IBMobile

Use rosin core solder for electrical connections. Acid core is for radiator repair and plumbing.

The wire that smoked, was it yellow with white tracer? If so then that is the power wire for the lift pump from the ECM.

No, that no normal. Is the wait to start light coming on? Do you have any codes?

I've made a grid heater bypass that like the others you can select heaters or no heaters with a switch but the ECM is fooled not to throw code p038 and p0382. The last two weeks have been cold enough here for me to do full testing before it's I release the results.

Right now my 2000 ram with 109k is one of my newer vehicles with the lowest mileage. 1990 Astro van with 334k+ work van 1991 Volvo 940 sedan over 300k 1995 Volvo 940 wagon 186k my daily driver 2001 Volvo S60 sedan 194k 2001 Volvo S80 sedan 170K I installed so many back in the day that I could 'eye ball' it and get it with in a degree or two when checked with a dwell meter. Rule of thumb for single set of points: 8cyl 30°, 6cyl 45°, 4cyl 60° or point gap ~.016". As the points wore and the gap decreased the dwell increased and the timing retarded.

That's as close to stock as you can get. Make sure they are the Bosch RV275 and not some cheap knock off junk. I bought mine from DAP last spring.

The justification is clean, take a deep breath, air and higher, now empty your wallet, transportation costs.

Number of times I've shoveled snow from my driveway NEVER

Yes, disconnect it there by taking the nut off.

The wire, also called "charge cable", that goes from the B+ terminal on the back of the alternator to the PDC, power distribution center, is remover completely from the wire harness. Don't cut it up. You can reuse it as stated above.

Have your old batteries test first to see if new batteries are needed. How is that cable on the truck you're parting out?

The relay is needed if there is an electric lift pump used. The stock system has the ECM powering the lift pump directly. With this mod the power for the pump is drawn from the PDC and not the ECM. I too have a Fuel Boss lift pump and have the electric lift pump disconnected. I only run the electric lift pump to prime the system.

Smoke was coming from exhaust pipe and it was blueish. I think you might have two problems. Blue smoke from the tail pipe is oil being burned in the combustion chamber. The cause of this could be: an over filled crank case, worn valve guide seals, worn or damaged piston rings, problem with the turbo charger. Frist place I would check is the oil level. If oil level is OK then remove the air hose from the turbocharger and check compressor wheel for play or oil. Check the rear of the turbo for oil staining. The other problem is in the fuel system having 0 pressure at times. Start with the electrical test first.

Was it the engine that lost power, where was the smoke coming from and did it smell like burning wires? The Raptor pump may be binding and the amp load is being increased on those small gauge wires that can't handle the increased load. You need to check for 12V at the fuel pump connector when the pressure drops to 0. If no power at the fuel pump then check for power at the ECM 50 pin connector pin #15 and #35. If there is power at the ECM then the fuel pump wire should be ohm tested for continuity from the ECM teminals #15 and #35 to the fuel pump. If no power at the ECM then it may be damaged and will need to be removed and tested. A fuel pump relay should be installed to protect the ECM.

Happy birthday @Russ Roth but you really are a The optometrist has a new eye chart to help with your vision and It's been observed that another hearing test is needed. Enjoy your day!

You need to read this thread. The modification to the A/C switch is in it.

Think of the left and right sides of a vehicle is as you sit behind the steering wheel.

Sounds like losing power to the PDC. How's that cable and connections from the left battery to the PDC?.

In the meantime how about a heater buddy?

They aren't exactly plug in but more like bolt down when you get up in that AMP rating. You will need a fuse holder a fuse a couple of sheet metal screws and appropriate sizes cable lugs. , There are ANL, mini ANL, MEGA, ANN and MIDI type fuses to name a few with their fuse holders. There is also the bolt down fusible link type that is in the PDC. The ANN fuse and ANL fuse look the same but the ANL has a slower blow rate. The mini ANL is about 3/4 of an inch shorter than a full size ANL. The MIDI fuse looks like the ANL. Another good place to find a selection is at Ebay

Another way to test if the power to the ignition switch is from the battery or stray voltage would be to remove the #10 fuse pictured blow. By removing this fuse battery voltage is remover from the switch. If no voltage, present then bad switch. If voltage still present the stray voltage back feeding.

The charts say what color or gauge size wire to use but not the length for an amp rating. For the repair of an existing fusible link use the same size and length. For a new installation GM says to use a 10" and strip back 1/2' at both ends for connection. I think the factory installed fusible link is done because it's cheap and doesn't take up any more room than the wire. It can be a PIA to diagnose an open circuit in it if it's a clean break and replacing one takes several steps and is time consuming. I would install a plug in fuse assembly and not be bothered with a fusible link.

If you do decide that you need a new APPS then get a Timbos. It's easy to change out and set up and the best thing is they're for sale in the forum store.

Here you go. https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/10-Gauge-Fusible-Link-Wire-9-Length-p/a17464.htm

The same one that's used in the 3ed gen trucks, a 10 gauge. If the B+ charge wire has been changed out to the larger #4 then an 8 gauge fusible link is called for.