OD switch can be replaced by just using a small pocket screwdriver to pop the old one out, unplugging the two wires to it, plug the wires into the new switch and snap the switch into the end of the shifter. You can get the switch out of a wreaking yard. The same switch is used in ram 1500, 2500, 3500, Durango and Dakota.