IBMobile

Drive around as much as you can with no trailer on and check the fuse regularly to see if it popped. I know it's a PIA but intermittent electrical problems are just that, a major PIA. You'll need to check the fuse before and after hooking up the trailer.

We'll be go right by your house some time around the end of the first or beginning of the second week in May. Right now we're in a beautiful state camp ground in Iowa and should be here for four nights. What a difference towing. With the RV 275 injectors and the manual boost controller there is more than enough power. No more need to floor board the skinny pedal to get on the freeway.

You probably have an intermittent dead short to ground on that circuit for a fuse, especially 40 amp, to blow. Was the trailer connected to the truck when you replaced the battery on the trailer, If it was and the positive cable touched the frame of the trailer that would have done it.

Yes , "tool". Another typo.

Last Saturday night my wife and I started a five week camping trip in our fifth wheel trailer. Tuesday morning we pulled in to Capital Reef National Park, dropped the trailer and did some sight seeing. The road in the park is only about 10 miles and took us 8 hours to see the sights. The next morning we set of for Moab, Utah to see both Arches and Canyonland National Parks. We get to the camp grounds and as I'm unhooking the trailer the check engine light comes on. What the heck! With code reader in hand I find P0336 crankshaft position sensor signal. OK, I had replaced it about 50,000 miles ago and the truck just turned 102,000 miles so my be the life expectancy of that part is 50,000mi so call around and find on at O'Reilly's. Great, I have an account with them. I get it, drop the starter, install it. put everything back together and road test all while the wind is blowing and the temp is 44°F. Everything is great and the next two days are spent touring the National Parks. Friday morning and it's time to leave for Des Moines, IA. I find a water leak in the "basement" of the trailer. What the heck! Lucky for me it's just a drip and it has been collecting in an old dishpan. It's the cold water hose fitting for the out side shower which we never use. I empty the pan then Google RV parts and supply. A few come up in Grand Junction, CO. Great, we're going that way. A few hours later and we pull into Centennial RV. They had the part that I needed and in a few minutes the leak was stopped and we're on the road again. Friday night we pull into Wiggins, CO. and the left propane tank is empty so switch over to the right and every thing is nice. Wake up Saturday morn and it's 42°F in the trailer, 32°F and snowing outside, so turn on the heater. What the heck! NO HEAT. The light on the fridge saying it's not working either. I go out side and check the right gas bottle and it's full so it must be a bad gas regulator. Google RV parts and supply and one come up in Sterling, CO. Great we're going that way. We call Sterling RV Center and yes they have just what we need. One hour later we pull in and there is a new duel tank with auto switch over propane gas regulator waiting for us. I buy it and go down the road to the local Home Depot parking lot and install it. Yes we have heat, hot water, and the fridge is working again. Life is good once more and we're on the road again. Now we're in a truck stop for the night just outside of Lincoln, Nebraska. I wonder if we'll have another what the heck day. With four more weeks to go on this trip I'm sure there will be. IBMobile Capital Reef National Park, Utah

@dripleyis right about the evaporator having a tendency to leak, that's why it's a good idea to replace it when doing a heater core replacement. The front compressor seal is another place to look at for sure but I think you need a special to replace it. When replacing any component on a vehicle this old it's a good idea to replace all the O-rings in the system too. As for using a rebuilt or new compressor for a few dollars more I've all ways have gone with a new one. This may help https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/54_cab-interior/basic-air-condition-repair-r485/

I'm going to keep it as a spare. My tire size is LT 245/75R16 so I'll be fine.

Congratulations! It's a grate place to visit for any occasion. I was there the end of last August through Labor day in September at Tunnel Mountain in Banff and Whistlers in Jasper. When I made my reservations in January the pickings were very slim. You have to keep trying, There may be a cancellation.

I carry a lot of parts and tools with me but two things I know will get the job done, a AAA card with 200 mi. RV towing and a credit card. I'll be going through Banff Canada on my way to the Sierra Nevada Mountains.

