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rear tire or driveline? hard to tell? Unbolt drive shaft from rear axle and check the u joints for stiffness or play.

There are several factors in deciding a labor rate that you're paid. Mike has hit on two factors (1) what the local economy can bear and (2) the job time factor. Also, as you said, your skill level is low. Your skill level at this time will limit you in preforming complex repairs. Repair work is rated A, B, C and D. An A rated repair is very complex and requires the most skill, ie: transmission overhaul; and, a D rated repair needs the least amount of skill, ie: oil change. The shop labor rate (for example $160/hr at a Volvo dealership) is based on: what the mechanic is payed, all the hidden federal, state and local payroll / business taxes along with overhead costs and still make a profit. Of that $160/hr, the entry level mechanic at the dealership is paid $20/flat rate hour. So if you are an entry level "independent worker" with no overhead $20-$25/hr is a reasonable rate.

I look in to it a few years back. Some people in Europe were doing it for the VW diesels that had a Bosch VP44 type injection pump but I didn't understand the language nor where they got the new transistors from.

A vehicle with a bad u joint will also have a vibration on hard acceleration and/or with a heavy load. Sometimes a bad u joint will cause a vibration at freeway speed. Can you have someone ride in the bed of the truck and listen while you drive in a parking lot at low speed doing figure eights?

My truck has one. Most of the cars I work on have something similar to it going from behind the bumper to the radiator core support. It is an air guide to direct air over the A/C condenser, radiator and any other heat exchanger there may be out front. It's also used to catch tools and small parts from hitting the ground

Check to see if a wreaking yard has them. They look to be the same for both 2wd and 4wd light and heavy duty 1998-2002 Rams if it's the brake lines from the ABS pump to the junction block. Part #52009390AB left line, #52009399AB right line.

See if this helps

Looking good!! Now you have to cover it with bubble wrap.

No , it shouldn't have come off. I was just flailing around under the hood and knocked it of.

Same thing happened to me when I installed my RV275 injectors. The plastic hose came out of the rubber connector at the vacuum pump. Be carful putting it back in that rubber is old and could tear like mine did then there is a vacuum leak and the vents are slow to respond. I had to replace that rubber fitting with a short piece of rubber hose.

I would be doing it at 8.

There is also another link to rebuild the booster but every time I click on it Cox says they can't find the link. Here it is below. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/33-brake-system/79-brake-hydrobooster-rebuild

Here is an article on the subject.

You need a pair of these.

This article shows how to test it.

You might have been walking home too. Glad nothing got broken and you did alright.

All the wiper transmissions I come across have a plastic bushing in them. Any grease you put in there will dry out in a year or less, collect dust and grit causing a possible premature failure of the wiper transmission. If there was an easy way to get in there to clean and lube it on a regular schedule would be great but it's a PIA to do.

Glad to hear it. So how did you do and give us some numbers?

A PH of 7.0 is water and 7.5 PH is the bottom of the scale for coolant and some would say 8.0. The best is 9-10 and not more than 11.0.

You could add a transmission filter in the power steering return line. This would help keep contaminants from reaching the hydroboost and steering box.

This is from a couple of years ago. The price has gone up 87%.

What brand and where did you get the strainer? The VP44 pump failed electronically, "no communication with ECM", not mechanically due to dirty fuel/poor filtration or lack of fuel pressure.

I've seen, on several vehicles, when the wipers are turned off they just stop and not return to the park position. It has all ways been the park contacts in the wiper motor.