IBMobile

We've seen this problem before; like @dripley said, get rid of the isolator, test alternator ac out put, and do the ground mods. This is cheap and simple before you go dumping a bunch of money chasing the problem. If the AC level is to high it can also take out your ECM, PCM, or the ABS module in due time.

It sounds like you have the common torque converter lock/unlock problem caused by high AC voltage from the alternator. You need to check what the AC voltage is at the B+ terminal at the back of the alternator. It should be .03 volts or less. You might want to do this modification.

The chart for C1 at the PCM doesn't show an orange/black (OR/BK) wire but there is an orange/dark blue (OR/DB) wire at pin #23 used for the throttle position sensor signal. May be this is the wire with the dark blue looking black.

In the PDC remove the fog light relay. With the head light and ignition switches in the off position there should be voltage at terminal #30. With a jumper wire ground terminal #30, the fog lights should come on. Turn the head light switch on and select low beam, there should be battery voltage at terminal #86. Now select high beam, there should be no voltage to terminal #86. With the head light switch and fog light switch both turned on Ohm test terminal #87 then terminal #85, both should have a reading of less than 5 ohms. Terminal #87A doesn't do anything so it is blank.

Almost all the ground wires in the truck are black with orange tracer. The only black/orange (BK/OR) wire to check in the fog light system is the one from the headlamp switch to G201. The other two wires to check are the light blue (LB) from the fog lights to the relay and the brown/yellow from the relay to the headlamp switch. Recheck the wire diagram, if you need to, as to were the wires go.

I have the same problem with the knobs moving to on by just brushing against them. Several times I've smelled gas in the kitchen and found a knob slightly turned on.

I like it and that handle works for me. As for hot tile, I have the same stove but in white and no problem with the heat effecting the cabinets on either side.

Good, a complete constant failure is the best when doing diagnostics on this type of problem.

@98whitelightnin this might help

Yes, but I would look for an open circuit between and including the head light switch to the lights. The ground G201 can still ohm tested when the head light switch is accessed.

Don't worry about where that ground is right now. It's probably good. Not only are the fog lights grounded there but also the: Head lamp switch Cigar lighter Instrument cluster Head lamp beam selector switch A/C heater control Electric brake provision Power outlet Glove box, ash tray and cup holder lights. From joint connector #5 If you had a problem with this ground then these other systems would be effected but run the fog light test as outlined above.

Next time it happens remove the head light switch and ohm test the black/orange wire; it should be close to 0 ohms; if not then you have a bad ground. If the ground tests good then with a jumper wire ground the brown/yellow wire at the head light switch; if the fog lights come on then the switch is bad If they don't come on then remove the fog light relay and ground terminal 30; If they come on then the wires from the relay to lights are good and there is an open circuit between the head light switch and the relay. Ohm test the test the wire from the head light switch to pin #85 and the pin #87; reading should be close to 0 ohms. If not then check for open circuit in the brown/yellow wire. It might be at connector C134 (multipin connector at PDC) or splice S183 (in the PDC).

I'm with @dave110on this. Is this what your looking at? It's #7 in the diagram. https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts-list/1998-dodge-ram-2500-quad-club-cab/service-brakes-rear-height-sensing-system.html?PNC=7

Recharging drained batteries by driving around or idling put a heavy load and strain on the charging system and should be avoided. I don't think you could put a full charge back into the batteries and if the alternator is marginal it could be damaged. The best way is like @Tractorman said "slow charge for several hours".

If you keep replacing the crank sensor and get the same result then it's not the crank sensor. The ECM was good when tested so new sensor and good ECM then may be bad connector/wiring. I would start doing some doing some volt/ohm testing on that circuit. Read this and do the tests then let use know what you find.

I looked at Ford and couldn't see the engine through all that plastic covering it and did not like the idea of the turbo in the back of the engine. Turbo Volvos are like that and are a pia to work on. The GMC/Chevrolet Duramax was to new on the market and one thing I learned being in the car business for over 45 years is Do Not buy any vehicle in the first year or two. The manufacture is still working the bugs out. Opened the hood on a Ram Cummins diesel and I could see the engine, the exhaust manifold with turbo hanging there and the intake system. Not a bunch of plastic covering things to make it look pretty; an engine that had been around for a long time and straight six is easier to work on than a V8.

I went through 3 stock lift pumps in 74,500 miles before I installed a Fuel Boss.

Warranty....you funny. That's a hell of a lot of power to do that. How much?

Good going getting to the bottom of this. Did you wire the ECM to pin 86 of the rely, the relay pin that they said was turned on with the ignition switch, or straight to the fuel pump?

@JAG1I've got half a case of 12 gauge 00 buck and half a case of 12 gauge slugs and a few boxes of #4 and #5 led shot, that is now illegal to hunt with in California, you can use if the neighbors don't mind.

There is a label in the glove box with the vin number and some build info. One piece of info is the differential size. It's faded but I can still read mine.

1.These people are looking at there bottom line. Customer support takes time and time is money. The person giving support has to be trained in all the products as well as what the prducts are going into, more money. They might have used up all the wire harnesses for these trucks and are now putting out a cheaper generic harness. Since these trucks are 16 years or older how many more of these pumps are they going to sell. 2. If the ECM does not 'see' the fuel pump it will set code p0230; there is nothing wrong with your ECM. My truck would set the code p0230 because it has a Fuel Boss pump. To prevent the code the signal from the ECM is used to trigger the relay for my back up pump but the pump is no used by removing its power fuse. 3. I heard that high fuel pressure can cause hard starting but there are some people with fuel pressure over 20 psi with no problems. When my truck starts with the Fuel Boss there is 0 psi. 4. I too live in California and will be looking for those stickers.

@Dynamic Would you be open to people sending their valve body in for modification and if so what would be the approximant cost be?

@Dynamic is the site transmission guru and probably has done it many times. Lets see what he has on it. I did fine this at the Cummins Forum https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-performance-parts-discussion/573451-2nd-gear-lockup-would-nice-can-done.html