My truck with 4:10's gets 14-16 around town, 16-18 freeway and I am an old man. I just put in new RV275 injectors so we'll see if there is any improvement.

Well yes and no. I helped talk him through a complete engine overhaul he was doing on a turbo Volvo. He had the steering gear still in its' shipping box. He said the people that owned the house before him left it when they moved out.

I got the steer box with what looks like the adaptor on it. The price was right, free.

The tag on my factory hitch looks like this hitch type trailer weight tongue weight weight distributing 10,000 lb. 1,000 lb. weight carrying 5.000 lb. 500 lb.

I'm leaving on a 5 week camping trip this Sunday and don't have time to wait. I went to Home Depot and bought a 2 pack for $30 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kidde-1-A-10-B-C-Recreational-Fire-Extinguisher-2-Pack-21027416MTL/303196148

Great minds think alike.

I stalled a set of RV 275 a couple of weeks ago an followed these. There is no need to remove the exhaust rocker arm or the rear bolt for the injector hold down. I put the fuel lines on finger tight then tightened the injector hold down to 89 in-lb then I torqued the fuel lines at the injection pump and the cross over tubes to 28 ft-lb. When I adjusted the valves there were only 2 that were opened 1-2 thousandth of an inch more than specs. There were no tight valves.

I took of the boost elbow off an reinstalled the original fitting. The manual waste gate adjuster is mounted to the battery tray with a cable/hose support clamp and a 6mm X 1.00- 40mm bolt and nut. That mounting point became freed up after I removed the #8 gauge ground wire that was attached there and moved it to the other battery. I order it 3/20 with standard shipping. The confirmation email said I could expect it April 7- May 9. I received it March 28, via air mail. The final, final installation.

Found a 3' length of1/4 silicone wastgate hose from a VW shop here in town. $6.84

A friend of mine came across a brand new, in the box, Borgeson Model #800120 quick ratio steering box. Is it worth getting without the steering column or pump to go with it? Will it work with stock steering column and pump?

Just last week I installed a new PNP (park-neutral-position) switch that was bad right out of the box. It was a good thing I tested it before the job was buttoned up.

Maybe the contacts in the ignition switch behind the key and lock. Next time it happens turn the key slightly counterclockwise and see if the radio or turn signals turn on.

The ground wire that comes from the auxiliary battery negative post clamp and splits in a Y has a connector at the end of each 'leg of the Y'. One leg connected to the ground wire that ran by the alternator, in front of the engine and to the point where the 4 wires spliced on to it. This wire is unplugged from the connector by the auxiliary battery, cut of at the point where the 4 smaller ground wires join it on the left side of the engine and thrown away. The other wire that runs by the air cleaner is the ground for the PCM. This wire run is 2-#14 black/yellow wires from PCM spliced to a #10 black/yellow wire to a connector. This connector joins the other leg of the Y which is spliced to the #8 wire at the auxiliary battery negative clamp. It can be either left plugged into the other leg of the Y connector or you can cut out the connector and Y splice at the battery. Now find where the 2 #14 AWG grounds for the PCM splice into the #10 AWG and cut out the #10 wire. You can now solder the 2 #14 grounds to a new length of #8 AWG and the other end to the #8 at the aux. battery.

Yes it is a Bone creeper. Strip the cover off until you reach the main wire harness, ~ 3-4". Bottom arrow shows the ground wires coming out of the harness. No, there is no inline fuses. It's a mater of personal choice for me. All the Volvos that I work on don't have one as well as any other car that I've owned other than this truck. In over 45 years working on cars I've seen only one moron jump a car backwards. Nothing happened to the alternator but the ignition control module got fried which an alternator fuse would not have helped anyway.

NAPA has it part # EH227 1/4" turbocharger hose H/D truck silicone hose @ $17/ft. This is a special order part and I would need to prepay the whole 50' roll for $850. I think not and will keep looking.

No Just the new ground, #6 AWG cable, to the main, left side battery.