IBMobile

This is the link. The part comes out of Hong Kong. When I ordered it the delivery date was posted to be 3 to 6 weeks, it came in a week. https://m.ebay.ca/itm/Adjustable-Manual-Boost-Controller-MBC-Ball-Spring-for-Turbocharged-Vehicle-O0B6/361900309685?hash=item5442f07cb5:g:HjgAAOSwNnRYmpXx

I just got rid of my boost elbow and installed a manual boost controller recommended by @kzimmer. It's the best $5.46 I ever spent on this truck. Now when I mash down on the go peddle the boost gauge jumps to 26psi, trans shifts up and boost goes to 28psi. When it shifts to 4th, boost hits 30psi and speedo saying 80. No more boost bleed off. There is a lot more room on the adjustment for more boost so how much more boost can I dial in and still be safe?

you can always go up in size but the limitation you will find is the size of the lug for the B+ terminal. I used a #4 lug with a 1/4 screw size hole for that application and had to grind a few thousands off the sides to make it fit in the plastic isolator around the B+ terminal. I think if you go any larger you will be doing a lot more grinding and may compromise the integrity of the lug. I went to the battery shop I have an account with and bought the cable and lugs. The rest of the materials, (solder, heat shrink' cable cover, #12 -1/4 lug, bolt and washer), came out of my supplies, 2' #6 AWG $5.54 2' #4 AWG $5.54 1 #6 -1/4" lug .47 1 #6 -5/16" lug .47 1 #4 -1/4" lug .47 1 #4 -5/16 lug .47 TOTAL 12.96

New gasket equals cheap oil leak insurance.

When I changed my injectors I had both the APPs and VP unplugged. When I started the engine the CEL light was on coding for the APPs and VP. I cleared the codes and then life was good. The only thing I can think of is I turned the ignition on with these things unplugged. If it comes back then do the diagnostics.

@dripleygetting ready for the rain. I finished that grounding/alternator B+ modification that @W-T did the write-up on. First time took a few hours to get everything right but now I could knock that time down to a couple of hours. Cut the grounds here and throw the rest away. #4 gauge wire from alternator B+ to aux battery.

@dripley I'm in the middle of doing this modification right now. I took the old cables out last night and cut, striped and soldered the 4 ground wires into a 12 gauge eyelet that I split open to accommodate all of them. I've made up a 6 ga cable for the ground from the case to the left battery and a 4 ga cable from the alternator to the right side battery. Let me know if you need any in fo on this or what I can do to help. @JAG1will probably want me to do this to his truck next time we go camping.

I made my heat shield setup from heat shield material used between the catalytic converter and car underside of MBZ I found in the salvage yard . Cut it with a cutting wheel on an angle grinder, bent and screwed in to shape. I drilled and mounted it to the studs that hold the air box in.

I'll bring you some along with the relays in May.

Blinker fluid, I've been looking for that stuff all over the place. I didn't know AutoZone had it. I already have the muffler bearings from E-Bay.

The same as the valve cover bolts, 18 ft/lb.

Why yes, from the same guy that told me I had to rotate the winter air in my tires and put summer air in. I don't know how it's going to help. There is a rubber seal keeping the coolant from leaking out and then the sealed bearings. Just having a quality pump, changing the coolant, using distilled water and keeping the ph level around 6-7 and your good to go.

That's the problem! You should have used the best--Krylon--No drips, No runs, No errors. It would have lasted twice as long. My 2000 roof started about the same time but the hood is still good. I live about 30 minuets north of Bobalos and if it's going to rain 1/4 " here they call for a storm watch. I saw a truck with the same paint combo as mine but with the roof painted gloss black. It didn't look bad at all. You can always do what JAG1 did to his hood and have it Rhino Lined®. It doesn't look bad and you don't have to wax it.

I'm looking at the factory wire diagrams and I don't see that black/white wire connected to the battery but as the grounding leg of the solenoid in the starter relay. This is why when you connected the 2 wire together the other wire was the lead (violet/black) to the back up lights and the PCM was grounding through the blubs.

Why is there corrosion around the battery terminals? It's because the seal between the battery post and battery case is bad, The battery gases venting there cause the corrosion.

This is what my radiator looked like before cleaning

My truck and trailers This one was taken last September Below is JAG1 truck camping in the Sierra Nevada mountains. Below is another pic of Mike's truck taken in August at the Eclipse meeting

I buy the cheapest coffee maker WalMart sells. They cost around $12-15 and last 2-3 years making 2-3 pots a day. I rotate the new one to the 5th wheel the old one to the house and the broken one to the trash.

Tapping the BK/WT wire at pin #6 C1 at the PCM, install a switch and running it to ground will do the same thing but the code will still set. What if you put a resistor (33 ohm 1/2 w) in line. This works on the Mystery switch set up to keep the PCM from setting a code.

@Dieselfuture I'll be camping near Harlan then then West Des Monies the last week in April so I'll be able to compare

I just did mine yesterday. Took it to the local self car wash. They are set up to clean and recycle the water there. Take your time and let the exhaust cool off. This is so no steam gets into electrical connections and no thermal shock on exhaust manifold and turbo. .If you have a BHAF take it off and cover the turbo intake opening. I used a plastic shopping bag held in place with zip ties. I spray everything with Greased Lightning. Be carful of the cleaner you use because some of them will etch aluminum. If there is a heavy buildup use a stiff brush, one made for cleaning parts, and work the area to loosen the grease/dirt. I start at the top and work down this way the cleaner can drip down on other parts. If your at a car wash set the spray selector to rinse, put the money in and start spraying. I do the bottom of the engine first so there water dripping down and I'm not laying in a puddle of dirty water, You can use a large peace of cardboard to lay on if the ground is wet. Be sure to spray front to back and back to front hitting all surfaces

Which two wires did you jumper together? The BK/WT (black/white) wire, which is the ground for the starter relay and pin #6 C1 at powertrain control module when the transmission is shifted to park or neutral. The BR/LG (brown/light green) wire which has battery voltage from fuse #7. The VT/BK (violet/black) wire goes from the PNP switch to the back up lights and grounds through them to the body. It looks like it would be the BK/WT and VT/BK wires. That would ground the PCM as if in park or neutral and also let you start the engine in any gear negating the park/neutral safety switch.

I was driving around in San Diego yesterday and today and the streets are all pot holed. I went in to another city, Escondido, and the streets there aren't much better. Now, it's not like we have snow and ice to tear them up, just a little rain. The main problem is the politicians spending the gas and car tax money on every pet project but the roads. I'm going to be in Idaho the second week of May. I'll see if the roads got any better or worse since the last time I was there in August.

In 2011 it was $316. The next year with the handicap deduction the fee dropped to $104. This year $98. The state passed a fuel and registration tax increase so this year I'll be paying an additional $25 plus.

And the roads in Idaho are in better shape than CA too.