IBMobile

They aren't exactly plug in but more like bolt down when you get up in that AMP rating. You will need a fuse holder a fuse a couple of sheet metal screws and appropriate sizes cable lugs. , There are ANL, mini ANL, MEGA, ANN and MIDI type fuses to name a few with their fuse holders. There is also the bolt down fusible link type that is in the PDC. The ANN fuse and ANL fuse look the same but the ANL has a slower blow rate. The mini ANL is about 3/4 of an inch shorter than a full size ANL. The MIDI fuse looks like the ANL. Another good place to find a selection is at Ebay

Another way to test if the power to the ignition switch is from the battery or stray voltage would be to remove the #10 fuse pictured blow. By removing this fuse battery voltage is remover from the switch. If no voltage, present then bad switch. If voltage still present the stray voltage back feeding.

The charts say what color or gauge size wire to use but not the length for an amp rating. For the repair of an existing fusible link use the same size and length. For a new installation GM says to use a 10" and strip back 1/2' at both ends for connection. I think the factory installed fusible link is done because it's cheap and doesn't take up any more room than the wire. It can be a PIA to diagnose an open circuit in it if it's a clean break and replacing one takes several steps and is time consuming. I would install a plug in fuse assembly and not be bothered with a fusible link.

If you do decide that you need a new APPS then get a Timbos. It's easy to change out and set up and the best thing is they're for sale in the forum store.

Here you go. https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/10-Gauge-Fusible-Link-Wire-9-Length-p/a17464.htm

The same one that's used in the 3ed gen trucks, a 10 gauge. If the B+ charge wire has been changed out to the larger #4 then an 8 gauge fusible link is called for.

An electrical fusible link is a type of electrical fuse that is constructed simply with a short piece of wire typically four American wire gauge sizes smaller than the wire that is being protected. For example, an AWG 16 fusible link might be used to protect AWG 12 wiring. Electrical fusible links are common in high-current automotive applications. The wire in an electrical fusible link is encased in high-temperature fire-resistant insulation to reduce hazards when the wire melts. Wikipedia

It looks like the connector and the ground wires at the right battery was recycled and used for the left side ground.

Start here. Try this or the fast way

Was this test done with the key in the on position or off position? If it was done in the off position the light blue (LTBLU) and black with white stripe (BLK/WHT) should not have any power (12V) to them.

It's not the fuel boss causing this problem. P1689 no communication between ECM and VP44 The same thing happened to my truck when the VP44 failed just north of Riggens, ID. It was running, died, started ran then died. Me and @Mopar1973Manreplaced it with a pump from DAP. All has been well since. Check your connections and wiring between the VP44 and ECM. If they are OK then the electronics in the VP44 may be bad. By the way I don't use the electric pump when starting, I have the fuse for it pulled and I have it on a relay .

@Marcus2000monstergood to hear you got it done. Fingers crossed here. If you got good weld penetration it should hold.

You will be eliminating the lock up clutch in the torque converter from the situation' The PCM will still be receiving speed signal from the VSS and in control of the governor solenoid. No , if the VSS was "feeding bad info" The shift points would be of or with no info It would not shift at all. This is not part of the test.

It's a secondary air injection, SMOG, pump check valve. It's used to keep exhaust gas from flowing back to the air injection pump. When the valve fails the exhaust gas in an on demand pump will flow back and overtime ruin the pump.

@notlimah this is to unlock the torque convertor after the PCM commands it locked and the vibration starts This function is the opposite of what a lock up switch does.

No, some people like the turbo sound with the ring left out. Why not start with just a resonator and if still to loud add a muffler.

Higher line pressure means stronger clutch holding power so yes there should be a good lock up. The down side to higher line pressure is a chance of seal/O-ring/gasket leakage. A triple disk converter should have higher line pressure to handle higher torque loads This should be accomplished by the shift kit/valve body mods. Yes. This is the ground wire for the overdrive lock up solenoid and only controls the overdrive lock up. No. This will only open and close the torque converter lock up solenoid ground circuit. No. I don't think that will help. The TV cable can change shift points by changing throttle pressure on the shift valve that the governor pressure has to over come. The transmission output speed sensor sends road speed info to the PCM which sends a duty cycle signal to the governor solenoid. The governor solenoid, by opening and closing, controls pressure to the shift valves. Leave that relay alone, don't remove it.

I replaced mine in September. Printed on the bottom of the thermostat is CALTHERM 190F 3935824 9-99 DOWN so It's a 190°F. I purchased a new thermostat from the Cummins dealer. Part number 3946849, cost $43.99

YES Plug at the ignition switch Battery voltage at: RED, PINK and PINK/BLACK wires. All other wires at switch should have no voltage. Another way to test the system for this type of fault is with an amp draw test. If you don't know how to do an amp draw test YOUTUBE has several videos on how to do this.

Glade to hear that you're bringing it back to a respectable condition. Pictures if you would please. We like to see the transformations.

How about placing a small bottle jack to the bottom side of the mount to help persuade it up.

Ran mine to the dimmer switch and a switched 12 volt source. I can't remember which wire, it was a long time ago. I like to dim the dash lights and gauges for better vision when night driving.

Start with checking stray AC voltage out put from alternator. Then think about doing this.

Weld in a stud then use a nut and washer to hold the sway bar bracket in place. The new bolt I see there is not metric but grade 5 standard.