IBMobile

I use a vacuum bleeder and stopped the air sucking by taking the bleed nipple out and wrap the threads with Teflon® tape.

I used one from a Volvo thermostat the other day when I was flushing my cooling system. I bought a bag of them from one of my suppliers for about $1 each. If you want to try one I'll mail it to you.

My trans doesn't have this problem. It could be that your transmission vent is plugged up. When the transmission heats up the air expands and pushes the dip stick out.

I did a trans service last month. I let it sit over night then sucked the trans fluid up through the dip stick tube then dropped the stock pan, more fluid came out. I then did the band adjustments, replaced the filter and refiled it with 7.5 qt.

Go outside and look around. They're out there. I was at the Volvo dealer yesterday complaining about the cost of a battery cable: 2/0 about 14" long with a fusible link at one end, $124. If the front turn signal led blubs in a new Volvo go bad the complete headlight assembly has to be replaced at over $800.

Is that a competent potty trained 2 year old? I made a glue/filler out of broken pieces from an old trailer AC cover that was melted in a jar of acetone. I used this to fix a small crack in the front cover of the 5th wheel. It worked good.

With the cover off this would be a good time to take care of the KDP, Killer Dowel Pin.

If my turbo whistles I wouldn't hear it. I turn my hearing aids off when I drive: this makes my truck nice and quiet.

I've reset my monitors by driving on the freeway at 65mph for 5mi one way and then back home, stop and let engine cool. Do this three times and by the end of the third time the monitors are reset.

Don't put any money into it. You never get it back out.

I can poor oil like that....all over the outside of the engine and none going in.

@Dieselfuture could you please do a wright up about the Ford and top hat seals and put it in the 24valve engine section. The next time some one needs help with seal it will be readily available.

My axle ratio is 4:10 (4.1 turns of the drive shaft to 1 turn of the axle) and my tire size is 245/75R-16 giving me a final ratio of 4:22 which translates into a little higher RPM at cruising speed and a lot of pulling power.

I'm using the Edge EZ with the jumper set on #2 and RV275 injectors with zero smoke problems. I tow an 8,000lb 5th wheel and I don't want to overwhelm the almost stock 47RE transmission with more power.

@rotorhead here you go. It's on page 4 of this long thread.

Cut out the bad section with a mini tube cutter and splice in new tubbing with compression fittings. You can find new brake line repair kits at any auto parts house. Home Depot sells the tube cutter in the plumbing department.

Sorry to hear about the loss of a friend.

The Bosch or mini type relay is common and can be purchased in any auto parts store. Napa relay part #ECH AR272 is ratted for 30 amps and has a resistor suppressor. This is a mini relay with suppressing resistor and mounting tab "Common in" refers to pin #30 where in this case the 12 volt power from the battery comes into the relay.

If Eric at Vulcan doesn't have a wire harness with relay this article might help.

What goes around comes around. This forum is Mike's platform for helping use as a repository of information and a place where we can have our questions answered. Let's help pay it back with a little extra in this months donation. I'm sending the money I saved from not eating chicken nuggets.

Yes...You do

Oil through the push rods are with hydraulic lifters like in GM engines. Below shows the oil flow in the Cummins 5.9L from the FSM.

That's why my run around car is a 95 Volvo wagon. Cheap to keep.

I don't think that's suppose to be there. That may be a hole in an oil galley. It's under higher pressure when the engine is running than the coolant pressure so it pumped the cooling system full of oil. Clean the area real good and see what you have to work with. If you have enough material to work with you could drill and tap and seal with a small NPT plug.